Filson Bag Thread: With Pictures

[seven20]

Which bag do you guys like as an everyday work bag for someone who dressed anywhere from business attire to smart casual?

I have been carrying the 257 since Dec 2015 and absolutely love the bag. In my current role I would be just as happy with a smaller 256, but I’m not changing what I have. I’m curious to see how many years I can get from it.
Edit: same dress code at my company as you have.

 

[audog]

Which bag do you guys like as an everyday work bag for someone who dressed anywhere from business attire to smart casual?

I don't go in every day anymore, just 2 half days a week as a "consultant" to the place I retried from, carried a 256 for years and now use either a 240 or a 24hour depending on how much "stuff" I want to carry. I find the 240 to be just about the perfect size for what I need now, but like the organization of the 24 hour bag a bit more. Oh, dress code prior to retirement was 100% business (suit/tie) attire, and now - 3 yrs on- it's business casual. Tan Filson bags can handle either.

 

[TimothyF]

Does anyone find Filson's flagship product (flagship in the sense of being around since Filson's founding) underwhelming? I'm speaking of course of the Mackinaw cruiser coat. I handled my father's Double Mackinaw in olive green that he got in the 70s or 80s, and I found both the fabric and sewing to be underwhelming. The wool is lighter and felt looser woven than the wool on my grandfather's bespoke topcoat that I inherited (that one was probably made in the 50s). But the stitching is rudimentary and of a quality that I don't think matches Filson's price. (Quite frankly it reminds me a little of the "authentic" reproduction Civil War era uniforms, which are purposely made with crooked stitching to be true to the Union side's sloppiness)

I'm talking of inside seams with exposed raw fabric ends, not properly tucked into the seams to be unseen. Buttonholes are sewn then cut, leaving the fabric exposed; and not the other way around, which is done on all quality suits and coats. I do credit Filson for the good design and the abundance of pockets, although 1-2 large vertical pockets on the inside would be nice. And I think someone has touched on the lack of smooth lining, especially for the sleeves.

This is the first coat of this style I've seen in person, so I don't know if the fabric and construction is similar to Pendleton, LL Bean, and the like.

 

[TinMan3]

Does anyone find Filson's flagship product (flagship in the sense of being around since Filson's founding) underwhelming? I'm speaking of course of the Mackinaw cruiser coat. I handled my father's Double Mackinaw in olive green that he got in the 70s or 80s, and I found both the fabric and sewing to be underwhelming. The wool is lighter and felt looser woven than the wool on my grandfather's bespoke topcoat that I inherited (that one was probably made in the 50s). But the stitching is rudimentary and of a quality that I don't think matches Filson's price. (Quite frankly it reminds me a little of the "authentic" reproduction Civil War era uniforms, which are purposely made with crooked stitching to be true to the Union side's sloppiness)

I'm talking of inside seams with exposed raw fabric ends, not properly tucked into the seams to be unseen. Buttonholes are sewn then cut, leaving the fabric exposed; and not the other way around, which is done on all quality suits and coats. I do credit Filson for the good design and the abundance of pockets, although 1-2 large vertical pockets on the inside would be nice. And I think someone has touched on the lack of smooth lining, especially for the sleeves.

This is the first coat of this style I've seen in person, so I don't know if the fabric and construction is similar to Pendleton, LL Bean, and the like.

I totally respect your opinion and observations. I think the only thing I would say is that the mackinaw cruiser is one of the most time tested items in Filsons lineup. I’ve never seen one fully wear out, and I’ve never seen one with extensive damage (other than moth damage which is a result of the material, not the construction). I haven’t personally experienced most of what you are referring to and I own/have owned a lot of different mackinaw garments made in Filsons factories. What I can say absolutely 100% for sure is that the construction and materials of the current mackinaw cruiser is incomparable to current LL bean or Pendleton. Not even close. I would challenge you if you truly are interested in getting an informed opinion on the quality of this coat, get one and use it a LOT. See for yourself why it is the flagship item or confirm your own opinion. I’ve never had one fail me and have used these garments for years.

