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Japanese Shoes: Bespoke & RTW Super Thread

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nutcracker, Apr 4, 2013.

  1. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, here it is, finally (or another?), a thread devoted to shoemaking from the Land of the Rising Sun

    Unfortunately there is very limited information in English about the vibrant world of Bespoke shoemaking in Japan. As some of you know, there are quite a few Japanese bespoke shoemakers out there, and for me personally, living in Tokyo has provided me with lotsa eye(shoe)candies

    I've also seen some forum members interested in the RTW brands, what is there, are they good? etc....and not getting answers

    Lets have this thread change that, because honestly, we're missing out on some serious Japanese porn! Discuss and share!

    In order to remove the clout of mystery (frankly from the lack of available information in English), I'll do the honour of listing all the decent Japanese shoemakers RTW and Bespoke that I know.


    List of notable Bespoke Shoemakers in Japan 2013

    Tokyo and Kanto Area

    Marquess (Kawaguchi Shoji): http://marquess-bespoke.blogspot.jp/
    Yohei Fukuda: http://yoheifukuda.jp/
    Benchwork Study (Yukiko Bassett-Okawa): http://www.benchmade.jp/
    o.e. (Egawa Osamu): http://www.h6.dion.ne.jp/~snug/
    Hiro Yanagimachi: http://www.hiroyanagimachi.com/
    Tsukui Reiko (Lecott): http://lecott.blogspot.jp/
    Misawa & Workshop (Misawa Noriyuki): http://www.misawa-and-workshop.com/
    Clematis (Takano Keitaro): http://www.clematis-ginza.com/
    Arai Hiroshi: http://h-arai.com
    Guild of Crafts (Yamaguchi Chihiro): http://www.footwear.co.jp/
    Tetsujiya (Ueda Tetsuji): http://tetsujiya.com/
    Ogasawara Shoes / συναντω: http://sinando.jp/
    Otsuka Shoes: http://www.otsuka-shoe.com/
    Ginza Yoshinoya: http://www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp/
    Saion (Yokoyama Naoto):
    Emori Custom Shoemaker (Emori Daizo): http://web.mac.com/shoemaker_emori/emori/Top.html
    Inamori Kutsuten (Tohohiro Inamori): http://inakutsu.com/
    Le Scarpe Di Cabiria (Wada Yoshiaki): http://www.yo.rim.or.jp/~local/index.html
    Rikhugi (Okubo Takauji): http://bespoker.exblog.jp/
    Shoe Republic (Takayama Junichi): http://shoe-republic.com/
    Furuhata Masahito: http://m-furuhata.com/
    T. Shirakashi (Shirakashi Tetsuya): http://www.shirakashi.jp/index.html
    Takayuki Maruyama Handmade Shoes:
    Cool Strutting (Yokoo Tadashi): http://www.coolstrutting.com
    Anonymous (Akasaka Hidenori): www.anonymous-shoe.com
    REGAL TOKYO: http://www.regal.co.jp/regaltokyo/
    Bottega Tramoda (Okayasu Keisuke): http://bottegatramoda.web.fc2.com/
    TYE Shoemaker (Ohno Tsuyoshi): http://www.tyeshoemaker.com/
    Main D'or (Murata Eiji):
    Ameno Spazio (Nakagaki Tomohiro): http://www.amenospazio.com
    gentille (Endo Koji): http://www.geocities.jp/gentille_79/
    Atelier Matsumoto: http://gguild.s300.xrea.com/matsumotoshoes/


    Nagoya and Central Japan

    Bolero Bespoke Shoe & Bootmaker (Watanabe Tomoyuki): www.boleroshoe.jimdo.com
    Shoes Bonanza: http://shoesbonanza.com/
    Yamazaki Kutsuten: http://www.yamazaki1927.jp
    Nagomigutsu (Ota Katsuhisa): http://katsu-bespoke.com/pg26.html
    KOKON: http://kanazawakokon.com/page3.html


