Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Any info on what other things would incur an up charge for MTM? Modifications? Materials? Styling?

Well the response was there are charges but no specifics yet. My guess is case by case basis with the amount of handwork (i.e. SpTDs, gimping, seamless styles, etc etc).

Materials.. I do know that most Italians base their charges on material costs. So 25€-50€ is what I encountered on average (topys, metal taps).

As it pertains to special leathers, you pay the cost of the leather..so what he pays you pay.

One thing, this is speculative on my part, he travels to other parts of Asia. He quotes his prices over at the Singaporean shop. He quotes his prices over at the shops he uses for trunk shows in Japan. I'm sure he's concerned that he quotes us prices, it may undercut his business there. Additionally, they also tack on shop prices.

If we can avoid the intermediary, we can pay the absolute minimum. With favorable pricing coming our way as the first clients based in North America. In other words, "grand opening" pricing.

I'm certain if he would make his way back again, we aren't going to see that favorable pricing moving forward. So, my contention is keep him away from an intermediary. Get him while the current US/Canadian demand is low!

I remember when you could get Hiro Yanagimachi MTO shoes for like $1400 bucks. After more people "discovered" his level of work, good luck finding them at that price these days.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Why are you tagging me on this when I am already working under reduced hours T-T

Well I have always been interested in the Caine model from AC, do want to see how he can execute that model

Sorry man but I had to throw you into the mix. I know you appreciate a well made "Italian" shoe just as much as I do. ?

 

[Garcia]

I think your picture looks better than the stock one hahaha.

Threw the stock one in because I think my own photo looks so, so. But there you go : )

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Threw the stock one in because I think my own photo looks so, so. But there you go : )

The reason I prefer yours is because you can see the lines of the shoe better. Especially, the blind welt looks demonstrably more prominent on your photo. The stock photo, while cleaner and clearer, does not do justice to the shoes.

 

[Garcia]

The reason I prefer yours is because you can see the lines of the shoe better. Especially, the blind welt looks demonstrably more prominent on your photo. The stock photo, while cleaner and clearer, does not do justice to the shoes.

Yes, I tried to make something resembling an effort to get the right angle to highlight the lines, curves and overall fantastic work that has gone into these shoes. They also have a very slim and fiddle waste, but thought it best not to include a photo of the sole as it has been walked on.

 

[Stefan88]

Yes, I tried to make something resembling an effort to get the right angle to highlight the lines, curves and overall fantastic work that has gone into these shoes. They also have a very slim and fiddle waste, but thought it best not to include a photo of the sole as it has been walked on.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

View attachment 1402936

Now this stock photo does justice to the shoes ??. Beautiful.
I better get me a pair! Oh wait, I just did ?.

 

[Stefan88]

Now this stock photo does justice to the shoes ??. Beautiful.
I better get me a pair! Oh wait, I just did ?.

Focus was a little off ?

They turned out really great. The heel is marvelous. Waist is awesome. Should've gotten one from the inside too ?

 

[clee1982]

this thread has bad influence written all over it...

must resist...

 

[Crispyj]

Thought I would share who Kenji Kaga thinks is the best shoemaker.

Japanese Domestic Shoemakers:
1. Yohei Fukuda (no surprise here)
2. Marquess by Syouji Kawaguchi
3. I don't remember... (Might've been Ann Bespoke in Osaka, don't quote me on this)

Japanese Italian Shoemakers: (No particular order)
Akira Tani (ex-Stefano Bemer, I really like his derby style, bespoke around 2000 euros as well!)

Orma by Wataru Shimamoto (A bit too elongated for my taste)

Perticone by Seiichi Yoshimoto (Attainable by us mere mortals in NY)

Funnily enough he didn't recommend Il Micio Hidetaka Fukaya when we were chatting. He did shot down some other shoemakers I was tempted to try in Japan that were located more conveniently. Not to say they were bad shoemakers, just not up to par for value. I do think the 3 Italian based Japanese shoemakers Kenji recommended are near the top end for price to craftsmanship since they aren't as well known and are harder to get in touch.

Lot of thanks to @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for baiting in a top Japanese shoemaker to NYC.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Thought I would share who Kenji Kaga thinks is the best shoemaker.

Japanese Domestic Shoemakers:
1. Yohei Fukuda (no surprise here)
2. Marquess by Syouji Kawaguchi
3. I don't remember... (Might've been Ann Bespoke in Osaka, don't quote me on this)

Japanese Italian Shoemakers: (No particular order)
Akira Tani (ex-Stefano Bemer, I really like his derby style, bespoke around 2000 euros as well!)
View attachment 1403114

Orma by Wataru Shimamoto (A bit too elongated for my taste)
View attachment 1403115

Perticone by Seiichi Yoshimoto (Attainable by us mere mortals in NY)

Funnily enough he didn't recommend Il Micio Hidetaka Fukaya when we were chatting. He did shot down some other shoemakers I was tempted to try in Japan that were located more conveniently. Not to say they were bad shoemakers, just not up to par for value. I do think the 3 Italian based Japanese shoemakers Kenji recommended are near the top end for price to craftsmanship since they aren't as well known and are harder to get in touch.

Lot of thanks to @BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes for baiting in a top Japanese shoemaker to NYC.

The first one I tried to bait was Akira Tani actually haha. He said he had enough business on his end, and wasn't ready to expand.

Perticone said the same thing initially. Then he said, well I have always dreamed of visiting New York. That door left ajar is the wrong thing to tell an impetuous shoe wearer because now he's trying to close the door and I have my foot in the way ?.

 

[deez shoes]

The first one I tried to bait was Akira Tani actually haha. He said he had enough business on his end, and wasn't ready to expand.

Perticone said the same thing initially. Then he said, well I have always dreamed of visiting New York. That door left ajar is the wrong thing to tell an impetuous shoe wearer because now he's trying to close the door and I have my foot in the way ?.

Tell him if he comes down we'll personally give him a tour ?

 

[dauster]

Was thinking the same thing good man. A grained loafer for the first one, Bespoke something for the second, unless of course the MTM works out. In which case, may do two of something else.

I am hoping to catch the eye of both @Encore & @dauster who both like Italian shoes and Japanese shoes. Seiichi worked with Cleverley for over a decade, I'm confident he could replicate those shoes as well. At 2500€, so what $1000+ less than GC charges for his Bespoke, hard not to at least raise an eyebrow in curiousity.

Funny you quoted me on this, was looking at the shoes you posted a few days ago and was thinking not for me (not bad either), but there is something missing (elegance, sleekness) that other Japanese bookmakers have perfected. Price is obviously attractive but again I would rather pay more for something else. Curious about the final result though and I am excited for you...

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Funny you quoted me on this, was looking at the shoes you posted a few days ago and was thinking not for me (not bad either), but there is something missing (elegance, sleekness) that other Japanese bookmakers have perfected. Price is obviously attractive but again I would rather pay more for something else. Curious about the final result though and I am excited for you...

He leans more towards the English end of things, so I get where you are coming from. Which is why his style appeals to me. It's easier to wear for my line of work, wardrobe, and body frame.

Which is why ll Micio, or many Japanese artisans, damn near any French maker makes it look like I'm a truck driver wearing ballerina slippers.

 

[clee1982]

Corthay? Berluti?