The one thing I will say about mackinaw wool is it’s not wind proof, so it will not be the garment of choice on a very windy day. This hasn’t been an issue for me often but once in a while it is a minor annoyance.

 

[TimothyF]

I totally respect your opinion and observations. I think the only thing I would say is that the mackinaw cruiser is one of the most time tested items in Filsons lineup. I’ve never seen one fully wear out, and I’ve never seen one with extensive damage (other than moth damage which is a result of the material, not the construction). I haven’t personally experienced most of what you are referring to and I own/have owned a lot of different mackinaw garments made in Filsons factories. What I can say absolutely 100% for sure is that the construction and materials of the current mackinaw cruiser is incomparable to current LL bean or Pendleton. Not even close. I would challenge you if you truly are interested in getting an informed opinion on the quality of this coat, get one and use it a LOT. See for yourself why it is the flagship item or confirm your own opinion. I’ve never had one fail me and have used these garments for years.

The one thing I will say about mackinaw wool is it’s not wind proof, so it will not be the garment of choice on a very windy day. This hasn’t been an issue for me often but once in a while it is a minor annoyance.

I'm not saying the coat isn't durable; I don't have any personal experience with it. The fact that the coat in my hand was 30-40 years old can attest to the Mackinaw's longevity. I am saying that the finishing is on the rougher side, and Filson could have expended, what, 10% additional labor and materials cost and given us a more professionally finished garment. If you'd like, I'll snap some pictures the next time I can, and we can compare the details with your jacket (although I think my descriptions went to some length).

All this being said, I still think it is a cool coat, with the cape and back poacher's pocket; it's just that the insides have a lot of exposed raw seams that could be avoided if Filson took a little more care. Does that mean the Cruiser will fall apart tomorrow? No. But I do think the little details add up to a marginally better and tougher garment.

And lastly, I wasn't referring to present-day LL Bean or Pendleton wool shirt-jackets, if they even still have them in their lineups. I'm talking to heyday wool coats, frequently with the red/black check, made in USA, by Pendleton (for sure) and LL Bean (I have a feeling they made a similar coat to the Mackinaw back in the day, but am not sure).

 

[OtterMeanGreen]

I'm not saying the coat isn't durable; I don't have any personal experience with it. The fact that the coat in my hand was 30-40 years old can attest to the Mackinaw's longevity. I am saying that the finishing is on the rougher side, and Filson could have expended, what, 10% additional labor and materials cost and given us a more professionally finished garment. If you'd like, I'll snap some pictures the next time I can, and we can compare the details with your jacket (although I think my descriptions went to some length).

All this being said, I still think it is a cool coat, with the cape and back poacher's pocket; it's just that the insides have a lot of exposed raw seams that could be avoided if Filson took a little more care. Does that mean the Cruiser will fall apart tomorrow? No. But I do think the little details add up to a marginally better and tougher garment.

And lastly, I wasn't referring to present-day LL Bean or Pendleton wool shirt-jackets, if they even still have them in their lineups. I'm talking to heyday wool coats, frequently with the red/black check, made in USA, by Pendleton (for sure) and LL Bean (I have a feeling they made a similar coat to the Mackinaw back in the day, but am not sure).

@TinMan3 makes some excellent points. So I’m only going to briefly expand on his well thought out reply.

For starters you’re not going to find a better place to discuss this topic, as this thread is the longest running Filson discussion on the internet. Secondly, a vast majority of the regulars here own Mackinaw Cruisers from many different Era’s (at least 10 members I know of personally) and some even own more then one, and some have the Double Mackinaw Cruisers. So you’re getting firsthand knowledge from passionate Filson members who use their Cruisers for all different purposes; from city dwelling to work jackets.

