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Epaulet

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^^ Hey guys, thanks for posting this, I'll check it out with our guys. We do generally have to press that out - along with the lapels and the overall french seams - after production. Anytime you have a garment with a significant lapel or a roll, then ironing can be part of the overall "presentation." But I'll see if maybe we can tweak the stitching for future runs.
 

Epaulet

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Just received this absolutely beautiful cashmere Jaeger jacket.

Based on our Nuovo sportcoat, this piece is features bellows hip pockets, a detachable throat latch, and suede accents at the elbow, pocket edges, cuffs, and undercollar. We can make it in any heavyweight fabric.

It's styled with a washed and distressed version of our DCBD shirt in indigo "Monster Twill." This gives off kind of a rad Country Western vibe, right? Jackson Maine from "A Star Is Born."

Jaeger Camel cashmere1.jpg
Jaeger Camel Cashmere2.jpg
Jaeger Camel Cashmere3.jpg
 

Epaulet

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@Epaulet do you by chance have any deets on the Italian “stretch” Wools in your latest promo offering?

Yup! We have two of them. They're both excellent.

The idea is to offer a "natural stretch." It's tropical-weight wool which is loomed with a weave that can naturally move in four directions. It offers about the same amount of stretch as a wool/lycra blend. Pure wool tends to wear better and cooler than wool & synthetic stretch. It drapes better.

The base yarns here are really fantastic too. If you're in the market for a grey suit or a grey dress pant, you're going to be absolutely delighted with these two fabrics. They're both closeouts which would have cost almost 40% more than our opening price Huddersfield goods, so it's a great deal.

X01301000 Tollegno 3D Wool Oxford Grey.jpg
X21619013 Freddo & Sotile Oxford Grey Natural Stretch copy.jpg
 

ppk

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Hi Eva,

I ordered the Wilhelm Chinos back in January and you had indicated that they would ship before March. Can you give an update on the ETA? Thanks.
 

Epaulet

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Hi Eva,

I ordered the Wilhelm Chinos back in January and you had indicated that they would ship before March. Can you give an update on the ETA? Thanks.
Thanks! Won't be much longer. We were looking at late Feb, early March... I think we'll be able to ship middle of the month for unhemmed units, and a week after that for finished hems. I'll keep everyone updated here.

Next pieces out the factory are the Natural Stitchwork Sashiko Rivets and the Mil-Spec Rivets. We'll be running the Wilhelms right after that.
 
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Epaulet

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Oh and I do want to thank @ppk and all of the other Wilhelm customers!

I love making these pants. Anyone who's been following the brand has probably seen that I've been doing "big leg" dress pants and chinos since day one. I believe that the current iteration of the Wilhelm is not only the best one that I've done, but is truly the best one on the market.

You can't fit everyone with a single shape, but I've seen this work magic in fitting a wide range of guys who have an impossible time with most off the rack pants.

The fact that I can do it in these rad selvedge fabrics is even better. My previous attempts with selvedge 5-pocket jeans were..... not the most successful thing.... so it's awesome to make this special shape in such unique fabrics. Can't wait to put these into work!
 

ppk

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Oh and I do want to thank @ppk and all of the other Wilhelm customers!

I love making these pants. Anyone who's been following the brand has probably seen that I've been doing "big leg" dress pants and chinos since day one. I believe that the current iteration of the Wilhelm is not only the best one that I've done, but is truly the best one on the market.

You can't fit everyone with a single shape, but I've seen this work magic in fitting a wide range of guys who have an impossible time with most off the rack pants.

The fact that I can do it in these rad selvedge fabrics is even better. My previous attempts with selvedge 5-pocket jeans were..... not the most successful thing.... so it's awesome to make this special shape in such unique fabrics. Can't wait to put these into work!
Thank you! I'm looking forward to receiving them.
 

alkydrinker

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Just received a custom indigo sashiko Sinclair from the February 1 group order and it fits great!
I'm 6'2" and don't like the short jacket look... so this jacket is size 42 but for customizations I added 1.5" in the body and 1" in the sleeves. The important part—body length—came out great. I intentionally overshot the sleeves a little knowing is an easy alteration (they're folded up one turn in the pics).
Based on measurements, I'm between 42 & 44, but thinking about the nature of sashiko I went with the smaller size, which was definitely the right move.
I've never seen a Sinclair done in a more traditional, longer length on a taller person, so I'm really happy about how this worked out.
I think it was said that the construction for these is being done by a new sewing team... so I must say that they executed really well. The interior is finished really nice with taped edges and nothing feels "off" in the fit
 

