logsdail or raphael?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AvariceBespoke, Jan 10, 2007.

  1. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Maybe you should track down the dates of his next NY visit and show up to his hotel unannounced.

    I keep doing that, and there's always a window through which he jumps once he sees me.

    One time, when I looked out after he bolted, I could see him in one of his fabulous camel wrap coats, undone and stretched out like a flying squirrel. He was swooping between buildings and in a few seconds, he was gone.

    I then walked down to the Rubinacci flagship store, exchanging only a brief greeting with Tepdoc enroute.

    The Carlyle is a great hotel.


    - B
     


  2. Bird's One View

    Bird's One View Senior member

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    I will right after I get my money back and have my horse take a dump in front of the store.

    Wait...you have a horse?

    This creates a marvelous opening for the TF sales associate.
     


  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    is that your room? quite a collection of action figures u have there sir

    I wish.

    - B
     


  4. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    This creates a marvelous opening for the TF sales associate.

    Frankly, anyone who both maintains a horse in Manhattan and then rides it to stores has my utmost admiration.

    As for the dumping, that is inevitable unless you disequinate your proud animal with one of those diapers.


    - B
     


  5. RJmanbearpig

    RJmanbearpig Senior member

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    Frankly, anyone who both maintains a horse in Manhattan and then rides it to stores has my utmost admiration.

    As for the dumping, that is inevitable unless you disequinate your proud animal with one of those diapers.


    - B


    Great word. By extension, would ed's avatar be said to have been "equinated"?
     


  6. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    that last photo is disturbing. amazing what photoshop can do to the human form.

    Reading over your list of wants/ needs, Brioni wouldn't be a bad bet I guess but the armholes/ lapels may not be as high or the chest as clean as you'd like.

    To me, this list spells maybe Attolini. You might want to check with shopthefinest or the local outpost of attolini in NYC to see what you think. see what ian (shopthefinest)'s return policy is, tho, if you don't care for it (can't imagine you won't, tho). trousers are around 8" to
    8 1/4" at the ankle, if that works for you. try one on at 30 W. 57th street store, i think it is.

    examples (hard to judge based on these photos, but still.....gives an idea)

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Image.a...8/EL8742-1.jpg

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Items/a...%2040%20/%2050
     


  7. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    "equinated"?

    I'm afraid that is really beyond our legal limits. But please look us up in a few years, after we've opened a branch in Amsterdam.
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Great word. By extension, would ed's avatar be said to have been "equinated"?

    Giddy-up!â„¢


    - B
     


  9. RJmanbearpig

    RJmanbearpig Senior member

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    To me, this list spells maybe Attolini. You might want to check with shopthefinest or the local outpost of attolini in NYC to see what you think. see what ian (shopthefinest)'s return policy is, tho, if you don't care for it (can't imagine you won't, tho). trousers are around 8" to
    8 1/4" at the ankle, if that works for you.

    Do you really want to inflict this tool on someone you might do business with?
     


  10. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    that last photo is disturbing. amazing what photoshop can do to the human form.

    Reading over your list of wants/ needs, Brioni wouldn't be a bad bet I guess but the armholes/ lapels may not be as high or the chest as clean as you'd like.

    To me, this list spells maybe Attolini. You might want to check with shopthefinest or the local outpost of attolini in NYC to see what you think. see what ian (shopthefinest)'s return policy is, tho, if you don't care for it (can't imagine you won't, tho). trousers are around 8" to
    8 1/4" at the ankle, if that works for you.

    examples (hard to judge based on these photos, but still.....gives an idea)

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Image.a...8/EL8742-1.jpg

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Items/a...%2040%20/%2050



    wow those are beautiful suits
     


  11. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    that last photo is disturbing. amazing what photoshop can do to the human form.

    Reading over your list of wants/ needs, Brioni wouldn't be a bad bet I guess but the armholes/ lapels may not be as high or the chest as clean as you'd like.