Now to address some of your points. Firstly these are not light jackets. You can definitely pull off 3 seasons in a 24OZ Single Mackinaw with only light layering and Double Mack’s are as you would imagine, Double in wool goodness. My 2019 Single Mack is the warmest and heaviest coat I have ever owned in my 35 years of life. It’s also the most structurally sound too, but will get to that point soon.

You said yourself that you don’t have any experience with the Filson Mackinaw, so don’t let your imagination get the best of you. This is one of the most durable coats on the market, made to last a lifetime, not just in a marketing sense, like you can expect from companies that have lost touch with most of their core audience as of late (like LL Bean). If appearance is what’s of most importance to you, then I imagine some “Bespoke” custom jacket would be of greater significance to you, that focuses more on form over function. But to those that want to “Buy Once, Cry One” or “Buy it for life” or w/e other corny phrase you can think of, we are all going to turn to the coat that has been on the market for well over 100 years, which many other companies used as template of inspiration for their designs, and many have borrowed from the Filson Mack. It’s been trusted by Prospectors, Farmhands, Cowboys, Soldiers, Forest Rangers, Hunters, outdoorsmen...and yes even City dwellers for more then a century. Many have been past down generations too.

I would seriously doubt that the finishing or exposed interior seams were a tipping point for whether or not they put their trust into a product that can and have saved lives before, seeing as how this coat keeps warmth even when soaking with water. I can’t speak for anyone else but myself here, and I must say that I don’t look at my Mack as being “underwhelming or rudimentary” and when I see things like raw seams, I understand that it is by design.

Hope that helps you, and welcome to the conversation. We have a great group here and it’s a very respectful conversation, which is rare these days with forums.

Here are some great articles on the Mackinaw Cruiser you might find helpful.

Review: Filson Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket

The Filson Mackinaw Cruiser wool jacket is a legend in the outdoor community — an American-made garment design that’s been around since 1914.

www.offgridweb.com

"Made in the USA" Gear Review: Filson Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket & Field Pants- Classic Bushcrafting Chic for the 21st Century

Gear Reviews, Mountain Bushcrafting and Wilderness Survival of a Rocky Mountain kind!

rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com

 

[TimothyF]

@TinMan3 makes some excellent points. So I’m only going to briefly expand on his well thought out reply.

For starters you’re not going to find a better place to discuss this topic, as this thread is the longest running Filson discussion on the internet. Secondly, a vast majority of the regulars here own Mackinaw Cruisers from many different Era’s (at least 10 members I know of personally) and some even own more then one, and some have the Double Mackinaw Cruisers. So you’re getting firsthand knowledge from passionate Filson members who use their Cruisers for all different purposes; from city dwelling to work jackets.

Now to address some of your points. Firstly these are not light jackets. You can definitely pull off 3 seasons in a 24OZ Single Mackinaw with only light layering and Double Mack’s are as you would imagine, Double in wool goodness. My 2019 Single Mack is the warmest and heaviest coat I have ever owned in my 35 years of life. It’s also the most structurally sound too, but will get to that point soon.

You said yourself that you don’t have any experience with the Filson Mackinaw, so don’t let your imagination get the best of you. This is one of the most durable coats on the market, made to last a lifetime, not just in a marketing sense, like you can expect from companies that have lost touch with most of their core audience as of late (like LL Bean). If appearance is what’s of most importance to you, then I imagine some “Bespoke” custom jacket would be of greater significance to you, that focuses more on form over function. But to those that want to “Buy Once, Cry One” or “Buy it for life” or w/e other corny phrase you can think of, we are all going to turn to the coat that has been on the market for well over 100 years, which many other companies used as template of inspiration for their designs, and many have borrowed from the Filson Mack. It’s been trusted by Prospectors, Farmhands, Cowboys, Soldiers, Forest Rangers, Hunters, outdoorsmen...and yes even City dwellers for more then a century. Many have been past down generations too.

