Leather jacket - fit and generally designer or dedicated leather company?

[tman87]

Hopefully this is the right area to post. I love leather. I don't get on motorcycles. I've had a polo classic looking leather jacket for 10 years but want something much more fitted. Saw a sale on a polo cafe racer $420 after tax and shipping list price subtotal $650. Fits great generally great reviews but a few reviews questioning the quality of the full grain lambskin leather. 5'11' 160 lbs about a 38" chest slightly broad shoulders this is size medium. Got 90 days to decide. Bottom line with a budget up to $1000 should I be looking at legit leather companies like Schott (like 641), Vanson (model A or B?), Aero (cafe racer or broad race) or Foxcreek (just found out 80 miles from my house) etc in the $650-$950 range or just be happy with this fit. I don't do anything hardcore but love the idea of a leather jacket that breaks in and will last a lifetime...

 

[inspiribomb]

Just stumbled across this post and it inspired me to finally join up. If you want an heirloom-quality piece, I can highly recommend Vanson (Model B) or Schott (641). Both have thick, high-quality leather, get better with age, and will likely outlive you.

 

[Lem87]

First of all, have you researched the fits of each brand? In some cases as a 5"11 160-170 lb range guy you may want to buy a 36/38 rather than a 38/40. If you are going for vanson, you will be dealing with carhartt size shoulders on your jackets and a narrow waist with a tapered back. At your size if you were more on the athletically lean side of 160-170 then I'd say avoid the v cuts and buy a smaller regular fit with longer sleeves and slim but squared cut. Vanson has some nice styles but I'd say your body type is more along the lines of a regular cut jacket fitting better. V cut jackets are for guys who are naturally top heavy with lats that flare already big shoulders out or skinny guys who are trying to fill themselves out with a v cut that makes the chest look wider on someone with a small waist and slim upper body in the smallest extra small they can find. These are traditional riding jackets function of such a jacket is to ride with room for armor and range of motion to hold handlebars. If you have never tried a slim v cut style before, imagine going into a store that sells off the rack suits. If you buy a slim cut jacket, it's going to want to taper as high as your abdomen and bunch out at the chest. The bunching out at the chest in a slim cut blazer would look like awkward creasing over your upper chest in a leather jacket. It is tighter both above and below the same site that would otherwise sit up over your chest instead of being on it where it should be. Smother it as much as you want, it wont go away (Why you see models wearing leather jackets with the coat 2/3rds of the way zipped even though it doesnt flatter either the model's body or the jacket 1 bit) Your lats are going to bulge slightly. It causes the hem to flare out awkwardly where it hits above or at your waist. I'd advise you to try the schott the poster above me mentioned. They fit more along the lines of a regular cut. Also at a budget of $1000 you may also want to go bespoke with brands that offer it. I responded because you and I have similar body measurements. See if vanson can cut closer to your shoulders in a custom jacket if you really like what they have to offer.