    Osaka, Kyoto, Kobe

    Spigola (Suzuki Koji): http://www.spigola.jp
    Sforzo. Opera (Yoshida Tsutomu): http://www.sforzo-opera.com/
    Ryuta Gutsu: http://ryuta-gutsu.com/
    Atelier Grandpa (Yada Atsuki): http://www.ateliergrandpa.com
    Shoe Scape (Hagihara Hiroyuki): http://shoe-scape.jugem.jp/
    Shoe & Sewn: http://shoe-and-sewn.jp/
    Il Quadrifoglio (Qnai Atsushi): http://ilquadrifoglio.tumblr.com
    Il Vagabundo (Suga Motoji): http://miescarpe.exblog.jp/
    Bonta (Hasegawa Ippei): http://bonta-bonta.com/
    Atsuta Kutsuten (Atsuta Koji):


    KYUSHU

    Corno Blu (Seikaku Yutaka): http://cornoblu.ciao.jp/wordpress/
    Yuki Shirahama Bottier: http://ys-bottier.com/
    Nihil Bespoke Shoe: http://nihil-bs.com
    Matsuda Akinobu
    Yamamura Seikaten (Yamamura Koji): http://www.yamamuraseikaten.com/

    HOKKAIDO

    Cagra: http://www.k5.dion.ne.jp/~cagra/


    OVERSEAS
    Il Micio (Fukaya Hidetaka): @ Florence
    Hayafuji Ryota: @ Munich
    Masaru Okuyama: @ Hong Kong http://www.masaruokuyama.com
    Emiko Matsuda: @ Foster & Sons
    Kuroki Satoshi: @ John Lobb Paris


    Dress Shoe Manufactures (Ready Made)

    Regal Shoes: www.regalshoes.co.jp
    Otsuka Shoes: www.otsuka-shoe.com
    Ginza Yoshinoya: www.ginza-yoshinoya.co.jp
    Miyagi Kogyo: www.miyagikogyo.co.jp
    Scotch Grain: www.scotchgrain.co.jp
    Union Imperial: www.union-royal.jp
    Madras: www.madras.co.jp
    Sanyo Yamacho: www.sanyoyamacho.com
    forme: www.formeofficial.com
    Yoshiharu Hasegawa
    Central Shoes
    Perfetto: www.vinaseiko.com
    Artistocrat: http://www.daiwa-kk.jp
    Chausser: www.chausser.net
    Foot the Coacher: www.galleryofauthentic.jp
    Authentic Shoes & Co.: www.galleryofauthentic.jp
    H? Katsukawa from Tokyo: www.hkatsukawafromtokyo.net
    Hiroshi Tsubouchi: www.id-limited.com
    Pegman: www.lacota.co.jp/pegman
    Hall & Marks (RTW): http://www.footwear.co.jp/
    Corno Blu (RTW): http://cornoblu.ciao.jp/wordpress/
    Spigola (RTW): http://www.spigola.jp
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2013


  2. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Here is a list of Japanese shoemakers with OVERSEAS training, education, and apprenticeship

