Important and Titillating Sartorial Observations

[Medwed]

It is, austere.

If it was then it would have been called 'Austere brogue', wouldn't it?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

No, there were rules against how to use leather during a time when it was scarce. Brogueing was not allowed because it was seen as wasteful, thus during a time of austerity you have the patterns of a brogue, without the brougeing. At least that's what memory serves. Correct me if I am wrong? @DWFII @ntempleman

 

[Medwed]

"Austerity" = no punched holes or any complicated designs.

Who coined the term Austerity? Vass?

Was it an SF invention, like "quarters"? (No tailors use the term "quarters" but it's used here extensively)

Austerity was coined by Brits during the WW I or II, cannot be sure (so the SF legend goes).

 

[ntempleman]

It’s been called an austerity brogue for a long time in the West End. Nothing to do with economic conditions, it’s just a full brogue pattern that has been unadorned with decorative broguing, leaving it austere. It’s no more or less wasteful to brogue or not brogue. The cap and counter are the most wasteful, if austerity was a concern then you’d be wearing a very plain Oxford with cotton lining, not doubled up toe and heels

 

[ntempleman]

Cotton lined fronts was once the standard for oxfords, fwiw. Not sure why it changed. Now typically lined with “yellow horse” which isn’t actually horse - talc drummed calf, very flexible. Derbies get a regular vamp lining. I don’t make the rules

 

[jrd617]

It’s been called an austerity brogue for a long time in the West End. Nothing to do with economic conditions, it’s just a full brogue pattern that has been unadorned with decorative broguing, leaving it austere. It’s no more or less wasteful to brogue or not brogue. The cap and counter are the most wasteful, if austerity was a concern then you’d be wearing a very plain Oxford with cotton lining, not doubled up toe and heels

Zing.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Cotton lined fronts was once the standard for oxfords, fwiw. Not sure why it changed. Now typically lined with “yellow horse” which isn’t actually horse - talc drummed calf, very flexible. Derbies get a regular vamp lining. I don’t make the rules

A long time ago I saw Church shoes with what looked like linen lining in the vamp.

 

[ntempleman]

There’s lots of old showcase shoes in Lobb and Fosters/Maxwells with cotton vamp linings

 

[Alan Bee]

Black oxfords with business suits (maybe dark burgundy too).

Brown oxfords are starting to look a bit “off” to me with anything but summer suits in Tan or very light grays.

Call it the arrival at @patrickBOOTH wisdom of black shoes.

Alan Bee

 

[patrickBOOTH]

I think the issue is that people wear brown shoes that are too light. Midtown east is a sea of blue shirts and walnut Allen Edmonds. Looks terrible.

 

[romafan]

Do NOT look over on the westside!

 

[ntempleman]

You go to midtown east but you never stop and say hi to me

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Don't you live in England?

 

[ntempleman]

I come to nyc twice a year

 

[Thin White Duke]

I think the issue is that people wear brown shoes that are too light. Midtown east is a sea of blue shirts and walnut Allen Edmonds. Looks terrible.

I’ve seen this with my own eyes and I agree. It’s not just midtown either. Otherwise-decently dressed blokes in dark blue suits and scuffed up shoes of a colour I’ve never seen in nature outside of my toddler’s nappy!