• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

L.I.T.

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2010
Messages
690
Reaction score
732
Thanks for posting guys. I source a lot of fabrics each season and generally our shrinkage rates are pretty minimal. There are some outliers... like that cotton/linen which Patrick R mentioned, but for the most part things are consistent.

LIT... you’ve got fairly long arms for our pattern, so you’re noticing it more because the unwashed length is probably just barely long enough. Cotton is still a natural fiber though and even though mills say that shrinkage is between 3 and 5%, you never really know.

I’ll look to present more custom shirting fabrics than ever before this year and our upcoming suiting project on Saturday will have a full MTO option, so anyone who finds our stock sizing difficult will have a lot of options for entirely custom work.

Been thinking about sizing up to a XL in shirting too in the stock stuff incase of that shrinkage in the furture I think to be safe. Individulized mto shirts have been pretty good and gitman seems to cut a little bit bigger too. Looking forward to what fabrics you'll have in Spring.
 

NorthCoast

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2015
Messages
708
Reaction score
146
Always up for buying shirts that I can add length to the sleeves. Few stock patterns fit my long arms, and most of those seem to be from northern European and Germanic countries.
 

Epaulet

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
13,074
Reaction score
11,322
Hope you guys are well... sorry that I've been absent for most of the week with all of the Pitti activities! I'm on a train to Rome and finally catching up on things. I want to quickly talk about our project going live tomorrow. I'm working on the formal name, but it's going to be along the lines of "The Last American Donegal Tweed." I have to figure it out. But the idea is this:

1) The original Woolrich Woolen Mills.. dating back over 170 years, and sustaining the small working-class town around it sadly closed last year. You can read about that here.

2) I had been in contact with their liquidation team and I reserved about 300 yards of the very last Donegal tweed that they produced. It's a gorgeous Sandy brown tone with orange and cream flecks. It was woven on site and represents some of the final craftmanship of this legendary mill.

3) We're going to continue their American-made legacy by offering the fabrics for immediate makeup in Los Angeles (as the Rivet, Wilhelm, Sinclair, and Doyle) and Brooklyn (any and all of our models with Hertling). I may not formally offer it, but if anyone wants Southwick garments we can absolutely do that as well.

4) I got this wool at a large discount so I'm going to pass that along. Production will be final sale for all of this so that we can cut it all to order and offer the best possible pricing. For LA production, I'm looking at

Doyle: 195
Sinclair: 225
Rivet & Wilhelm: $175 with a $15 option for finished plain hems
Hertling Pants: $235 (Walt, Rudy, Driggs) to $250 for Taylor & Gable
Southwick: I'd have to figure out but would be on the inexpensive side. Probably right around the REDA Flexo suiting price.

Additionally, we can accommodate custom Sinclairs and Doyles for an additional charge of about $75. With that, you can change the sleeve and body length as you want.

That's about it! I can make around 130-ish garments from this tweed, and this is the first time that you can mix and match pieces from all of our suppliers. You can do a Sinclair with a Gable trouser. And get the Sinclair with an extra 2" of length if you you need it. You can get a Doyle and a Rudy pant with side tabs. All of it ties together, and this incredible American fabric will never, ever be produced again. I'm really... really freaking excited about this!

This is a good time to do production so plan will be to launch the items tomorrow and close orders in a week or so. I want to ship between end-Feb and early March so that you get a good amount of in-season wear time with them. Here's a video that shows the fabric in detail...

 
Last edited:

Todd V

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
915
Reaction score
131
I’m not sure if I’m a player at the moment. (Responsibilities ?). But this is yet another awesome project. I could see doing a Southwick suit and wearing it freakin’ everywhere all the time.
 

Patrick R

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 29, 2011
Messages
4,656
Reaction score
11,886
Speaking of Southwick suits, I'm in one today.

649403F3-385E-4F04-9467-B32DE9272980.jpeg
 

K. Nights

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 7, 2010
Messages
1,845
Reaction score
1,749
@Epaulet any chance we could see a side by side of the Woolrich donegal with the Di Pray Mocha donegal? Just ordered the latter and I think they might be too similar for me to go in on both
 

Epaulet

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
13,074
Reaction score
11,322
@Epaulet any chance we could see a side by side of the Woolrich donegal with the Di Pray Mocha donegal? Just ordered the latter and I think they might be too similar for me to go in on both

oh absolutely, I’ll be happy to do that when I’m back on Monday. Totally different vibe.. the Woolrich cloth is a much paler tone, it’s thicker and tougher. DiPray will have more tailoring drape and a smoother hand. And it’s the difference between a heritage American outdoormans cloth and a fine Italian tailoring cloth. I could see both having a distinct place even if you did two identically styled suits
 

Todd V

Senior Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2010
Messages
915
Reaction score
131
oh absolutely, I’ll be happy to do that when I’m back on Monday. Totally different vibe.. the Woolrich cloth is a much paler tone, it’s thicker and tougher. DiPray will have more tailoring drape and a smoother hand. And it’s the difference between a heritage American outdoormans cloth and a fine Italian tailoring cloth. I could see both having a distinct place even if you did two identically styled suits

I was wondering the same about Ironwood Donegal from the old days.

American Outdoorsman’s Suit. Patch flap pockets and cuffs on the pants. Boots of course. Who’s in?

@Epaulet a little video where we can get a sense of the drape would be awesome.
 

Epaulet

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
13,074
Reaction score
11,322
Thanks for the orders guys! First 30 units are claimed! LMK what other content you’d like and I’ll be happy to shoot it. We’ll definitely do a round showing those sample pieces with other coordinating items so you can see how well these match up to stuff that you own already
 

stitchedsoles

Active Member
Joined
Apr 6, 2016
Messages
37
Reaction score
76
Thanks for the orders guys! First 30 units are claimed! LMK what other content you’d like and I’ll be happy to shoot it. We’ll definitely do a round showing those sample pieces with other coordinating items so you can see how well these match up to stuff that you own already

Have you done the Wilhelm cut with slash pockets at all?

Edit: cancel that, just saw on the page that they are Chino pockets.
 
Last edited:

Epaulet

Affiliate Vendor
Affiliate Vendor
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Messages
13,074
Reaction score
11,322
Have you done the Wilhelm cut with slash pockets at all?

Edit: cancel that, just saw on the page that they are Chino pockets.

yes sorry... I didn’t have the time to get a Wilhelm sample. I want people to have some time to wear this stuff, so I had to go live today so we can deliver end Feb.

I’ll build the cloth into both our MTO Doyle/Sinclair item and our three Southwick items (pants, suit, sportcoat) and list that on Monday. I definitely want to turn all of this stuff into garments! Retail will be higher on that... prob $300 for SW pants, $700 for a jacket, about $875 for a suit. Just for reference. Our LA made shapes will definitely be the least expensive way to get something.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,958
Messages
10,593,121
Members
224,356
Latest member
monicfareynold
Top