Grant Stone - Official Affiliate Thread

[manowar]

I decided to try the Floyd last in an 11D. The left boot fits like a dream. The right boot fits decently but my big toe presses against the side of the boot into the celastic toe. Will that area ease at all? What's extremely odd is that my right foot is the shorter of the two and is an 11D Brannock, so this boot is actually my Brannock size for that foot. I kind of think that it's 11D or bust for me. An 11E is way too big in the ankle and heel, same with 11 1/2D. A 10 1/2E would be too short on the left foot.

I was contemplating your Floyd last fitment last night in light of the Brannock Device photo you posted earlier and I also agree that while the 10.5E may be too short for your longer foot, it may also alleviate the lateral toe pressure you are feeling on the shorter (but wider?) foot. Unfortunately there's not much that can be done to stretch the celastic toe area. Almost everything I have read about the Floyd last suggests that the fit should not be overly snug, but loose enough to be comfortable for all day wear.

Perfect solution would just ordering two different sizes, huh...

Honestly though, you could look into a pair of Nicks or Whites that can be custom made to each of your feet. I find them too overbuilt for my lifestyle but they are amazing boots.

Well, in the end my investigations found this to be nothing to do with the Edwards (I was mistaken and when I wore them the other day I had no pain) and everything to do specifically with the thick leather of the Diesel Saddle Tans in combination with the additionally reinforced leather ankle. I wore them and again got pain after 2 mins. In it's factory unbroken state the leather was very unyielding and put undue pressure on my right ankle (and only my right) when walking in a way that none of my other boots in my collection did.


Can I please out of interest ask why? In my personal view all it means is that you then have to spend more money at a cobblers getting them rubberized if you want long-term durability and a safe level of grip during wet/slippery conditions. I see no practical benefits to an all-leather sole for the majority of people, unless aesthetics/traditionalism are more important than safety.

If you have seen a cutaway of the Diesel boot it might be more evident where the pressure is coming from, as the leather backstay is not doubled up over the heel counter, but rather takes the place of it. On the PNW bootmakers that I mentioned above, the backstay is layered on top of the heel counter to provide a more consistent, though rigid, support around the heel and ankle.

One potential issue that could arise with the Diesel boot's construction method is that the area above the seam where the back stay connects with quarters can buckle inward, pushing against the ankle area. Just guessing at what might have been the issue in your pair - I have not experienced this at all with Grant Stone. Anecdotally, this happens with a pair of Oak Street Bootmaker boots that I have.

Edit: And by backstay I actually mean the external heel counter, my bad.

But, based on the solution you posted of softening up the leather, it might have just been a very rigid heel counter. Given time with break-in, this issue should have resolved itself, albeit in a longer, more drawn out, painful manner.

Hotspots and pain are very common in the boot world, and not necessarily an indication of the wrong size. I know that with Nicks boots, the estimation is 50-75 hours of hard wear before the boots are actually broken in. Blisters and certainly callouses are not unheard of.


In answer to your leather sole question - I just find them more comfortable! While the lack of grip can be problematic (when pushing a car for instance), for wearing on office carpet 90% of the time they have plenty of grip. I am also guilty as charged: not only does the heritage aspect of a full leather sole appeal to me, I think they look great, and always preferring natural materials over synthetic ones I get a special satisfaction in knowing there is a solid inch of leather between me and the ground.

While pushing a car uphill in leather soled shoes was a big letdown, I will say that they held up great one time when I had to run two miles in the rain!

 

[whipcord]

I was contemplating your Floyd last fitment last night in light of the Brannock Device photo you posted earlier and I also agree that while the 10.5E may be too short for your longer foot, it may also alleviate the lateral toe pressure you are feeling on the shorter (but wider?) foot. Unfortunately there's not much that can be done to stretch the celastic toe area. Almost everything I have read about the Floyd last suggests that the fit should not be overly snug, but loose enough to be comfortable for all day wear.

Thank you for the thoughtful post. I am surprised it is my shorter foot that has a problem wearing its true Brannock size. From everything I've read, Grant Stone's lasts are on the wider side. I think the shape of the front of my foot is the problem. It's too square (toes straight across) whereas most peoples' feet taper more. Thanks again.

 

[whipcord]

I made an executive decision and I am keeping these 11D Brass Boots and breaking them in. I was able to find that the area my right big toe is pressing on is actually before the celastic toe, so I pushed a little on it from the inside and think it will soften up over time. This CXL is really soft. These feel pretty good after walking around a bit. The difficult part of online purchases is not being able to walk in the boots - ie. you crease 'em, you buy 'em.

