1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

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Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, Jan 6, 2014.

  1. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    Shirt seems rather tight in the chest area. Can you move around in it freely?
    Pants seem to be too tight as well...
     


  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]



    This.
     


  3. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    These are the same size and cut as some of my better fitting chinos. I agree these ones don't look great. Hopefully my Noodle's weight loss challenge will correct it a bit.

    Didn't notice at all until you said something. I have no trouble moving in it at all. I feel like it fits very well. I'm not getting any pulling at the buttons, but I do see what you guys are saying with the wrinkling near the chest/armpits. What adjustment would you recommend I ask Luxire to make on the next shirt? + 0.5" in the chest?
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2014


  4. jrd617

    jrd617 Stylish Dinosaur

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    What size and cut/make are those?

    Doesn't look like they have enough material in the front or back. Are you sure you haven't pulled a noodles and are trying to shoehorn yourself into too small a size?

     


  5. kulata

    kulata Distinguished Member

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    Luv2breformed, the problem is more of luxire not accounting for your sloping shoulders. It's a common problem with their shirts, you will notice that the wrinkles dissappear if you shrug your shoulders up. Try it. Of course you should add a touch to the chest, around 0.25 inches, but the wrinkles near your armpit won't dissappear unless they address the slope.
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2014


  6. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Distinguished Member

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    Yeah, .5 or 1" to the chest. My Luxire oxfords have shrunken quite a bit, so take that into account as well.
     


  7. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    But ask them to add it to the front panels only, as you seem to have plenty of room in the back.
     


  8. Robstrongo

    Robstrongo Senior Member

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    I would be interested in the light grey flannel and possibly the brown pair depending on the thigh measurements. I ordered the light grey flannel and unfortunately had to return them because the thigh measurement was nowhere near what Ed had listed on the sizing chart on the site.
     


  9. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    These are brooks brothers Milano size 33 advantage chino. I got torn a new one here when I posted size 32 previously. I just posted a fit yesterday in the mc casual thread wearing Milano size 33 chino and everyone said they fit great. The difference my be between their standard and their "advantage chino". Regardless, they are too low rise for my preference anyway, and I won't be purchasing more of them.
     


  10. AJL

    AJL Distinguished Member

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    I can check in a while, and post up some pics as well, though perhaps it's better to do this via pm, so it doesn't become a b&s ext? Just a thought (have received several pms already). Perhaps I can post up pics here and interested parties can contact me via pm?
     


  11. luv2breformed

    luv2breformed Senior Member

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    Thanks for the great stuff, guys. Shrugging the shoulders indeed made the wrinkles disappear entirely. Should I ask for any additional fabric rather than .5 in the chest in order to account for shrinkage?
     


  12. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    A good shirt company should adjust for shrinkage if you tell them your target measurement. Will depend on the fabric.

    Also before adding or subtracting now is probably a good time to take body measurements too and see what the allowances are. For example it's standard I think to allow for four inches at waist for even RTW slim in many cases. Three inches would be pushing it leading to gaping when you sit. You want to know where you're at now, shirt measurement relative to body measurement.

    That said, a striking amount of folding in the back. It looks darted but might still slim it, taking from back panel. But note your waist measurement.

    And always do adjustments in small increments. Go a few shirts at a time. Don't assume a single adjustment will clearly be perfect. MTM is a process and sometimes alng one. Big orders only at the end. My 2cents.
     


  13. Evolve

    Evolve Senior Member

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    Hey Noodle folks, luv2b's pics have prompted me to finally take the plunge and try a Kamakura BD collar shirt, even though their sizing is less than ideal. I'm not sure what fabric to go with. I want this shirt to be as versatile as possible, i.e. able to wear it alone with chinos or dressed up with a worsted suit and tie. I normally prefer a spread collar with a suit, but I think Kamakura's BD collars look great with suits (especially in Henry Carter's fits).

    I'm going with a solid blue, but what weave? Regular oxford, pinpoint, royal oxford, or dobby? My thoughts are that regular oxford would be just a bit too casual to go wear with a worsted suit, but preferable when wearing the shirt with no jacket. Royal oxford or pinpoint would be better when wearing with a suit, but less than optimal when wearing alone with chinos. And I'm not entirely sure what dobby is. Anyone care to educate me?

    ^ Just kinda thinking out loud hear. Would appreciate any thoughts on the matter. If I can find a fit/size that works for me, I'll eventually get several Kamakuras, but for now, I'm looking for something of a OneShirt. :foo:
     
    Last edited: May 31, 2014


  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    this is something i rarely say, but that must be killed with fire. there is nothing good that could come of that monstrosity.
    that is amazing.
    indeed i am. though right now i am focusing my efforts on spam more than anything else.
     


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Some people say you've been focusing on it for a while now. Zing!





    Just kidding. Thanks for the spaminating, Stitchy.
     


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