gennaro paone: former head tailor of rubinacci

[Coxsackie]

What's his payment structure? That is, what percentage paid up front and when is the balance payable?

If you can convince him to make a side trip to Australia before or after HK, I'm sure there would be a lengthy queue of clients. In fact, I'd make sure of it.

 

[chobochobo]

That's not too far off. That's a quick pace.

 

[Grammaton Cleric]



What's his payment structure? That is, what percentage paid up front and when is the balance payable?

If you can convince him to make a side trip to Australia before or after HK, I'm sure there would be a lengthy queue of clients. In fact, I'd make sure of it.

Ha - not sure I'd label HK-to-AUS a 'side trip'

 

[Coxsackie]

Sure it is. About half the commuting time as Napoli-HK. Direct flights. Similar time zone. A mere bagatelle.

And not to forget...Australia is now officially per-capita the richest country in the world.

 

[il_colonnello]



I think I was 24 or 25 when I first went bespoke. Aside from one suit that I sold for stylistic purposes, it all still fits and I am 29. I have taken some of it in actually while others went out. Who knows, I think some of it is based on what I was feeling at the fitting. No drastic weight changes have left anything unserviceable.

Whats the big deal of outgrowing your bespoke suit?

At least it is better than getting a women pregant before 25 isnt it?

I think a suit with couple years of life spam is pretty fair. No matter it is bespoke or not.

I don't agree with that; I don't think "a couple of years useful life" is fair at all - not even for decent RTW, still less a bespoke product.

When I read the first sentence ("I was 24 or 25...") I thought it was going to continue "...and now I'm 36/42/whatever and I still wear them all/none have fallen apart."

4-5 years (seasons!, more strictly speaking) seems like the average use most people get out of run-of-the-mill RTW. I'm sure most people who spend 4-digit dollars/euros on a single garment expect a longer useful life than that.

 

[Xancatrius]

If he commissions something, I recommend asking for a moderate-low gorge. That way, his suit -- like him -- will never date.

If you mean date as in age, then that's mighty nice of you to say.

If you mean date as in to engage in the chasing and wooing of a woman, then I think that's rather uncalled for.

Of course I'm nitpicking here and I'd do best to just laugh it off, but I do hope you take it by now that my age really has nothing to do with my bespoke leanings.

Maybe I blame StyleForum for the ability to instantly spot a gaping jacket collar, a tight armhole, a short jacket skirt and the like, but to ask me to stick to a tailor who will just not do my eyes justice anymore simply because I am young and inexperienced is something I cannot take.

Not to say I do not want the advice. In fact I am thankful that you gents actually would like me to save some money. But I go in with my eyes open as to what to expect, and within reason too.

I hope this will be the last I have to say about this matter regarding my age and supposed "inexperience". I bear no ill will towards anyone, and would be happy to meet any of you esteemed gents if any of you happen to be in Napoli around the time or even stay there.

With regards to the post above mine, I think I have stressed ad nauseam that I know what I will be getting myself into and that my body structure would very well change. If I get a few good years out of it I'd be happy. Then when my body structure settles down and my VBC grey suit is out of commission, I'll just get a Loro Piana grey suit. I think this state of mind is actually much more conservative and economical than splashing 850 dollars on a printed Givenchy t shirt that people my age constantly do. I do know the value of money, but I also do know the value that bespoke brings to me, and that is something I am willing to accept for the price.

To get this back on track, I'd be happy to go for the next HK trunk show of Gennaro's, when the date is confirmed.

 

[Coxsackie]

Just do it, Xan. You'll probably end up blowing way less money than old fools like me, who can't stop themselves kopping questionable and wholly unnecessary items which they almost immediately regret.

(OK, my choices are getting a little better now, thanks partially to SF.)

 

[Tried and True]



I know what I will be getting myself into and that my body structure would very well change. If I get a few good years out of it I'd be happy.

Just don't buy too much and you should be ok. Most men eat themselves out of their wardrobe rather than grow out of it.

 

[emptym]



The more I look at this, the more I like it. The shoulder line seems to be free of the bump that has been on many of the Rubi jackets I've seen on this forum (perhaps most visible on mafoofan's commissions). I wonder why that is?

I thumbed this after reading just the first part. No idea what you mean by the bump.

 

[luk-cha]

having seen @kolecho's linen jacket IRL it is perhaps one of the better balanced jackets i have seen, classic in it proportions, drape in the right places light neat hand stitching plus been a great color

 

[akoustas]

@Xancatrius Just do it if you want. If you're a more slender build you should be fine for some time. Enjoy the trip and enjoy the experience. You're absolutely right, you could drop $2000 on a leather jacket or whatever crap kids with money spend things on or you could get yourself something that could give you a bit more utility (I'm not much older and I can still remember guys I know dropping a grand on bottle service of all things...).

If this is your first commission, why not start somewhere a bit less flashy (and expensive) than Rubinacci? I'm no expert but I'm sure there are many here that could lead you to a fine Neapolitan tailor.

 

[Despos]

Xancatrius, If you are ready to have a suit made just do it but erase everything form your mind about what you've been told and you will walk away from the experience with something different than you anticipated.

It is highly probable you will gain an understanding of what your actual fitting issues are. Things you may not have been aware of. You will learn how clothes can fit and how different clothes fit when they are cut specifically for you. There is a feel to the clothes that you can't grasp until you have something made. These are the more intangible aspects of custom clothing that you aren't aware of until you try if for yourself.

If you have the opportunity to work with Gennaro, it will be a rewarding experience. Let him do his thing but try to communicate how you want the clothes to fit according to what feels good to you. How loose or close to the body you like the jacket and the trouser. Leave it to him to build in a good proportion of design elements for you. This will be a good way to learn what your stylistic aesthetic is.

There is the chance of your size changing for a number of reasons at any age. Don't worry about it. I know lot's of clients who had things made at a younger age than you.

 

[Victor Elfo]

If I had read this years before, my earlier commissions (started at the age of 20, btw) would be much better.

 

[dieworkwear]



I thumbed this after reading just the first part. No idea what you mean by the bump.

If you look at the shoulder line of mafoofan's jackets, it's slightly wavy. I've wondered in the past if it's not just a curved shoulder (upside down U shape) paired with a high collar, which makes the shoulder line look wavier than it is.

 

[poorsod]



If you look at the shoulder line of mafoofan's jackets, it's slightly wavy. I've wondered in the past if it's not just a curved shoulder (upside down U shape) paired with a high collar, which makes the shoulder line look wavier than it is.

I think there are variations accentuated by the individuals shoulder and trapezius. I had a whole discussion of it in the NSM thread complete with red lines and etc.