How much would you pay for a pocket square?

[TexasToast]

I would love to get some pocket squares and Ive seen some outrageous prices what is the most you'll pay for a pocket square?

 

[dieworkwear]

I don't remember how much they cost, but I've paid somewhere around $120 for Rumisu pocket squares. They have nice, cheerful designs that I like, and they're printed on a gauzy silk that's hard to find elsewhere (crepe).

That said, most of my squares are from Drake's. Don't remember how much they charge.

 

[ValidusLA]

Mostly I buy Rampley and Co and Drakes these days. Rampley is about $110+tax depending on exchange rate. Drakes is about $115+tax.

 

[maxalex]

“Outrageous” is a relative term as applied to clothing purchases—someone who buys $500 suits is unlikely to spend a quarter of that on a piece of silk the size of a dinner napkin that is mostly hidden from view.

But as with jewelry, often the smallest things you wear are the most “precious.”

Mostly you want pocket squares that look like they were hand-crafted. Cheap squares are often coarse and thick, machine-printed on one side only, with flat edges sewn on another machine. They are lifeless.

A fine pocket square will be made of very thin silk (or Irish linen) and have a lively design with rich colors. The edges will be rolled and sewn by hand. In your own hand it will feel luxurious.

It’s hard to get those qualities from a machine, and as always, anything handmade costs more. The good news is you can find lots of nice used pocket squares on eBay.

 

[TexasToast]

“Outrageous” is a relative term as applied to clothing purchases—someone who buys $500 suits is unlikely to spend a quarter of that on a piece of silk the size of a dinner napkin that is mostly hidden from view.

But as with jewelry, often the smallest things you wear are the most “precious.”

Mostly you want pocket squares that look like they were hand-crafted. Cheap squares are often coarse and thick, machine-printed on one side only, with flat edges sewn on another machine. They are lifeless.

A fine pocket square will be made of very thin silk (or Irish linen) and have a lively design with rich colors. The edges will be rolled and sewn by hand. In your own hand it will feel luxurious.

It’s hard to get those qualities from a machine, and as always, anything handmade costs more. The good news is you can find lots of nice used pocket squares on eBay.

How did you know I wouldn't spend a 1/4 of what I spent on my suit on a pocket square. I did see some nice PS from Rampley and Co and those PS I would spend what they are asking. The PS at Rampley and Co are AMAZING and didn't cost $500 thanks
ValidusLA for suggesting them.

 

[dieworkwear]

It’s hard to get those qualities from a machine, and as always, anything handmade costs more. The good news is you can find lots of nice used pocket squares on eBay.

FWIW, nearly all the pocket squares coveted on this forum -- Rubinacci, Drake's, etc -- have machine-sewn edges. They just look like they've been done by hand.

To the OP, I recommend just getting stuff that makes you happy. If you're looking for deals, The Real Real has pocket squares from Hermes and Charvet for pretty cheap.

https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/suiting-accessories/pocket-squares/charvet-silk-printed-pocket-square-ab0uo?sid=pxogmz&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=shopping&cvosrc=cse.google.google&cvo_crid=453052843800&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbEz8gJMQV0JtipKBO2EB-xoMTcT30LH-iza-LyWj_fPIR7vLW-m4aJhoCdwsQAvD_BwE

 

[TexasToast]

FWIW, nearly all the pocket squares coveted on this forum -- Rubinacci, Drake's, etc -- have machine-sewn edges. They just look like they've been done by hand.

To the OP, I recommend just getting stuff that makes you happy. If you're looking for deals, The Real Real has pocket squares from Hermes and Charvet for pretty cheap.

https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/suiting-accessories/pocket-squares/charvet-silk-printed-pocket-square-ab0uo?sid=pxogmz&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=shopping&cvosrc=cse.google.google&cvo_crid=453052843800&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbEz8gJMQV0JtipKBO2EB-xoMTcT30LH-iza-LyWj_fPIR7vLW-m4aJhoCdwsQAvD_BwE

Thanks for the link I will check them out.

 

[maxalex]

FWIW, nearly all the pocket squares coveted on this forum -- Rubinacci, Drake's, etc -- have machine-sewn edges. They just look like they've been done by hand.

To the OP, I recommend just getting stuff that makes you happy. If you're looking for deals, The Real Real has pocket squares from Hermes and Charvet for pretty cheap.

https://www.therealreal.com/products/men/suiting-accessories/pocket-squares/charvet-silk-printed-pocket-square-ab0uo?sid=pxogmz&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=shopping&cvosrc=cse.google.google&cvo_crid=453052843800&gclid=CjwKCAjw4KyJBhAbEiwAaAQbEz8gJMQV0JtipKBO2EB-xoMTcT30LH-iza-LyWj_fPIR7vLW-m4aJhoCdwsQAvD_BwE

I believe the brands you mention have machine-rolled edges which is different from machine-sewn. The latter just have a flat hem edge (cheap looking) while the machine-rolled edges do approximate handwork. In any case, a lot of what you pay for with those brands is their archive of designs going back decades. I like a lot of those but also the more modern designs.

