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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Alright if you don't know what this is about, you don't spend enough time on WAYWRN.

    Interested parties (off the top of my head)
    @in stitches
    @Rudals
    @sugarbutch
    @mimo
    @Cleav
    @aravenel

    Alright, we know Rudals works in an UCBD/CBD environment. He wears a lot of navy suits, though occasionally wears gray. Most of his shirts are solid, white or blue, though he has at least one micropattern and two blue pinstriped shirts. ITT, we post ties we think that Rudals needs to buy. Keep in mind, he probably has enough navies.

    Since Rudals harkens from the Orient, I'm going Far Eastside with my recs:

    From the Wang
    [​IMG]



    From the Wu
    [​IMG]

    Vanda

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 4, 2014
    2 people like this.
  2. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Damn it. Im off to a movie.

    Will post recs later.
     
  3. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Enjoy Fiddler on the Roof

    (I actually sang some Topol in the shower yesterday. It's a wonderful movie)

    Some neat recommendations:

    Sam Hober

    [​IMG]

    (perhaps too rough for most of Noodles' suits)

    [​IMG]


    Drakes:
    [​IMG]

    Panta:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Henry Carter
    [​IMG]
    (looks better here than in the stock photo)

    And some grenadines (Hober)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
    2 people like this.
  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Noodles Roooodals, get this tie and get into the Wu Tie Clan! It's awesome!

    I have one tie from Conrad Wu that is gray that I would love to wear with a navy suit but I don't have navy suits. But I just checked and it's no longer available.
     
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Senior member Moderator

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    Advice #1 - do not buy the ties in wolf of wall street.

    More tomorrow. :)
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl Senior member Moderator

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    I'm in on this, but I would also like to see what he can find on his own. Some homework maybe? Browse the following AV sites and post the ties you would consider buying (just a recommendation):

    No Man Walks Alone
    Sam Hober
    Panta
    Malford of London
    Howard Yount
    Henry Carter
    Conrad Wu
    Exquisite Trimmings
    Vanda

    I would also list Yellow Hook, but I think Rob's ties are geared much more towards people with freedom in their work attire...not your case from what I understand.
     
    Last edited: Jan 6, 2014
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  7. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    3 people like this.
  8. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Love it. Give me today, then I'm in. :nodding:
     
  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    SUCKED!
     
  10. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    Step to it, Noodles!

    Plenty of good steers above, let's see what you can pull out. My top recommendation to you: burgundy is the best friend of both navy and grey, and the darker the better. Brown, green, burnt orange, mustard, all good.

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Thank you all, and Clags I owe you a beer! This is probably just what I needed! Let me see what I can get my hands on from all the recommendations. I appreciate this gentlemen!
     
  12. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    How did do?
     
  13. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Stripes: 0/3
    ET: 1.5/3 (the green shantung is a great tie, but won't work for your city look. The green grenadine is a solid...aha...choice)
    Vanda: 3/3

    In my iPhone. I'll explain scores later.
     
  14. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    I will order at least 2 from all the suggestions by the end of today EST.
     
  15. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know first hand that Rudals throws down.

    As far as the stripes:
    Two of them are navy base. You have enough navy ties for your gray suits, and since you prefer navy suits, you'll want to steer away from navy ties.

    The blue in the other striped tie is light enough, but I'm not keen on stripes the same width. This might be because I struggle with them (and because they suffer a bit from "neither this nor that")
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
    2 people like this.
  16. mimo

    mimo Senior member

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    I'm going to disagree a little with the Clagster here:

    Capelli stripes: firstly, I'm not sure that stripes are a priority for you at all with your style restrictions/preferences. The strong associations with private schools, sports clubs and military regiments are nto a problem unless yours has a meaning recognised by some gnarly old banker and not by you! But more generally, and especially as you will be wearing them with a solid navy or grey suit, they do smack of uniform. Not that you shouldn't ever wear a stripey tie, but with your requirements, I think it might be low on the list. And secondly, the first tie you picked is I think quite presentable.

    ET: Clag is right about the shantung, but I think both grenadines are fine, and there's nothing wrong with purple as a conservative tie choice. It's lovely with a grey suit. I'll come back to grenadines, though.

    Vanda: I don't have any Vanda ties (I should add "yet" as they look great and I love their ethos), but I think your first two here are a bit too soft and casual. The last one is OK, but there are better.

    So, to actual recommendations:

    If we're taking navy ties as read, then the colours I mentioned above are the priorities I think. And the consensus advice on neat small patterns as your default, is bang on. I'd go as far as to say that neats are all you need, actually in preference to solids at all, for the simple reason that you're so restricted in your choice of suit and shirt. There is very little texture or pattern in your professional wardrobe, and a good outfit needs some. All smooth and solid (and this is something I've improved on myself after seeing good examples on the forum over the last year or so), is dull and lifeless. As you're stuck with solid white or blue shirts, solid grey or blue suits, and a simple white square at most, the tie is all you have left.

    Sure, a heavy grenadine has texture that works a bit like a pattern. But a neat is a good place to be. If you do want a solid or two, I'd skip past the fine grenadines though. The transparency makes them a little light and whimsical for CBD I think. A better choice of textured solid might be a heavy wool or cashmere herringbone: neat and smooth, not at all rustic, but with a weight and subtle pattern that had some character. There are some interesting linen ties around that can pull off a similar trick in the summer. Not that you couldn't get away with a grenadine, I just think there are better options for you right now - SF compliance aside.

    Neat madders or similar are really versatile. The Panta suggestions are great - I wore the green one today (a coluur that no longer seems to be in stock). But they are quite earthy in tone, and if you want something more "city", then a Macclesfield might be more you. The burgundy one you chose from Vanda would be a solid choice - though Vanda also has this flowery one that I think is lovely. If you do like the madders, then Panta's rust and burgundy options are begging for your attention.

    While we're in winter time, a wool tie like this from Exquisite Trimmings, or a herringbone like this from the same, would be good friends to you. And in the warmer months, perhaps you could even throw is something a little lighter and brighter, like this from Henry Carter. And if that's not quite C enough for your BD, then that might be the time for your grenadine, in a suitably muted colour. Don't wear a black one though. I know Sean Connery wore a black knit in the iGent's favourite movie reference, but it really isn't right for CBD and a completely black/grey/white outfit sucks all the colour out of you. Navy is OK. Rust, burgundy or green would be lovely.

    That's all for now. If you're going to buy two ties today, I can't say anything more sensible than "get the rust and the burgundy madders from Panta".
     
    2 people like this.
  17. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Great thread, thanks for setting up clags. More thoughts when I get to work.

    Some good suggestions already.
     
  18. Rudals

    Rudals Senior member

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    Meanwhile in DC today...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
  19. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    The "homework" was revealing. I think Clags is being slightly generous with his scoring. Judging this purely by rudals' own purposes, I'd have said 0/3, 1/3, 2/3 respectively.

    I think the first green/red stripe Cappelli would work very nicely indeed with a mid-grey suit... but as rudals seems to like navy, nope. The second would be nice with a casual summer look, but again that's not what he wears. The third I just don't like at all.

    The first Exq. Trim. tie looks indigo/purple-ish on my monitor rather than navy, so I wouldn't choose it for a genuinely conservative workplace. The second is summer casual again. The third solid green is fine.

    The first & third Vandas would be great in even a conservative office. I tend not to like any multistripe, so would veer away from the second. Also, it's too casual for his apparently restrictive office.


    But surely the ultimate tie for Noodles is this:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 7, 2014
    1 person likes this.

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