I would seriously doubt that the finishing or exposed interior seams were a tipping point for whether or not they put their trust into a product that can and have saved lives before, seeing as how this coat keeps warmth even when soaking with water. I can’t speak for anyone else but myself here, and I must say that I don’t look at my Mack as being “underwhelming or rudimentary” and when I see things like raw seams, I understand that it is by design.

Hope that helps you, and welcome to the conversation. We have a great group here and it’s a very respectful conversation, which is rare these days with forums.

Here are some great articles on the Mackinaw Cruiser you might find helpful.

Review: Filson Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket

The Filson Mackinaw Cruiser wool jacket is a legend in the outdoor community — an American-made garment design that’s been around since 1914.

www.offgridweb.com

"Made in the USA" Gear Review: Filson Mackinaw Cruiser Jacket & Field Pants- Classic Bushcrafting Chic for the 21st Century

Gear Reviews, Mountain Bushcrafting and Wilderness Survival of a Rocky Mountain kind!

rockymountainbushcraft.blogspot.com

I appreciate all the information in this detailed response. I will peruse some of these reviews, and very well may learn some key facts that could change my opinion on this coat with a long history. For the record, I borrowed the coat for 2 hours in 20's temperature. It felt about as warm as wool of that weight should feel, no more, no less.

Like I said before, I don't think it's a bad coat by any means, nor shoddily made. Just some of the careless sewing, which shows mostly on the inside, does not live up to the Filson reputation, or to today's price point, IMO.

I apologize if my post is not in keeping with the spirit of this thread, and I'll probably stop posting on this topic. Personally, I judge any garment on its own merits. It doesn't matter what the brand is, or how many other people rave about it, if I pay with my money, it's got to live up to my standards. The Double Mackinaw is great in a lot of respects (I won't repeat them), but has some room for improvement.

P.S. You said that

My 2019 Single Mack is the warmest and heaviest coat I have ever owned in my 35 years of life. It’s also the most structurally sound too, but will get to that point soon.

I'd invite you to try a WWII era Naval Officer's bridge coat. It's knee length, of a ~30 oz wool, cuts a flattering figure, and sells on eBay in the $100-200 range for good condition. I'd wager it's just as warm, if not warmer, than your Mackinaw.

 

[TimothyF]

You said yourself that you don’t have any experience with the Filson Mackinaw, so don’t let your imagination get the best of you. This is one of the most durable coats on the market, made to last a lifetime, not just in a marketing sense, like you can expect from companies that have lost touch with most of their core audience as of late (like LL Bean). If appearance is what’s of most importance to you, then I imagine some “Bespoke” custom jacket would be of greater significance to you, that focuses more on form over function. But to those that want to “Buy Once, Cry One” or “Buy it for life” or w/e other corny phrase you can think of, we are all going to turn to the coat that has been on the market for well over 100 years, which many other companies used as template of inspiration for their designs, and many have borrowed from the Filson Mack. It’s been trusted by Prospectors, Farmhands, Cowboys, Soldiers, Forest Rangers, Hunters, outdoorsmen...and yes even City dwellers for more then a century. Many have been past down generations too.

Sorry, I re-read your post and felt I have to respond to this part. I don't think it's awfully fair to make assumptions about people based on a few Internet posts. I grant some people who "bespeak" suits do value form over function, but not all (including yours truly). For instance, custom tailors can put an action back on any tailored coat, giving you a lot of mobility in reaching forward. They can make a long coat with slitted pockets, so that you can access your pants pocket without opening your coat. Just because something is "bespoke" is no guarantee of fit or quality; there have been spectacular failures on both fronts, even by the top houses in London. Likewise, a company with over 100 years in business and many thousands of satisfied customers can have both blockbusters and duds. And their flagship products people can find legitimate issue with. For example, the Barbour Beaufort uses a cheap plastic zipper on the internal phone pocket that's prone to snap off, the Burberry trench has been outsourced and no longer has the length it used to, and what I pointed out about Filson. Always keep an open and critical mind, and I wish you many good years with your Filson gear!

