Indochino suits?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by crease, Jan 4, 2008.

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  1. linsook

    linsook Senior member

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    The new collection is out. I just went to check my account for remake progress and found a Mad Men style of advertising on the front page. There are three new suits and six shirts. No outerwear so far. It seems important given the weather is changing. Btw, linsook, you've got my hopes up again with Indochino. After looking at your navy tweed, I realized how well-made their shoulders are. I think padded shoulders work quite well depending on the makers, but Indochino's points out on the very top edge, almost as if it is roped horizontally. On the other hand, the natural shoulder has a better amount of padding (not perfect, but very good nonetheless). I have seen some natural shoulders that are just downright scary. Case in point: http://youngmanoldman.blogspot.com/2...shoulders.html I don't know how anyone can suggest that looks "cool".
    Natural shoulders like that i think are called 'spalla camicia' and is actually a preference for some of the bespoke wearers on this forum.
     


  2. raphael__n

    raphael__n Well-Known Member

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    Natural shoulders like that i think are called 'spalla camicia' and is actually a preference for some of the bespoke wearers on this forum.

    That's new information to me. An interesting look that is actually quite attractive for men with broad shoulders. I suppose the the earlier link was a bad introduction for me. It looks terrible on him. But this one here is quite nice. Makes me wish I could wear something like that. Better hit the benchpress.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. alexdunhill

    alexdunhill Member

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but does Indochino appear to be mistakingly using the term tweed for what they should be calling a plaid or check pattern? Granted, the patterns on the cloth are often used with tweed stuff but to me these look like a worsted cloth, not tweed.

    Light Grey "Tweed" Suit:

    [​IMG]

    The Step Above "Tweed" Suit:

    [​IMG]

    The Walker Navy Tweed Suit they had not far back was definitely tweed though and looked really nice, I'm kinda pissed they sold out before I had a chance to grab one. I'm not saying the new "tweed" fabrics aren't nice (what's with the 5% Poly content though??) just they aren't very "tweedy" lol.

    Navy Walker Tweed Suit:

    [​IMG]
     


  4. jbharris88

    jbharris88 Senior member

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    Correct me if I'm wrong, but does Indochino appear to be mistakingly using the term tweed for what they should be calling a plaid or check pattern? Granted, the patterns on the cloth are often used with tweed stuff but to me these look like a worsted cloth, not tweed.

    I have the EXACT same question....also would NEVER buy something with 5% poly in it.
     


  5. Crash Override

    Crash Override Active Member

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    I have the EXACT same question....also would NEVER buy something with 5% poly in it.

    Here's a shot of Topman's Harris Tweed Suit jacket:
    [​IMG]
     


  6. alexdunhill

    alexdunhill Member

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    I have the EXACT same question....also would NEVER buy something with 5% poly in it.

    I don't get why they even bother making fabric with a five-percent synthetic blend, I mean it's not like blending for reasons like adding softness or weight, etc. - it's done to save $$$. Ergo, higher percentage of poly = bigger savings. But what's the point when you're only going to make savings on the price difference between wool and polyester on five-percent of the fabric. I'd sooner choose a cloth that was five-percent lighter (eg. 9.5oz vs. 10oz) but still be pure wool if they were that intent on cutting costs.
     


  7. raphael__n

    raphael__n Well-Known Member

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    I remember reading a few months ago that Indochino sources their fabric from resellers based on word-of-mouth/personal relations. Since they are not mass produced, there are no set contracts, and therefore supply varies (also why those nicer fabrics run out quickly). I would imagine that Indochino grabbed the 5% blend because they were given a good deal on it, not to save the minimal amount the 5% would give them if the fabric was sourced on a contract basis. The downside is lack of supply, but it allows them to innovate their collection more often. As Barney Stinson would say "New is always better".

    I think haiguise might become even more suspicious of me now.
     


  8. alexdunhill

    alexdunhill Member

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    I remember reading a few months ago that Indochino sources their fabric from resellers based on word-of-mouth/personal relations. Since they are not mass produced, there are no set contracts, and therefore supply varies (also why those nicer fabrics run out quickly). I would imagine that Indochino grabbed the 5% blend because they were given a good deal on it, not to save the minimal amount the 5% would give them if the fabric was sourced on a contract basis. The downside is lack of supply, but it allows them to innovate their collection more often. As Barney Stinson would say "New is always better".

    I think haiguise might become even more suspicious of me now.


    Yeah I understand Indochino would have just grabbed it and not cared about the 5% poly in it; what I meant is I don't understand why fabric manufacturers in general bother making stuff like that. Whatever they'd save by having five-percent synthetic would be pretty small in the big scheme of things, and for many people they've ruined it by putting a synthetic in.
     


  9. intent

    intent Senior member

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    Yeah I understand Indochino would have just grabbed it and not cared about the 5% poly in it; what I meant is I don't understand why fabric manufacturers in general bother making stuff like that. Whatever they'd save by having five-percent synthetic would be pretty small in the big scheme of things, and for many people they've ruined it by putting a synthetic in.
    For you this makes sense. The majority of people don't care. The fabric manufacturer isn't going for the long tail here.
     