    To me, this list spells maybe Attolini. You might want to check with shopthefinest or the local outpost of attolini in NYC to see what you think. see what ian (shopthefinest)'s return policy is, tho, if you don't care for it (can't imagine you won't, tho). trousers are around 8" to
    8 1/4" at the ankle, if that works for you.

    examples (hard to judge based on these photos, but still.....gives an idea)

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Image.a...8/EL8742-1.jpg

    http://www.shopthefinest.com/Items/a...%2040%20/%2050


    I love Attolini, but I would think the shoulders would not be structured enough for his liking.
     


  12. AvariceBespoke

    AvariceBespoke Senior member

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    I love Attolini, but I would think the shoulders would not be structured enough for his liking.

    the shoulders in that first photo aren't as soft as a lot of italian suits i've seen (at least from what I can see
     


  13. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    No, smartass. They're all different, but in precisely the same way, with blue as the common color and the other colors never repeated between belts. See? I'm perfectly capable of breaking loose every now and then.

    Scary.
     


  14. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    On this question of annoying clients.

    Whether ed meant me or not, I nonetheless am often discussed in such terms on the FNB forum. Without going into specifics (though I might, if anyone has any specific questions), I will make some general comments.

    There is more than one way to be picky. Some allegations of picky are indeed unfair.

    For instance, you ask for a particular detail and don't get it. If you insist on it, is that picky?

    Some things I have let slide. For instance, I like my trousers to have a rear pocket on the right side only, with a cut through buttonhole. I have had this screwed up in various ways: pocket on the left side, two pockets instead of one, flap when not requested, etc. Yet I have never refused to take a pair because of this. I have, however, noted the mistake and asked that future orders be made to my specs. And they have.

    Bigger mistakes: asking for notch and getting peak -- that I would not let slide.

    Now, insisting that it be done right may nonetheless piss off the tailor. It will cost him to get it right. The enlightened thing is to realize that remaking it is A) the right thing to do, and B) a gesture of goodwill that will encourage future orders. But not all tailors see it this way. So they can view your insistence on a "do over" as unreasonable intransigence on your part. Tailors can hold such unreasonable grudges and blame the client for being "picky." But who really is in the wrong here?

    Another definition of picky is to be hyper-critical of every fit detail. Even here there is a sliding scale. For instance, one suit I got from a tailor had several, glaringly obvious fit problems. At first he would not acknowledge them. Then he said they were minor. Then he said he would fix them. He didn't. Then he said, No one is ever 100% so we will do better next time. There was no next time.

    Some can be very minor, but nonetheless real. I had one coat on which the right sleeve pitch was off. At first, the tailor took it and fixed it. It was still off. When I pointed that out, he got testy and denied it, blaming my shirt. It was clear that he was not going to take it back. Since I liked the coat in every other respect, and liked the tailor, I took it and got it fixed elsewhere. His next coat, I note, got the sleeve pitch exactly right on both sleeves.

    A third definition is wanting a great deal of input into the design. Now, some tailors are willing to let the customer have a lot of input, others virtually none, and others some. I have no problem with this, so long as it is made clear up front. What I do find mystifying is why some Internet avengers loudly insist that any client who expects to have any input into the process must be a busybody and impossible. This is bespoke, after all. If a tailor is willing to make changes based on a client's wishes, what business is it of any third party?

    If you find a tailor who's cut is exactly what you want without any changes, then great. Similarly, maybe it's not what you thought you wanted, but once you wear it you realize that you love it. Also great. But if you mostly like it but want a few things changed, and he will do that, that can be great too. Does that make you "picky"?

    The "final frontier" as it were would be to get down into the nitty gritty of pattern drafting. Only one tailor I have worked with allowed this, and I never really delved into to too deeply. I just made a suggestion here or there, and then watched him alter the pattern based on that suggestion. The results were good, more owing to his knowledge than my suggestion. Most tailors, however, would object, and with good reason. I doubt that good results are the norm, and rather suspect that they are rare. No matter what the educated amateur thinks he knows about pattern drafting, the tailor knows more. Moreover, he has a system and body of habits that works for him. Even if you can get him to agree to deviate, you are really just asking for trouble.
     


  15. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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