 

[OtterMeanGreen]

I'd invite you to try a WWII era Naval Officer's bridge coat. It's knee length, of a ~30 oz wool, cuts a flattering figure, and sells on eBay in the $100-200 range for good condition. I'd wager it's just as warm, if not warmer, than your Mackinaw.

I wasn't aware we were debating on what is the warmest coat on the market? The purpose of my response was to point out the Century old time tested quality and durability of the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser from my own account. The coat you are referring to here is no question warmer, but seeing how it is knee length, doesn't appear to offer great mobility and a wide range of uses. After all, and this is no offense to military officers, but officers who stand on the bridge aren't really concerned with mobility, so the two coats offer little to no comparison. The Mackinaw offers a wide range of uses, from cattle farming, various forms of hunting, lumberjacks and of course your metro types in business attire. Can you name me another coat or company that offers that kind of versatility?

Sorry, I re-read your post and felt I have to respond to this part. I don't think it's awfully fair to make assumptions about people based on a few Internet posts.

What assumption are you referring to here? I was only going with what you provided me here. You said yourself that you have very little experience with the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser (or I would imagine other Filson products). I was merely pointing out to you that there is more then what just meets the eye when it comes to the Mackinaw Cruiser, and I think I provided enough examples to back that point up.

 

[Fueco]

I appreciate all the information in this detailed response. I will peruse some of these reviews, and very well may learn some key facts that could change my opinion on this coat with a long history. For the record, I borrowed the coat for 2 hours in 20's temperature. It felt about as warm as wool of that weight should feel, no more, no less.

Like I said before, I don't think it's a bad coat by any means, nor shoddily made. Just some of the careless sewing, which shows mostly on the inside, does not live up to the Filson reputation, or to today's price point, IMO.

I apologize if my post is not in keeping with the spirit of this thread, and I'll probably stop posting on this topic. Personally, I judge any garment on its own merits. It doesn't matter what the brand is, or how many other people rave about it, if I pay with my money, it's got to live up to my standards. The Double Mackinaw is great in a lot of respects (I won't repeat them), but has some room for improvement.

P.S. You said that

I'd invite you to try a WWII era Naval Officer's bridge coat. It's knee length, of a ~30 oz wool, cuts a flattering figure, and sells on eBay in the $100-200 range for good condition. I'd wager it's just as warm, if not warmer, than your Mackinaw.

Id bet my Feathered Friends Rick & Ice Parka was (I sold it because it was too warm) far warmer than both, but servers a vastly different purpose.

 

[TimothyF]

I wasn't aware we were debating on what is the warmest coat on the market? The purpose of my response was to point out the Century old time tested quality and durability of the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser from my own account. The coat you are referring to here is no question warmer, but seeing how it is knee length, doesn't appear to offer great mobility and a wide range of uses. After all, and this is no offense to military officers, but officers who stand on the bridge aren't really concerned with mobility, so the two coats offer little to no comparison. The Mackinaw offers a wide range of uses, from cattle farming, various forms of hunting, lumberjacks and of course your metro types in business attire. Can you name me another coat or company that offers that kind of versatility?

If we're going to continue this for argument's sake, then I'll just bow out. But are you trying to claim that Filson Mackinaw is the most versatile coat? First of all, how would you measure that? But if care for suggestions, then Barbour waxed jackets, shooting tweeds, even the Navy issue peacoat would all be similarly versatile.

What assumption are you referring to here? I was only going with what you provided me here. You said yourself that you have very little experience with the Filson Mackinaw Cruiser (or I would imagine other Filson products). I was merely pointing out to you that there is more then what just meets the eye when it comes to the Mackinaw Cruiser, and I think I provided enough examples to back that point up.

