LEMAIRE

[ambivalence]

For the molded leather goods is not made by ilbusetto anymore

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Brief Q&A with Lemaire and SLT on Bergdorf.

Lemaire at Bergdorf Goodman

Shop Lemaire at Bergdorf Goodman, where you will find free shipping on the latest in fashion from top designers.

www.bergdorfgoodman.com

 

[VinceCompost]

1. It seems like they have been cutting cost on dustbags over the years (On the left is a dustbag from a bag purchased 4 years ago made of luxurious and heavy cotton twill; the dust bag in the middle is made of a thin cotton fabric with polyester filling to add protection. The dust bag on the right is from a FW2020 bag and they ditched the polyester filling and now it feels quite flimsy compared to previous versions, you can probably see how sheer it is.)
View attachment 1558770

2. Their leather bags used to be produced by manufacturers in France/Italy but most have since moved to Spain a few years ago. I am not saying it compromised the quality because Loewe as a famous leather brand produce their stuff in Spain as well. This is just coming from an operating cost POV. Especially when their products' retail prices have gone up quite a bit, I am guessing they are trying to achieve higher margins (not sure if that was related to Uniqlo's investment a while ago and they require a certain level of ROI) or to compensate higher operating expenses while opening new stores across Asia.

Just speculating here. If anyone here works for Lemaire, feel free to chime in.

Thanks for the reply. I have no skin in this game, but:

1. "a thin cotton fabric with polyester filling to add protection" – regardless of what brands may claim, polyester is rarely used for the purpose providing greater durability, but rather to cut costs. Although if anyone is the exception to this, it's probably CL, who does genuinely seem to like polyester (why, I'm not sure: it feels horrible). So the fact that a previous iteration of the bag contained polyester, whereas the more recent one doesn't, probably isn't a sign of declining quality. In any case, this doesn't strike me as especially important issue. It's just a protective bag, and all 3 probably do the job fine.

2. I'm slightly confused here. One the one hand, I do seem to recall Lemaire at one time saying that the bags were made in Tuscany. And I know that Il Busetto are Italian. But their website suggests that they actually make their products in Thailand. Did Il Busetto move manufacturing recently, causing Lemaire to jump ship? If so, this seems misguided. If not actually highly prejudicial; skilled artisans can be found anywhere. With that said, though, if Lemaire dropped Il Busetto due to a shift to Asian manufacturing, this might suggest that they actually care about the quality of the results (or, at least, their perceived quality, due to country of origin).

 

[OccultaVexillum]

I've come around to poly a lot, tbh.
It's not my favourite but I do like the way it can add and maintain structure in things. I'd take a 100% wool gab any day over a wool/poly blend but i'm not turned off by poly.
A lot of great designers use poly pretty extensively fwiw so it's not just a Lemaire thing (eg/ Rei Kuwabo, Luke/Lucie Meier, Junya)

 

[BlakeRVA]

Curious if any of our resident Lemaire experts (calling @OccultaVexillum ) have a guesstimate (or insider knowledge) on how much the shirt on the left will cost? Debating if I should hold out on SS21 drops for it or be disappointed when it's $900.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

I never asked about the Ramirez stuff when i was pre-ordering, other than the scarf.
If I had to guess I think you're probably right to think it's $800.
Just based off last seasons silk Ramirez pieces i'd guess around 600 euro because iirc it's silk and custom print.
@ambivalence might remember or still have access to order sheets.

 

[ambivalence]

@BlakeRVA the shirt retails for about 690eurs.
Printed lightweight cotton.

 

[vanoorttim]

Just checked the website and they have added more SS21 items. I immediately fell in love seeing the drawstring judo pants.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

Judo pants are great. Those are a definite for me.
has anybody checked out the wrap over shirts yet? I’m curious how those run but haven’t seen them anywhere with trustworthy measurements.
all I’ve got so far is the sun hat and beige suede slippers but I feel like I’m about to grab a bunch of things.

 

[OccultaVexillum]

@BlakeRVA Here you go man:

DPTO

A special collaboration with 20th Century Mexican Outsider Artist, Martín Ramírez. This print shirt is made of a cotton fabric with a sheer open weave and a dry touch. It has a loose fit with boxy elbow-length sleeves, a convertible collar, a straight hem with a slightly rounded back. 100%...

dpto.la

This thing bangs:

DPTO

A special collaboration with 20th Century Mexican Outsider Artist, Martín Ramírez. This zipped blouson is made of a light cotton polyamide blend woven. It has a loose fit with dropped shoulders and boxy elbow-length sleeves. 83% Cotton 17% Polyamide One Size Only Piece, Offered in Size Medium.

dpto.la

I had no idea this existed. I wanted the off-white version but scratch that, now i need this one.

 

[BlakeRVA]

Salivating.. need to find Size S! Thanks @OccultaVexillum

 

[worakl]

Judo pants are dope as hell.

 

[ambivalence]

Will send some pics on Monday of the wrapover shirt and judo pants!

 

[Bottari]

First bites of spring with chesterfield coat, detachable sleeves overshirt and ballerinas ( + Casey-Casey trousers )

 

[ambivalence]

Ramirez blouse Top (only comes in small and medium): S
Drawstring Judo pants(hem is not tighten) : XS

when tighten.

wrapover shirt in xs

im usually a xs, 1.72m tall.