 

[Kkstpattisday]

I made an executive decision and I am keeping these 11D Brass Boots and breaking them in. I was able to find that the area my right big toe is pressing on is actually before the celastic toe, so I pushed a little on it from the inside and think it will soften up over time. This CXL is really soft. These feel pretty good after walking around a bit. The difficult part of online purchases is not being able to walk in the boots - ie. you crease 'em, you buy 'em. View attachment 1766020

Those really pop enjoy the break in!

 

[whipcord]

Those really pop enjoy the break in!

Thanks. I like the wedge sole on a moc-toe boot. It's more of the traditional look that I'm used to. These are strictly casual for me, of course, as are all my boots. I don't wear dress boots.

 

[brandonboot]

I made an executive decision and I am keeping these 11D Brass Boots and breaking them in. I was able to find that the area my right big toe is pressing on is actually before the celastic toe, so I pushed a little on it from the inside and think it will soften up over time. This CXL is really soft. These feel pretty good after walking around a bit. The difficult part of online purchases is not being able to walk in the boots - ie. you crease 'em, you buy 'em. View attachment 1766020

my black cxl boots have significantly stretched more over time then most of my other pairs of boots with a different leather. I’d be hopeful yours will do the same

 

[bballer87]

Added some 12D boots to the BST thread due to sizing mistakes.

Grant Stone Buy/Sell/Trade

Have a pair of Grant Stone antique brown/chocolate calf chelsea boot seconds in size 9. Unworn, last / sizing just not great for me. Honestly can't tell why they're seconds, aside from some potential creasing on one boot. Asking $200 shipped, basically what I paid minus S&H. Bump! $175 shipped...

www.styleforum.net

 

[Moostyle]

But, based on the solution you posted of softening up the leather, it might have just been a very rigid heel counter. Given time with break-in, this issue should have resolved itself, albeit in a longer, more drawn out, painful manner.

It was the right side of the boot that curved inwards that was the main culprit and softening the counter was just an additional step top reduce overall tension. The counter was the last thing I softened and by that point it was already much improved.

Of course wearing them for a few more months on and off may have had the same effect, but I think it is patently clear from my post that breaking them in further with wearing was not in any way a viable option, hence why I did it artificially.

In the end I solved the problem and learned something new. All good.

In answer to your leather sole question - I just find them more comfortable! While the lack of grip can be problematic (when pushing a car for instance), for wearing on office carpet 90% of the time they have plenty of grip

hah this made me chuckle. Pushing a car? That is probably the extreme end of testing grip requirement for any shoe, regardless of sole type.

During a work day throughout the year I will walk on pavements, marble floors and slick paved surfaces, wet floors, etc etc. Leather soles are really not fun doing most of that and rubberizing makes a big difference. However as I said, each to their own and everyone needs to see what works for them.

 

[manowar]

It was the right side of the boot that curved inwards that was the main culprit and softening the counter was just an additional step top reduce overall tension. The counter was the last thing I softened and by that point it was already much improved.

Of course wearing them for a few more months on and off may have had the same effect, but I think it is patently clear from my post that breaking them in further with wearing was not in any way a viable option, hence why I did it artificially.

In the end I solved the problem and learned something new. All good.



hah this made me chuckle. Pushing a car? That is probably the extreme end of testing grip requirement for any shoe, regardless of sole type.

During a work day throughout the year I will walk on pavements, marble floors and slick paved surfaces, wet floors, etc etc. Leather soles are really not fun doing most of that and rubberizing makes a big difference. However as I said, each to their own and everyone needs to see what works for them.

Hope my ramblings have been at least somewhat useful. I share a special interest in fitment since I've had such a difficult time finding the perfect fit myself. Do keep us updated on how your Brass Boot wears in.

The Chromexcel leather will definitely stretch more than most leathers would, which will eventually translate to a higher volume boot overall. If it's not terribly snug right now maybe it will end up being perfect.

With celastic toes I find that pushing down on them tends to give the desired effect of widening the toe box temparily, but you'd have to do a lot of bending in hot conditions to have a chance at keeping that shape and I'm not sure if it's even possible. Taking them to a cobbler for stretching may not be a bad idea, as they could advise you better than I, but to remove the celastic toe would be catostrophic to both the boots and your wallet, I think.

