First bespoke shoe? What to get?

[poorsod]

I'll give you my thinking process. I wanted something that I could wear all the time - you get the most value if it is something you can wear often. So I chose black calf because you can wear it in just about any situation. Also I lacked black shoes, other than for 1 black Jodhpur, the rest were brown.

But I did want something unique. I like wholecuts and my understanding is that wholecuts are best with a custom last. But YMMV as people may or may not like wholecuts. However, I still wanted something out of the ordinary but I didn't know what. One night I saw a stylish gentleman wear a black sidelaced wholecut and I thought that's perfect for me. It is both unique and versatile. 99% of people (non-SF) will not notice that you are wearing a sidelaced whole cut.

Bespoke is a personal choice. Unfortunately sometimes too much choice. You have to understand yourself and know what you like and what is lacking in your "shoerobe".

 

[tlmusic]

Originally Posted by jamaican

Perhaps there are technical matters to be considered: For example, my cutter (I can say that in this forum and sound perfectly reasonable) explained that when making my first bespoke suit, the first one was a "prototype"... far better than an off the rack or MTM, but still shy of the ultimate cut he would undertake for me. The second would be better and by the third suit he would have pretty much nailed the cut. Is it the same for bespoke shoes?

I would also like to know if this is typical for bespoke shoes, as I am (patiently) waiting to receive my first pair. What do the most experienced SFers say? Does one typically need to commission three pairs before the maker will get it right?


BTW, I went with black punch caps--Although Manton suggests black stitch caps, I went with punch caps. Gotta have a little fun...

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by tlmusic

BTW, I went with black punch caps--Although Manton suggests black stitch caps, I went with punch caps. Gotta have a little fun...

I have bespoke black stitch caps too. They are my finest shoes.

The only reason I suggest black stitch caps for a first pair is because they are such an essential shoe. You will always have occasion too wear them, and go-to garments like that are nice bespoke. It's like having a bespoke blue blazer or gray worsted suit.

 

[tlmusic]

These shoe look awesome!

Are they a bespoke order? Unlike the G&G Hughes, the stitch on the U throat
is curved.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by tlmusic

What do the most experienced SFers say? Does one typically need to commission three pairs before the maker will get it right?

No, but like Manton said: "Keep it simple" with your first commission.

Understood, there is mostly sort of a develepment, due to your growing experience.

 

[luk-cha]

J

as most have said "keep the first shoe simple" and i would also recomemd you get it in black (as this i am guessing you will get the most use from living in London) too then for you second and third dark brown and bugundy in which ever order you prefer.

for my first shoe i'd get one of these designs

i think the key in even these classics is in the details like with mine i made the adelaide design more contempory but without it beeing too out there. if i was gonna do it all over again i would just go with the plain cap toe like in the second picture.

as for which maker you will choose i would say that is totally personal as all are about the same price, personally i'd go to G&G or Cleverleys but YMMV and the choice is totally personal

 

[Girardian]

As an addendum to the "keep it simple" mantra I would add the following:

If you have a penchant for a touch of flair, don't restrain yourself so long as it is befitting of the shoe and is something you'll be happy with over the long term.

I regret that my first bespoke suit was too conservative and classic -- I enjoy it but it bores me a bit. Had I opted for a ticket pocket or perhaps even peak lapels I think I would have a suit that I felt expressed both timeless taste as well as personal style.

 

[culverwood]

I went the fantasy way for my first bespoke shoe. Like you I will not wear my bespoke shoes to work even though I am the boss.

I chose a whole cut elastic sided which may not have been the wisest choice as I understand now that a lace up is easier to produce as a first bespoke shoe. The other side of the argument is that if they are going to have to get your last really right they may as well do it the first time although it may take much longer.

There is always a chance to buy the standard shoes in a wide variety of lasts from many makers, one or which will fit almost everyone. It is the fantasy shoe you will not be able to find off the peg which makes me go for bespoke. Don't go for a black cap toe please.

Having said all that I respect the opinion that the classic shoe is the one to go for I just do not agree with it.

 

[Golf_Nerd]

IMO:

Get a classic and simple one.

But:

What kind of suits do you wear?
And will the design fit your personality?

Ask your wife and the cobbler. Keep us informed!

 

[jamaican]

Generally speaking, I tend to only wear suits to work and to other formal occasions such as weddings. These shoes will never see my work suits to be honest. I will not wear bespoke shoes to work.

My "outside of work" suits are being commissioned and are a bit more fancy in terms of the fabric and a tiny bit different as to cut. I reckon I will wear brown or non-black shoes (although I do like the antique black shoe that Mr Gomez has on his site).

My usual non-work attire is based on jeans (or odd trousers) and sport jacket combo. Perhaps I should get something to go with that as it will get the most wear by far. Then move into the "non-work suit" front which is far more occasional - in both senses of the word. J

 

[culverwood]

If you normally wear jeans and sports jackets something along the lines of the JM Weston “Chasse” or maybe a Chelsea boot or perhaps a loafer of whichever type you like would be a possibility.

In your position I would visit the makers and talk it over with them. This will be easy with Cleverley and Fosters a little more difficult with G&G. You should see something there along the lines of what you want or be inspired enough to make a decision on something individual.

 

[luk-cha]

then i might be tempted to get a bespoke Mitchell 2 peice (rear seemles) in a vintage rioja or cognac then if you are not considering them for biz use

 

[jamaican]

Luk-cha What is the third shoe in your beauty parade? Is it Lobb... what I can see of the shoe trees looks like it: It is sublime... Love the shape of it. The first shoe (G&G)- I have drooled over before, but the the thrid pic is just scrumptious... I feel a chitty chitty bang bang song coming on!

The short list is: a captoe Oxford - perhaps in an antique black (sorry to the purists and to the don't do the classic guys alike); a simple wingtip brogue in a tan leather (I'd wear that with almost anything smart casual); or a semi-brogue without heel counter (in burgundy antiqued).

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by jamaican

What is the third shoe in your beauty parade? Is it Lobb

Delos

 

[Kuro]

Originally Posted by fritzl

Delos

more pics of it here: http://depiedencap.leforum.eu/t2752-...os.htm?q=delos