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Epaulet

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Just received a custom indigo sashiko Sinclair from the February 1 group order and it fits great!
I'm 6'2" and don't like the short jacket look... so this jacket is size 42 but for customizations I added 1.5" in the body and 1" in the sleeves. The important part—body length—came out great. I intentionally overshot the sleeves a little knowing is an easy alteration (they're folded up one turn in the pics).
Based on measurements, I'm between 42 & 44, but thinking about the nature of sashiko I went with the smaller size, which was definitely the right move.
I've never seen a Sinclair done in a more traditional, longer length on a taller person, so I'm really happy about how this worked out.
I think it was said that the construction for these is being done by a new sewing team... so I must say that they executed really well. The interior is finished really nice with taped edges and nothing feels "off" in the fit
Thank you so much for your order and for the feedback. This is wonderful to hear!

I'm so glad that the jacket fits well and that you're so pleased with it. 😁

Our first round went pretty well. We do have a new cutting team and a new individual sewing facility for it. I want to get a 4 week turnaround for these. It took 6 weeks the first time, as our cutter had to get familiar with the shapes, and our sewing office was closed for a full week due to the rainstorms. Two client jackets were mixed up as well and had to be remade. But overall, we nailed 16 out of 18 pieces ordered and kept close to the time frame.

I'm doing some prep for the next round. I bought these rigid plastic boxes, so each set of jacket pieces will travel in its own reusable box to eliminate mix-ups. We'll be able to offer a few different colors for monograms. And the cutting room now has hard paper for the patterns (we used printouts before), which will make the cutting process much faster. I'm going to promise four weeks for the next round, but I think shipping in 3 could be realistic. That's the dream!
 

Epaulet

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Our most popular makeup for this custom round was the Japanese Indigo cotton Tweed. Got some pics of a custom Sinclair with a monogram. It came out awesome! I'm going to offer this fabric for the next round as well.. it's just too good.

Sinclair Indigo Tweed1.jpg

Sinclair Indigo Tweed4.jpg
 

Epaulet

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GREY FOX BROS SUIT OFFER

Hey guys! In about a month, we're going to roll out our full collection of Fox Brothers flannels and tweeds. Clients have been asking for their goods for the past few years, and I'm thrilled to finally bring them on board.

It is expensive though. Fox makes some of the best and most unique fabric on Earth, and it's pricey. A 2-piece suit will be north of $2500, although we'll definitely have a discount for the launch promotion.

Now... I do have a very quick and limited deal. I have 10 yards of their "Hertitage Flannel" in solid Slate Grey. In their words...

Designs resonate from the late 1930's. "Proper cloth" at 17/18 ounces (in old money). Woven in the West of England.

It's about as traditional and as heavyweight as a grey flannel suit can be. I can make two suits, and the price is $1750 with premium buttons and liners included. Other upgrades will bring an extra charge like surgeons cuffs, finished hems, full canvas, and interior suspender buttons. But we can work that out.

Before I list this online, I figured I'd post here and offer it to you guys. It's really incredible fabric, and this is a suit that you can enjoy for - literally - decades. If you want to commission one, just drop me an email at [email protected]

I did one suit already for an existing client, and it's just magnificent in person. Here's pics of the coat..

Nuovo Fox Bros Grey.jpg
Nuovo Fox Bros Grey2.jpg
 

Epaulet

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Hey Eva - will the full catalogue of Fox Bro flannels and tweeds be available to choose from? Or will it just be a select bunch?
Hey there! We're going to have a pretty huge selection.. about 50 fabrics in total. I'm sticking with the heavier weight stuff (Heritage Flannels, Heritage Tweed) as I think that's where they're really exceptional.

For lighter weight suiting goods and hopsacks, we'll lean on Hardy Minnis for that.
 

Epaulet

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Was great seeing @jah786 from American Trench when he visited LA last week!

He's a vegetarian, but he graciously agreed to go to a steakhouse with me and order the grilled salmon. Here in the South Bay of Los Angeles, the "San Franciscan" steakhouse is a traditional red booth restaurant from the 60s. The ambiance and the food feels like it's from another generation, and they do a karaoke night which kind of feels like a social party in a geriatric ward. In a good way.

Anyway.. I'll be back in Philly next month and doing a trunk show at his store in Ardmore, PA on Thursday, April 18th. More info to come on that!

IMG_8597.jpg
 

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