The assumption that I underlined above, namely that I'm a "metro type" who's into looks, unlike real folk who work and care about function. I said I don't have experience with the Filson Cruiser both to be true and out of modesty, but if you know wool coats, do you need to have 30+ years of experience with a particular specimen in order to know if it's good for you? Trust me, Mackinaw wool is good wool, but it ain't a magic garment. I inspected the Filson double Mackinaw inside and out, for a good 10 minutes, so I totally stand by my conclusions, and welcome you to debate me on the facts and not on appeals to a company's heritage (if it's debate that you want). You, on the other hand, seem not to have any experience with knee length coats, since you claim they don't "offer great mobility". Maybe for certain specialized occupations that is the case, but me and the vast majority of men a well-fitting long overcoat offers both form and function.

 

[AriGold]

I totally get the lovefest for Filson. they make nice stuff and the quality is generally pretty damn good. But at the same time I don't think TimothyF's comments are unfair. The key point is that Filson is not the most refined product and thats fine.Too much group think isnt a good thing either

 

[OtterMeanGreen]

If we're going to continue this for argument's sake, then I'll just bow out. But are you trying to claim that Filson Mackinaw is the most versatile coat? First of all, how would you measure that? But if care for suggestions, then Barbour waxed jackets, shooting tweeds, even the Navy issue peacoat would all be similarly versatile.



The assumption that I underlined above, namely that I'm a "metro type" who's into looks, unlike real folk who work and care about function. I said I don't have experience with the Filson Cruiser both to be true and out of modesty, but if you know wool coats, do you need to have 30+ years of experience with a particular specimen in order to know if it's good for you? Trust me, Mackinaw wool is good wool, but it ain't a magic garment. I inspected the Filson double Mackinaw inside and out, for a good 10 minutes, so I totally stand by my conclusions, and welcome you to debate me on the facts and not on appeals to a company's heritage (if it's debate that you want). You, on the other hand, seem not to have any experience with knee length coats, since you claim they don't "offer great mobility". Maybe for certain specialized occupations that is the case, but me and the vast majority of men a well-fitting long overcoat offers both form and function.

Can you name me another coat or company that offers that kind of versatility?

Where am I claiming the Filson Mackinaw is the most versatile?

And to answer your other question...or actually I would call it an "assumption" because you completely mischaracterized my own words. Nowhere in any of my responses did I refer to you as "metro type" and I invite you to try and prove otherwise. I mentioned the word city dweller many times in regards to the many different types of people who love these mackinaw cruisers and have for over 100 years. The only thing that I guess you could take out of context is suggesting that form over function appeals more to you, but then again I was going off with what you were saying about the Mackinaw. "Underwhelming and rudimentary in regards to the interior seams not being tucked inside". That to me seemed like a form over the incredibly functional Filson Mackinaw.

I'm not really sure what your shooting for here, coming into the most prolific Filson discussion and taking shots at one of the oldest products, and using words like "underwhelming", I imagine Reddit might be a better forum for that, but it's a free country and your welcome to do it. I was pretty respectful in my lighthearted response to you so I'm not sure how I offended you, not my intention.

 

[OtterMeanGreen]

I totally get the lovefest for Filson. they make nice stuff and the quality is generally pretty damn good. But at the same time I don't think TimothyF's comments are unfair. The key point is that Filson is not the most refined product and thats fine.Too much group think isnt a good thing either

Wow an old Filson member is visiting us, long time man. I don't think anyone here is arguing that it's the most refined product on the market, it's a good that lasts a very long time with hard use and also that offers versatility. Key example, the rugged twill luggage. It gets used out in the field and in the office. Can't really say that about a lot of other companies. Same goes for many of the garments, including the Mackinaw

 

[audog]

I totally get the lovefest for Filson. they make nice stuff and the quality is generally pretty damn good. But at the same time I don't think TimothyF's comments are unfair. The key point is that Filson is not the most refined product and thats fine.Too much group think isnt a good thing either

Filson makes a good product, so do other companies. I like Filson for their bags and fishing stuff. I prefer Carhartt for winter outerwear. Is it better? I don't know, but I can buy it locally and that is important to me.