  10. Tern

    Tern New Member

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    Very good point.
     


  11. superlyduper

    superlyduper Member

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    Couple quick questions that I couldn't find with search.. but I figure must be useful for others looking to order: Is it still preferred not to have side tabs on indochino pants (too bulky?) Would someone explain the advanced vest details? A brief discussion on "fabric vest instead of lining" and a how to distinguish between normal, normal with collar, and rounded. Which preferred choice or which is most professional? Does natural shoulders mean minimal padding or none at all? Am I correct with the following? Pen pocket and jacket embroidering are hidden on the inside of the jacket, and waist pocket is visible on the outside, and coin pocket is hidden inside of the front pants pocket. If you order the Tailors Kit and get a $29 credit on your account, can this $29 credit be combined with coupons? When do you think the next good coupon will come out? (something along the lines of 25% off, free shirt, free accessory) [​IMG] I know that was quite a long list of questions. Many thanks
     


  12. raphael__n

    raphael__n Well-Known Member

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    Couple quick questions that I couldn't find with search.. but I figure must be useful for others looking to order: Is it still preferred not to have side tabs on indochino pants (too bulky?) Would someone explain the advanced vest details? A brief discussion on "fabric vest instead of lining" and a how to distinguish between normal, normal with collar, and rounded. Which preferred choice or which is most professional? Does natural shoulders mean minimal padding or none at all? Am I correct with the following? Pen pocket and jacket embroidering are hidden on the inside of the jacket, and waist pocket is visible on the outside, and coin pocket is hidden inside of the front pants pocket. If you order the Tailors Kit and get a $29 credit on your account, can this $29 credit be combined with coupons? When do you think the next good coupon will come out? (something along the lines of 25% off, free shirt, free accessory) [​IMG] I know that was quite a long list of questions. Many thanks
    Side tabs are a personal preference. I prefer not to have them, or to wear a belt for that matter (given the pants fit properly). Unless you plan on wearing the pants without the jacket, they'll be hidden most of the time. Vests generally have fabric on the front and lining on the back. If you choose to get a fabric back, the entire vest will be made of fabric. You'll notice I chose this option in my first picture, whereas the second one shows the burgundy lining. A collar introduces a short lapel on the vest: [​IMG] whereas a rounded collar forms more of a U-shape instead of the normal V-shape. I may be wrong about this one, but this looks like a rounded vest to me: [​IMG] Natural shoulders have minimal padding. As linsook pointed out, no padding is referred to as spalla camicia (check above), but natural shoulders have minimum padding as shown in Linsook's Walker Navy: [​IMG] You are correct on all the pocket descriptions. The tailor's kit works as a coupon, so it cannot be combined. I made that mistake, but Angie refunded me the amount since it isn't clearly indicated on the website. Nobody can predict when a new coupon will emerge, but LorenzL keeps his coupon page updated regularly. Check up on it from time to time: http://www.indochino-review.com/p/in...o-coupons.html
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     


  13. arvidg

    arvidg Senior member

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    Couple quick questions that I couldn't find with search.. but I figure must be useful for others looking to order:


    Is it still preferred not to have side tabs on indochino pants (too bulky?)
    [...]


    I'm not sure about right now, but some time ago I returned a pair of side-tabbed pants (and had them re-made without the tabs) because of one silly thing:

    Indochino uses¹ a white fabric in the inside waistband. With the way they constructed the side tabs¹, this fabric would show. Result: Pants looked ridiculous unless also wearing a coat.


    ¹) or at least did, at the time
     


  14. michael_legeek

    michael_legeek Active Member

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    (what's with the 5% Poly content though??)
    I suspect (I'm no expert) that it means this is a core-spun yarn, consisting of a strong poly core with wool sheathing. This would, for example, allow them to use a less-strong grade of wool while maintaining the strength of the overall garment, since the core fiber provides the strength.

    You see something like this often in 'stretch' garments where a seemingly minuscule amount of added Lycra/Spandex gives a cotton (for example) garment some stretchiness: the threads are made of cotton spiraling around a stretchy core, so the thread as a whole can lengthen significantly despite being mostly cotton.

    Since the artificial material is on the inside of each thread, all you see or touch is the sheath material -- the wool or cotton.

    (I wasn't able to find an ideal Wikipedia entry on this, but here's an article on cotton/poly that talks about the same technique.)

    Again, I'm just speculating about the fabric in question, but I think it stands to reason given that, as others have pointed out, adding a few percent of artificial fiber on its own would not seem to make a substantial cost difference.
     


  15. MrInvariant

    MrInvariant Senior member

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    ... it means this is a core-spun yarn, consisting of a strong poly core with wool sheathing. This would, for example, allow them to use a less-strong grade of wool...

    So you're saying that not only the fabric contains polyester, the wool is lower quality than usual, too? [​IMG]
    Well at least this makes it easier to decide for those who were hesitating... [​IMG]
     


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