It's no wonder why several companies offer the celastic toe as an option. As for me, big toe rub is the single most aggravating problem I have in almost every pair of GYW footwear I own.

I don't fault you for loosening up the leather by hand because I've done the same to new cordovan wallets as well as boots, most noteably a tough unlined football-grain leather boot from AE. That thing was painful! The problem was compounded by how the uppers had been attached crooked, where you could see that the backstay wasn't even straight up and down.

As far as the pain experienced with break-in, a primary source of pain in boots for me is when the edge of the boot's tongue gets crammed against the ankle bone when tightly laced, especially if the tongue shifts to one side.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, I have also experienced the side of the boots pushing inward right above where the heel counter is attached to the quarters.

Now, about leather soles....
Pushing a car uphill by myself: yep it's happened. Nope, I don't recommend it!

Wet floors and marble, definitely hazardous! I remember nearly wiping out once on wet tile with my Florsheim Imperials and it was a scary feeling. Sometimes those slips can be life altering.

So, leather soles actually have a good amount of grip once they get roughed up. Walking on gravel or rough asphalt does this well. And if you want more grip at the expense of possibly some durability, you can actually condition the outsoles to give them more tackiness.

Also I want to add that the type of heel can really make a difference. The dovetail or combo heels that Grant Stone uses tend to lose grip more easily than a full rubber to toplift on the heel, though I believe their aesthetics are superior. And if the heel lists forward to where the rubber doesn't make full contact with the ground then that's an accident waiting to happen. This was the case in my aforementioned Florsheims,

I find that even adding a thin topy will make my shoes and boots feel front heavy or off balance. Unless the heel block is also heightened you lose a bit of heel/toe offset, even when shaving down the sole before pasting on the rubber. Minor quibbles though. I think the V-tread from Allen Edmonds is a great solution, best of both worlds.

Don't get me wrong, rubber is great too. I'm wearing a Dainite clone sole today and it's not bad (a pair of Thursday Boots I bought off a friend for $15). But there's nothing like a good leather sole.

 

[manowar]

Apologies for the double post. Here's my contribution.

Third size I've tried in the Brass Boot is a winner! (God bless the good people of Grant Stone.) Testing them out over the weekend with good result!

So, I'm thinking these need.... leather laces. Has anybody tried it on the Brass Boot?

 

[basu13]

As far as the pain experienced with break-in, a primary source of pain in boots for me is when the edge of the boot's tongue gets crammed against the ankle bone when tightly laced, especially if the tongue shifts to one side.

This has exactly been my experience as well. Especially on calf leather shoes (not so much on CXL) e.g. my British tan captoes and Trickers Stows. Fortunately, the Trickers broke in pretty quickly and the issue is gone. On the GS captoes, took a bit more time but are now comfortable as well. I tend to lace my boots quite snug and thus this is a specific discomfort point on new boots yet to be broken in.

 

[Moeck14]

Apologies for the double post. Here's my contribution.

Third size I've tried in the Brass Boot is a winner! (God bless the good people of Grant Stone.) Testing them out over the weekend with good result!

View attachment 1766249

So, I'm thinking these need.... leather laces. Has anybody tried it on the Brass Boot?

I wear leather laces on my Maduro Shell Brass Boots. Love the look of them with the brass boot

 

[whipcord]

Been wearing them all day today. The left boot has been the epitome of comfort since the moment I tried it on. It fits just perfectly. The right boot still has that feeling of my big toe touching the side as my foot rolls with the boot while stepping and pushing off. It's not painful, but more of an annoying feeling if that makes sense. I hope it relaxes a little and I can get used to it. When I am sitting down and not walking, I don't feel it.

 

[Moeck14]

Been wearing them all day today. The left boot has been the epitome of comfort since the moment I tried it on. It fits just perfectly. The right boot still has that feeling of my big toe touching the side as my foot rolls with the boot while stepping and pushing off. It's not painful, but more of an annoying feeling if that makes sense. I hope it relaxes a little and I can get used to it. When I am sitting down and not walking, I don't feel it.

View attachment 1766435

I have the same issue with the Leo last on my right foot. Hasn't gone away after a year and half sadly. Left foot is a perfect fit though

 

[Erikdayo]

I have the same issue with the Leo last on my right foot. Hasn't gone away after a year and half sadly. Left foot is a perfect fit though

I have the same issue with my right foot on some lasts. The toes on my right foot like to splay a bit more than my left foot which is a lot of the reason I have this issue. And I suppose depending on the exact shape of the last and how it fits me that can be problematic.