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First Bespoke Jacket - Advice please!

naviC

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Finally got down to getting my first bespoke jacket made. I ended up deciding going with a local tailor for a SB 2 button notch lapel SC.

Since it's my first jacket, I got my mate to take some pictures of the baste and would really appreciate any helpful criticism anyone can give! (apologies in advance for the poor quality and awkward angles, forgot to direct my cameraman)




The tailor already had suggested the following changes; i'm not sure how it is planned to address them but here they are


1) tidy up the back as there seemed to be some bunching on the lower portions, let some cloth out on the upper back as it did feel a tad hard to stretch forward (hugging test)
2) add a teeny bit of waist suppression
3) raise the neck scye
4) adjust to accommodate the dropped shoulders

personally felt the jacket was a little short, but i'm not sure how long it should actually be especially since i'm not that tall (5foot 6).
 

GBR

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Very difficult to determine anything from the baste.

A tad too short possibly - the rule about covering you backside obtains however tall you are/are not.
 

CousinDonuts

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Would be helpful to know what look you are going for....classic, modern, fashion forward...higher/lower button stances....higher/lower notch....skinny/normal/wide lapels.....more fitted or boxier....otherwise you're just asking people to give opinions on what they would want instead of helping you get to what you want.
 
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RDiaz

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Your tailor suggested more waist suppression on a jacket that looks already tight? I wouldn't do it...
 

naviC

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Would be helpful to know what look you are going for....classic, modern, fashion forward...higher/lower button stances....higher/lower notch....skinny/normal/wide lapels.....more fitted or boxier....otherwise you're just asking people to give opinions on what they would want instead of helping you get to what you want.
I do apologize for that, I am rather clueless on how to go about this still. I really enjoy the look of classic suits, to Vox's and DocHolliday jackets. I am looking to get a low notch, wide lapels, lower button stance and a 'boxier' fit if that is how you would describe it. Not too sure if the baste describes what I have said, but added a spoiler of some jackets I like.


DocHolliday



VoxSartoria



Your tailor suggested more waist suppression on a jacket that looks already tight? I wouldn't do it...
does it look tight? I thought it looked rather full. was thinking of getting more drape around the button point.
 

RDiaz

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There seems to be some pulling at the button, so yes, it does look tight. A long front balance can also create diagonal wrinkles at the button, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
 

naviC

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There seems to be some pulling at the button, so yes, it does look tight. A long front balance can also create diagonal wrinkles at the button, but that doesn't seem to be the case.
I will get that dealt with at the next fitting. Will take more pictures at my next fitting!
 

naviC

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Am quite pleased with the outcome of my first bespoke jacket so far. Any critique for the fit would be greatly appreciated!
 

Pieceofsand

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I've seen better looking RTW
 

Veremund

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I think the length is fine since you're a shorter dude. The jacket the way it is helps create the illusion of height.
 

CousinDonuts

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Jacket length is a personal preference, but in that profile shot it does appear to need a little more length in the back. To my eye, it appears that the line from front to back is rising.
 

Punjabjat

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Like the length, the front looks a tad tight, but the back looks a bit loose...
 

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