 

[dieworkwear]

I believe the brands you mention have machine-rolled edges which is different from machine-sewn. The latter just have a flat hem edge (cheap looking) while the machine-rolled edges do approximate handwork. In any case, a lot of what you pay for with those brands is their archive of designs going back decades. I like a lot of those but also the more modern designs.

My understanding is that they're both machine rolled and machine sewn. Most companies buy from the same remaining silk printers located in Macclesfield or Como. These companies offer silkscreening or inkjet printing for their silks, and then give you the option of machine rolling the edge. They don't have a hand-finishing service.

So when you get the squares, you'll often get something like what you see below. Here are five pocket square edges. The gold edge is Rubinacci and the brown edge is from Drake's. These two examples show what you'll mostly commonly get from these houses. The standout here is the grey edge (Hermes), which is one of the few companies that doesn't use these Macclesfield or Como silk printers. They do their printing and finishing in-house. The grey Hermes edge here is also hand-rolled and handsewn.

Outside of Hermes, most large companies don't offer handsewn edges. It's just too time and labor-intensive given their volumes. On the upside, they can also afford to create and print their own designs. Smaller producers, on the other hand, often use offcuts for their fabrics.

Here's an example: Vanda square made from an offcut fabric, but with a handrolled edge. The Rubinacci square is machine sewn, but made from a unique fabric.

You can always tell when the edge is sewn by machine because the exposed stitching looks like this. Most of the coveted pocket squares on this forum are finished this way -- Drake's Rubinacci, etc.

Handsewn edges aren't so easily categorized. Some feature more imperfections than others; some have more hidden stitching than others. This is a Vanda edge with little imperfection, but it's still hand-made

The only edges I would avoid are "napkin" type of edges, where the edge is completely flat. But other that, I think you can just buy stuff based on its emotional resonance. I wear my Drake's and Rubinacci pocket squares even though they're machine-made. (Some of the respectable companies now even use inkjet printed silks, which used to be considered a no-no)

 

[maxalex]

My understanding is that they're both machine rolled and machine sewn. Most companies buy from the same remaining silk printers located in Macclesfield or Como. These companies offer silkscreening or inkjet printing for their silks, and then give you the option of machine rolling the edge. They don't have a hand-finishing service.

So when you get the squares, you'll often get something like what you see below. Here are five pocket square edges. The gold edge is Rubinacci and the brown edge is from Drake's. These two examples show what you'll mostly commonly get from these houses. The standout here is the grey edge (Hermes), which is one of the few companies that doesn't use these Macclesfield or Como silk printers. They do their printing and finishing in-house. The grey Hermes edge here is also hand-rolled and handsewn.


View attachment 1660513


Outside of Hermes, most large companies don't offer handsewn edges. It's just too time and labor-intensive given their volumes. On the upside, they can also afford to create and print their own designs. Smaller producers, on the other hand, often use offcuts for their fabrics.

Here's an example: Vanda square made from an offcut fabric, but with a handrolled edge. The Rubinacci square is machine sewn, but made from a unique fabric.

View attachment 1660514


You can always tell when the edge is sewn by machine because the exposed stitching looks like this. Most of the coveted pocket squares on this forum are finished this way -- Drake's Rubinacci, etc.

View attachment 1660516


Handsewn edges aren't so easily categorized. Some feature more imperfections than others; some have more hidden stitching than others. This is a Vanda edge with little imperfection, but it's still hand-made


View attachment 1660517


The only edges I would avoid are "napkin" type of edges, where the edge is completely flat. But other that, I think you can just buy stuff based on its emotional resonance. I wear my Drake's and Rubinacci pocket squares even though they're machine-made. (Some of the respectable companies now even use inkjet printed silks, which used to be considered a no-no)

Totally agree, as long as the edge is rolled, it’s fine whatever the technique. And yes, some of the smaller brands that are genuinely handmade have sub-standard printing in my opinion.

 

[Duke Santos]

Rampley & Co. Last one that I bought was $105 with the current exchange rate. Quality is phenomenal. The range of designs is extensive. And, you're helping to support a genuine small business run by exceptional people rather than some anonymous French or Italian fashion house..

And if you need to get up to 100 pounds for free shipping, I highly suggest their socks. Best I've ever owned.

 

[Daniel Hakimi]

See, here's the thing. You can get great pocket squares for cheap. I have two from a drake's sample sale, one from a robert talbott sample sale, one Drake's from a J. Crew bargain bin, one from Kent Wang... And these are all new, you can always thrift.

If you want to pay $120 for a pocket square, if you just need that square, go ahead. But you can build a collection of very nice squares at ~$20-30 per, with enough patience.

 

[dieworkwear]

And if you need to get up to 100 pounds for free shipping, I highly suggest their socks. Best I've ever owned.

wow a hundred pounds is a LOT of socks

 

[maxalex]

wow a hundred pounds is a LOT of socks

The Harris tweed socks weigh a lot.

 

[jack webb]

"...but I've paid somewhere around $120 for Rumisu pocket squares..."

Move that decimal point one notch to the left and perhaps I'm interested.