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Equus Leather - English Handstitched Bridle Leather Belts - Official Affiliate and Review Thread

Equus Leather

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Hey Charlie, do you have a rough idea on the cost for the Russian leather watch straps?


Given what we had to pay for the leather I'm estimating £300 for a fully hand stitched bespoke strap, but it depends on how much wastage theres going to be - I assume quite a bit from what Ive seen. I'll update the forum with photos when the leather arrives and confirm a price. I think we're only going to get a few straps out of it and I'm not sure we'll ever be able to get it again so its pretty precious stuff.

Charlie
 

MacktasticGDogg

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Hey Charlie, do you have a rough idea on the cost for the Russian leather watch straps?


Given what we had to pay for the leather I'm estimating £300 for a fully hand stitched bespoke strap, but it depends on how much wastage theres going to be - I assume quite a bit from what Ive seen. I'll update the forum with photos when the leather arrives and confirm a price. I think we're only going to get a few straps out of it and I'm not sure we'll ever be able to get it again so its pretty precious stuff.

Charlie


Charlie, as you might put it, that's eye-wateringly expensive! LOL! However, I find myself still kind of intrigued. A deployant strap with this leather for my PAM sounds pretty good. I look forward to seeing some pictures of this leather.
 
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Equus Leather

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Charlie, as you might put it, that's eye-wateringly expensive! LOL! However, I find myself still kind of intrigued. A deployant strap with this leather for my PAM sounds pretty good. I look forward to seeing some pictures of this leather.


It is! To be fair though its no more than a lot of exotic leather watch straps and is a far rarer and more interesting strap then yet another nice Alligator or Ostrich - very nice things but not many of them were lost at sea in the 18th century :)

On a similar vein of rarity, I have a very very small batch of buckles coming from Japan at some point shortly that are each hand forged by a blacksmith from traditional cast iron nails. I think they will go very nicely with the Russet for this who want a one off. They've just shown me some development photos of a damascus buckle being developed by a blade maker as well that is rather good. Quite unusual and expensive pieces but nice to find something original made by an artisan.

Charlie
 

dopey

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I will be curious to hear what you think of the Russia tannage once you work with it. My recollection is that the hides were intended for bookbinding, not or shoes or the other use they have been put to since being recovered. A watch strap certainly has to be worked into shape less than a pair of shoes, so it probably is a good use for the material, but I wonder if you will find its lack of flexibility an issue. Are you going to line it? In any event, it is pretty neat stuff and I wish people would spend more time trying to revive the tanning techniques than focussing on exotic recoveries. Of course, no one can reproduce the effect of being sealed in mud and saltwater for so many years, so if that is a benefit, it is irreproducible.
 

Equus Leather

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I will be curious to hear what you think of the Russia tannage once you work with it. My recollection is that the hides were intended for bookbinding, not or shoes or the other use they have been put to since being recovered. A watch strap certainly has to be worked into shape less than a pair of shoes, so it probably is a good use for the material, but I wonder if you will find its lack of flexibility an issue. Are you going to line it? In any event, it is pretty neat stuff and I wish people would spend more time trying to revive the tanning techniques than focussing on exotic recoveries. Of course, no one can reproduce the effect of being sealed in mud and saltwater for so many years, so if that is a benefit, it is irreproducible.


It landed this morning, I'll post some photos later on.

Personally I'd agree re its use as shoe leather, assuming that the cross hatch grain wasn't intended to be lasted out that certainly is what happens. You can see that on the toe caps even with shoes that use the modern Horween leather thats designed to replicate the look.

The leather we have is something like 1.5mm and flexible. There are areas that are stiffer and somewhat damaged, presumably those that have suffered underwater but much of it is extremely nice. I wouldn't use the leather to make a belt as you wouldn't get a long enough strap without having to use dubious areas. As is we can cherry pick the particularly nice areas for watch straps which I think is an ideal use for it. The straps will be made with a full lining the same as our existing straps, in this case probably with a vegetable tanned calf.

Id agree about trying to preserve these techniques. I believe Bakers whose leather we use a lot of is a shining example of this - they make leather the old fashioned way. Its idiosyncratic to work with, but beautiful and proper leather of the old school. Likewise this is why its so important to keep alive the skills of hand working leather, its all to easy to mechanise and for them to be lost completely.

