The Unofficial Sartoria Pastena Elegance Naples Thread

[xizenta]

I am starting a thread for Antonio Pastena.
This is a small Neapolitan tailoring house who has started doing some trunk shows in the United States and Paris. I understand they opened in 2014 after the father and son had years of experience at Panico, Kiton, and then Rubinacci.

He just did a couple shows in Minneapolis - one of which I visited, after flying out from Los Angeles to meet him. He would like to do a few visits to Los Angeles in late September or some time in October. His English is decent and he is happy to discuss pricing and options over WhatsApp, where he is very communicative and helpful. Pricing is competitive, somewhere in the range of high-end MTM or the better Hong Kong outfits with one or two fittings. I would post more details about prices here but since he is just at the start of his trunk show availability and has very little name recognition on the internet, that information will probably quickly become outdated and depressed.

He does have an instagram here with some additional photos. In my opinion, he could be more selective about what's posted there as some of the content is not flattering (sometimes poor taste by the client or a bad photo), but based on a few very good results I can see that he is more than capable. When I met him in Minneapolis I got to look at about a half-dozen jackets he had as works in progress there for fittings with clients and can say there was a lot of hand work and he was ready to discuss construction and methodology to my satisfaction. I gave him a length of Dugdale 120s Wool and Cashmere along with an Attolini Jacket and a pair of trousers which already fit me quite well for reference as to how to shape and pad my shoulders and pleats. I will do my basted fitting at the first trunk show in LA with more feedback.

If you can make it to a trunk show in Los Angeles in late September or mid October please let me know to receive further information. Trunk shows would be done in a series of 2 visits with measurements and ordering at the first and a basted fit at the second. Final garments mailed to customers directly.

 

[xizenta]

I have just confirmed with Antonio that his Los Angeles visit will be October 10th through October 13th, 2022. Please contact me if you would like to schedule an appointment during his stay.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Glad to see Pastena expanding out and adding more cities to his tours. I’ve used him remotely and at trunk shows in Minneapolis and been very happy with the results.

A little feedback from someone who has used him. I will say his cut is decidedly modern Neapolitan and thus on the shorter side (they’ve all still covered my butt just on the short end of SF approved.) That being said Antonio been great to work with, very open to feedback on my commissions and is very passionate about his craft.

My two latest commissions I’ve taken delivery of.

 

[Sreezy36]

Unless anything changes, I will be out in LA for the trunk show

 

[comrade]

Glad to see Pastena expanding out and adding more cities to his tours. I’ve used him remotely and at trunk shows in Minneapolis and been very happy with the results.

A little feedback from someone who has used him. I will say his cut is decidedly modern Neapolitan and thus on the shorter side (they’ve all still covered my butt just on the short end of SF approved.) That being said Antonio been great to work with, very open to feedback on my commissions and is very passionate about his craft.

My two latest commissions I’ve taken delivery of.

View attachment 1826913 View attachment 1826914

Very nice. Jacket cut the way I prefer, minus the patch pockets, of course.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Very nice. Jacket cut the way I prefer, minus the patch pockets, of course.

I opted for jetted pockets on an earlier remote 4 ply. Did patch on more casual summer fabrics.

 

[xizenta]

I opted for jetted pockets on an earlier remote 4 ply. Did patch on more casual summer fabrics.

That looks so good. I actually like it better than your later jackets. What did you change about the fit? More waist suppression?

 

[JohnMRobie]

That looks so good. I actually like it better than your later jackets. What did you change about the fit? More waist suppression?

Think the changes were - stress eating during the 3rd trimester, stop riding the peloton and go on paternity leave.

 

[xizenta]

Think the changes were - stress eating during the 3rd trimester, stop riding the peloton and go on paternity leave.

haha. So you didn't adjust the jacket pattern? How did you like the 4-ply in summer weather?

 

[Crispyj]

My jacket. Antontio will pass by NYC for 2 days, October 8th-9th.

 

[JohnMRobie]

haha. So you didn't adjust the jacket pattern? How did you like the 4-ply in summer weather?

I’d have to double check what all we did but went longer on length of the tobacco linen. Lowered the breast pocket slightly. More open quarters on both. 0.5cm shorter sleeve length.

The body remained the same.

 

[xizenta]

I’d have to double check what all we did but went longer on length of the tobacco linen. Lowered the breast pocket slightly. More open quarters on both. 0.5cm shorter sleeve length.

The body remained the same.

Good choice on the breast pocket. I didn't notice at first but he did place it rather high on the first one.

@Crispyj that jacket is sexy AF. Love the lapels.

 

[JohnMRobie]

My jacket. Antontio will pass by NYC for 2 days, October 8th-9th.
View attachment 1827069

This is so good.

Maybe we should change this thread to just an unofficial Pastena thread like the unofficial i-Sarti thread.

I know there’s a decent number of us on here who aren’t LA but use him. Based on the comment above he’s also stopping in NY. I believe he’s also considering going back to Minneapolis, Milan and Paris again. Athens and Dubai also were on his radar. Seems better than limiting it.

Maybe @xizenta can ask @emptym to change the name or something.

Either way I’m hijacking this thread for that purpose.

Glad the August holiday is over and he’s back in the lab. Probably more projects in the hopper than I ought to have but with the weak Euro and wanting to get in before the line gets too long as he gets better known I went a little overboard for this fall’s commissions and am excited for each project for its own reason. Four projects coming up for this fall/winter.

A length of the LL RAF Agnelli will become a suit. With confidence based on the pattern matching on @Crispyj project above.

A length of Taylor & Lodge 2080 Vintage worsted flannel in navy to be made into a suit:

A length of Marling Evans wool for a jacket:

And I didn’t have a “great” navy jacket. Still finalizing details but super excited for this to become a jacket:

 

[JohnMRobie]

I’m sure I’m forgetting some guys. But flagging what I’m dubbing the unofficial Pastena thread that I’m hijacking from being an LA trunk show thread. @Psyko @Marshak @DavidLane @Wilson13 @Megakurth @Adhazem

 

[Marshak]

Having tried younger neapolitan tailors I can say Antonio's cut is still on the classic side regarding the volume and the length of the jacket. It can be seen on @Jmr928 orders. It's closer to Zizolfi (with less structure to the shoulders) or to Paone than to Dalcuore and slimmer houses. If he is accurately driven he can produce many fits depending on what you want.