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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    @isolation, you have some good suits already. It seems from your list that you do not yet have a solid navy SB suit. I would definitely get this before a black DB suit, which is really not at all versatile. Heck, you already have a black SB suit that should work for when you decide you want to wear a black suit. There are a bunch of threads on this, but the biggest problems with black suits are (1) they look really stark and harsh during daylight and (2) they combine effectively with very few shirt and tie combinations. I can't comment on the complexion thing from personal experience, but I can tell you how the things look during daytime. Lastly, I would not do black as a blazersuit. The color suggests formality and it will just look odd with the modifications needed (patch pockets, etc.) to not make it look orphaned.

    On another note, I notice that you have / are acquiring a number of suits with checks. While they can be very elegant, they are also more memorable and less versatile. You have some cool stuff, but I'd really try to focus on solids more. I'd go with a solid navy in the 13-14 ounce range in place of your first suit. I really can't say anything bad about chalkstripe flannels even though they are not the most versatile, so maybe stick with that. For the final suit, I'd get something in grey over black (or perhaps a solid grey or navy suit in a summer appropriate fabric since you don't seem to have any summer weight solids). If you prefer medium grey to charcoal, you can do that too. In a vast majority of cases, the two serve the same purpose. Charcoal is just a bit more formal and somber.
     
  2. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah I might go with more mid gray. And like I said my situation means I don't go out in daylight much, I pretty much wake up at 5pm except weekends or days off where I am dressed casually.

    I was going to get a blue sb suit, but I wanted to get it in a mohair blend. Maybe that's a bit too fancy.

    I have a bunch of blue sb jackets, but they are linen or tweed, and since I already have blue db blazers as well as a sb blue check suit (it's a faint check, too), I thought the gap of an sb solid navy suit is not too big of a deal, especially as I don't really need a full rotation of conservative clothes.
     
  3. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Get the basics down, grow on from there. I honestly suggest you try to work what you already have in rotation and lurk in WAYWRN to get a feel for things you like.

    My tastes have changed drastically since I first started posting here. I'm lucky I didn't blow tons of cash on stuff only to realize I didn't really like it. This is a long game, you can take your time. The stuff isn't going anywhere.
     
  4. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Side question: To wear with a navy jacket (totally casual) navy chinos or jeans? I'm leaning to jeans for this one because two shades of navy together sounds pretty meh.
     
  5. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    If you must do either, I'd go with jeans. At least the denim will have a clear texture difference.
     
  6. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Either can work. Depends on the fabrics, colors, constructions, details.... Impossible to answer without pics.
     
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Why not cream/tan chinos? I think denim better if not possible.
     
  8. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Navy SB suit is such a basic staple that it really is a gap that should be corrected. You don't necessarily have to wear a solid suit in a conservative manner. For summer, I actually think a lightweight navy wool / mohair blend could be nice (the mohair blend helps the jacket wear cooler). Just make sure the fabric doesn't have too much of a sheen to it. My summer "navy" suit is actually a RAF blue navy / linen blend (doesn't wrinkle so it works). If I truly must be conservative, I suck it up and wear a navy suit I have in 10 ounce wool.
     
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Alright alright, so no black db, what about dark brown? I was thinking I could pair it with light linen trousers or cream and it'd be okay.

    edit:

    Yeah, it's just I have or plan to have in blue:
    Herringbone Tweed SC
    Blue Linen/blend casual jacket x2
    Blue Flannel DB
    Blue Glen Plaid SB
    Blue Check Hopsack SB
    Blue Solid Mohair blend

    So while I don't have a strictly navy solid, I kind of do have a bunch of solid blues in both sb and db, as well as sb suits in the color, so idk.

    I do agree though I should probably figure out the clothes I have just got now and learn from it before getting more. I am just excited about clothes.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2014
  10. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    My issue with the whole navy blazer and jeans look is that a navy blazer occupies a level of formality above that of most odd jackets and below that of a suit. As a result, I find the formality difference between top and bottom to be particularly jarring. I think it is easier to wear tweed and linen (and similar odd jacket fabrics) casually and that a navy blazer looks best with trousers that at least in theory could be worn with a tie. I think cream / tan chinos or moleskins are a better bet here.
     
  11. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    Dark brown DB suit in either flannel or linen could be awesome. I'd do a dark brown linen DB odd jacket but would not do a dark brown DB odd jacket in winter weight.
     
  12. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Oh and how can I forget I have this thing:

    [​IMG]
     
  13. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    Not a blazer. It's an unstructured jacket.

    I'm trying to put something together for the challenge and I've seen AAS do the blue jacket blue chino's look well, but I'm not sure how it would work for me. If I had light blue pants, I'd do those, but I don't. I have jeans in a different hue of blue, but I think it would look a little off. I'll have to figure it out in the mornin!
     
  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Quote: I think if it's darker blue then light blue linen's nice, otherwise looks like denim is the best bet.
     
    Last edited: Aug 28, 2014
  15. archibaldleach

    archibaldleach Senior member

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    ^ Must have missed the unstructured jacket part. Wear with jeans in good health, then.
     
  16. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Isolation, get a midnight blue suit. It's perfect for what you're describing.
     
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I'm actually not sure is midnight blue lighter or darker than navy? I've heard contradictory things.

    Also the french blue I got from Fox was really dark as well, and I was expecting lighter. Wanted to get a more slate-blue kind of patch pocket flannel jacket. All these shades of colors are confusing me.
     
  18. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    You would say that. ;)
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You cray.


    Not if I have to go to Baltimore to get in on it. Stitchy, you should come out to SF.
     
  20. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Fuck off.

    Anything but blue. And that includes denim, which is in any case the cloth of Satan. Khaki chinos are obvious, in the dressed down "California Tux" genre, or to make it even more casual, jeans with some kind of colour contrast. If not the khaki/beige scheme, then either lighter e.g. cream, white, or more contrasting, like terra cotta. But I don't know what you have in that department.

    But really. No blue chinos, no denim jeans. Not with this at least.
     

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