Charlie
 

Equus Leather

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Quick photo as promised above. I think this is reasonably good likeness that shows the depth and variation of colour, though obviously different areas of the leather are slightly different. The famous grain pattern is exactly as you'd expect and much more defined than in the Horween copy. The smell is really interesting. If there are any pipe smokers amongst us the leather has a good hint of smokey latakia, also pitch pine and birch - really intriguing smell. Im somewhat of a leather smell enthusiast and I love this. I'll try to get a strap made in the next few days and get some good photos, but I think we'll only get a max of 6 straps out of this of which two are already allocated, so first come first served for the rest.

1000


Charlie
 

dopey

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I love Latakia! TBH, I am very interested in the smell. I have heard comments about it before, and while I have seen shoes made of this before, they were always on someone's feet.

Re your prior comment about tannage, I have your baker'a russet and sedgewick australian nut belts. While I agree that the bakers is kind of neat, I think Sedgwick is better suited to the job - the tannage seems perfect for a belt and is really impressive. Do they make an undyed version, like the bakers russet? Btw, Sedgwick also has an interesting smell.
 

Equus Leather

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I love Latakia! TBH, I am very interested in the smell. I have heard comments about it before, and while I have seen shoes made of this before, they were always on someone's feet.

Re your prior comment about tannage, I have your baker'a russet and sedgewick australian nut belts. While I agree that the bakers is kind of neat, I think Sedgwick is better suited to the job - the tannage seems perfect for a belt and is really impressive. Do they make an undyed version, like the bakers russet? Btw, Sedgwick also has an interesting smell.


Sadly Sedgwick don't make an undyed bridle butt. It's a shame, I'd love some if they did. I confess I'm a big Bakers fan, I really like the character it has but Sedgwick make an amazing leather, they are really the preeminent bridle leather makers in the world and they deserve their reputation. We get through a lot of their leather and it's very very rare there's any kind of problem with it.

My father smokes Latakia tobacco so whilst it was a bit to strong a flavour for me when I smoked I've always loved the smell. I have various little bits that aren't good enough to make smthing with, I'll put a little bit in the post for you if you like? I think you'll like it. Think Latakia plus coal tar or pitch pine

Charlie
 

MacktasticGDogg

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Quick photo as promised above. I think this is reasonably good likeness that shows the depth and variation of colour, though obviously different areas of the leather are slightly different. The famous grain pattern is exactly as you'd expect and much more defined than in the Horween copy. The smell is really interesting. If there are any pipe smokers amongst us the leather has a good hint of smokey latakia, also pitch pine and birch - really intriguing smell. Im somewhat of a leather smell enthusiast and I love this. I'll try to get a strap made in the next few days and get some good photos, but I think we'll only get a max of 6 straps out of this of which two are already allocated, so first come first served for the rest.

1000


Charlie


:drool:

I was kind of hoping that the Russian leather wouldn't appeal to me, but this looks really cool. Now to determine if it appeals to me enough to spring for it....
 

Equus Leather

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Ok guys, just trying to organise a list of interested parties for the Russian Reindeer. What I think we're going to do i this

The straps are first come first served
We'll have a waiting list + reserves if enough interest
No money will change hands until just before your strap is started so we can be 100% sure we have the leather - something might go wrong making the previous strap so we may run out unexpectedly! If you decide you don't want your strap pre paying for it no harm and no foul, we'll just reallocate the leather to someone else. Given everything suggests we can't get more of this leather if theres some kind of problem (a slip whilst cutting for e.g.) we may have to cancel, hence no money changes hands till its your turn and we know we can make your strap.
Strap design is 100% up to you, within the bounds of us being able to make whatever you want well. It could be flat or raised, backed with bridle leather, calf, etc, contrast stitching or not, tapered or straight, you get the idea. Im very happy to work through all the options with you so you get something you'll love and justifies the leather its made from.
We will stick to the price above, £300 (+ VAT for us poor Europeans) to include any of our buckles. We'll include a RHD deployant for £25 - they are much kinder to the leather than a buckle or any other deployant Ive seen so well worth thinking about.
Very happy to send thread and leather samples as ever. There isn't enough good bits of the Reindeer to use as samples so you won't get a brilliant bit but good enough to get an idea of the finished product.
Each strap will come with a certificate of ownership, maker and the leather


We have 3 (of I estimate 6) straps already allocated so not many slots remaining. Drop me a PM if you'd like one.

Charlie
 
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Equus Leather

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A very sneaky preview before I send out a mail shot - for today only (28th Feb) we've got a sale on our most versatile and popular belt, The West End. 15% off, meaning prices start at £42.50 ex VAT.
 

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