    Marquess (Kawaguchi Shoji): Tresham Institute>Paul Wilson>Outworker
    Yohei Fukuda: Tresham Institute>Ian Wood>Jason Amesbury>G.J.Cleverley>Outworker
    Benchwork Study (Yukiko Bassett-Okawa): Cordwainer's College>John Lobb St.James
    Yanagimachi Hiro: Cordwainer's College
    Misawa & Workshop (Misawa Noriyuki): Guild > Materna
    Hasegawa Yoshiharu: Cordwainer's College
    Guild of Crafts) Yamaguchi Chihiro: Cordwainer's College>Len Robinson (EG/Trickers)
    Tetsujiya (Ueda Tetsuji): Mannina
    Rikhugi (Okubo Takauji): Cordwainer's College
    Shoe Republic (Takayama Junichi): Tresham Institute
    Furuhata Masahito: Gato>Messina
    Bottega Tramoda (Okayasu Keisuke): Roberto Ugolini
    Spigola (Suzuki Koji): Roberto Ugolini
    Il Quadrifoglio (Qnai Atsushi): Roberto Ugolini
    Corno Blu (Seikaku Yutaka): Roberto Ugolini
    Il Vagabundo (Suga Motoji): Roberto Ugolini
    Yuki Shirahama Bottier: Guild>Spigola>Altan Bottier
    Cool Strutting (Yokoo Tadashi): Cordwainer's College>Guild
    Bonta (Hasegawa Ippei):Silvano Lattanzi>Guild
    Atsuta Kutsuten (Atsuta Koji): Tresham Institute>Frank Harvey>Stefano Bemer
    Ameno Spazio (Nakagaki Tomohiro): Zintala
    Matsuda Akinobu: Roberto Ugolini
    Eiichi Katsukawa: Tresham Institute>Paul Harnden
    Gentile (Endo Koji): Anthony Delos

    Il Micio (Fukaya Hidetaka): Alessandro Stella>Roberto Ugolini
    Hayafuji Ryota: Cordwainer's College>Paul Wilson>Dmitri Gomez
    Emiko Matsuda: Cordwainer's College>Foster & Sons (current)
    Kuroki Satoshi: Cordwainer's College>JL Paris (current)
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013


  3. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A really impressive list. - Obviously a labour of love!
     


  4. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks! not too much work though! a lot of the bespoke makers are mentioned in Japanese forums....just had to dig a bit deeper to find their resume or interviews :fonz:
     


  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Yes Nutcraker! Now we have a real in-depth thread. Thanks for all the work.
     


  6. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    Impressive list NC - be great to kick off this thread with pictures galore from the land of the rising sun...

    I am aware the Japanese are BIG consumers of high end shoes, wasn't aware they're keen
    on the supply side...the list looks more comprehensive than the current British contingent.

    Your list given me a good reason to visit Japan!

    Well Done.
     
    Last edited: Apr 4, 2013


  7. terrorsquad

    terrorsquad Senior member

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    Fantastic list nutcracker;now i'm all ready for my Japan trip.

    thank you again fo this great contribution [​IMG]
     


  8. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Senior member

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  9. Ilovelobbs

    Ilovelobbs Senior member

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    First piece of p0rn...from Masaru Okuyama

    [​IMG]
     


  10. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    :fistbump:


    Yes there is a whole lot of them. But I think what makes Japanese bespoke scene different is that there is so much diverse styles available (English, Italian, French, Austrian, and local Japanese) just in Tokyo alone



    :thumbs-up:

    quite a few of the bespoke makers offer handmade MTO shoes with lasts to choose from. Usually don't include a fitting session, and cost 1/2 or less of full bespoke. I suppose you can order on spot, and have it shipped once done. On top of my head, Saion, Spigola, Guild (Hall & Marks), Clematis does it
     


  11. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If I recall, 38,000 HKD
    very very nice. I remember some forum member had a couple of Okuyama bespokes (from Hardcore Porn thread?)
     


  12. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I have actually line up with him a visit once I am back Home. Will be able to tell in the next 2 months.
     


  13. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Marquess: The round toe last = love

    [​IMG]
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    There is Bespokepalooza party event going on at Isetan this Saturday, with 20 bespoke artists (shoes, tailors etc...) showing up all at once to take orders....
    I'll pay a visit to Marquess and Yohei Fukuda at the event, hopely I can snap some pics
     


  14. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Misawa Noriyuki's brogues: Viennese Style (with a lil bit of Materna's DNA)

    [​IMG]
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  15. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    nutcracker, you are the man! How many of these makers speak English? I've approached some Japanese cordwainers with my interview requests; some have not understood me while some have professional level grasp of the tongue.
     


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