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Epaulet

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Do we know this is for sure the case?
No, and admittedly I’ve been premature in the past on places closing. I’m just assuming this based on that call for funding last season and the 50% off everything sale that they’re having. Most retailers are out of sale mode at this point
 

sjmin209

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I would also point out that their measurements were consistently--and sometimes wildly--inaccurate. I regularly turn to stores that post garment measurements to get a clear sense of likely fit. I've never been frustrated by any site more than Unionmade in this regard. Still, not happy to see them go.
 
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Blastwice

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Unionmade always seemed too expensive and out there for me.

Mike, when you make a Banana yellow jacket, you get one roll of fabric and ask us how many are wanted.

If Unionmade was going to make a banana yellow jacket, they would buy a whole island in Japan that specializes in Bananas and come out with a whole product line made from the skins starting at $500 for a pair of socks.

Also found it hard to size stuff there. Every individual piece had it's own sizing and it was all crazy out there. How am I supposed to know if I fit in moon drummer's full body suit when they only give like a waist measurement?
 

Epaulet

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Unionmade always seemed too expensive and out there for me.

Mike, when you make a Banana yellow jacket, you get one roll of fabric and ask us how many are wanted.

If Unionmade was going to make a banana yellow jacket, they would buy a whole island in Japan that specializes in Bananas and come out with a whole product line made from the skins starting at $500 for a pair of socks.

Also found it hard to size stuff there. Every individual piece had it's own sizing and it was all crazy out there. How am I supposed to know if I fit in moon drummer's full body suit when they only give like a waist measurement?
LOL I definitely want to visit this Japanese Banana island someday!
 

Peter1

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I admit that I would use the Unionmade site as a guide to what not to pay, then find said item for less elsewhere. I agree that they had some incredible Alden makeups.

As for post-recession menswear, the problem (unhappily for retailers) is that so much of the Americana and Japanese repro stuff is so well made that it never wears out. I have a couple of Dickeys 1923 shirts that I bought around a decade ago that even though I don't really like that hardcore workwear style anymore, I just can't bear to throw them out. Same with a pair of Quoddys and Russells...I think the guilt of potentially getting rid of 25 percent of my (costly) wardrobe at pennies on the dollar is preventing me from buying new stuff.

Whereas if you buy "designer" gear like SLP you can resell w/in a season or two.
 

bamgrinus

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I admit that I would use the Unionmade site as a guide to what not to pay, then find said item for less elsewhere. I agree that they had some incredible Alden makeups.

As for post-recession menswear, the problem (unhappily for retailers) is that so much of the Americana and Japanese repro stuff is so well made that it never wears out. I have a couple of Dickeys 1923 shirts that I bought around a decade ago that even though I don't really like that hardcore workwear style anymore, I just can't bear to throw them out. Same with a pair of Quoddys and Russells...I think the guilt of potentially getting rid of 25 percent of my (costly) wardrobe at pennies on the dollar is preventing me from buying new stuff.

Whereas if you buy "designer" gear like SLP you can resell w/in a season or two.
I think a bigger problem with the Americana/workwear stuff is that a lot of the people who got into it, focusing on "quality" "timeless" stuff, really didn't pick up a broader interest in fashion. Workwear was really easy to wear for the type of guy who just got a good paying tech job and wants to learn to dress a little nicer, and probably starts reading reddit MFA to learn more. But while they might shell out for a good pair of raw jeans or quality boots, that doesn't mean they're going to get into a brand like Kapital which is not only a lot more expensive, but weird enough to put off that crowd.
 

M635Guy

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My understanding was the UnionMade site and the b+m store were run fairly separately. I hope they'll be able to keep the SF store running - it was pretty busy when I was there last Fall. The store made way more sense than the website to me - it had a vibe and direction the website just didn't.

I liked them, and their Alden stuff was pretty cool. Have a few things from them that get a lot of wear.

This sale is not quite the same as the Hertling closing the doors sale. That one was questionable....
I don't think it was questionable so much as something happened at the last minute that gave the business an opportunity to survive. The quality and prices for what we got in that sale were great.
 

Epaulet

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I admit that I would use the Unionmade site as a guide to what not to pay, then find said item for less elsewhere. I agree that they had some incredible Alden makeups.

As for post-recession menswear, the problem (unhappily for retailers) is that so much of the Americana and Japanese repro stuff is so well made that it never wears out. I have a couple of Dickeys 1923 shirts that I bought around a decade ago that even though I don't really like that hardcore workwear style anymore, I just can't bear to throw them out. Same with a pair of Quoddys and Russells...I think the guilt of potentially getting rid of 25 percent of my (costly) wardrobe at pennies on the dollar is preventing me from buying new stuff.

Whereas if you buy "designer" gear like SLP you can resell w/in a season or two.
@Peter1 good point, I never really considered the resell angle. Premium brands are so out of the realm typically ($1800 for a Gucci sweater or whatever) that I don't even think about it, but I guess there could be a trade off with some of the pricer things that Unionmade was offering.

I think a bigger problem with the Americana/workwear stuff is that a lot of the people who got into it, focusing on "quality" "timeless" stuff, really didn't pick up a broader interest in fashion. Workwear was really easy to wear for the type of guy who just got a good paying tech job and wants to learn to dress a little nicer, and probably starts reading reddit MFA to learn more. But while they might shell out for a good pair of raw jeans or quality boots, that doesn't mean they're going to get into a brand like Kapital which is not only a lot more expensive, but weird enough to put off that crowd.
@bamgrinus this is a great point, and I totally agree. The Americana menswear look - promoted in the early days by Steven Alan & J.Crew in Good Company - had very broad appeal and was an easy look for many guys to adopt. Aldens and Barbour coats were never cheap, but they made a ton of practical sense compared to Bapesta sneakers or Thom Browne or other trendier things.

Starting in 2009, Unionmade would have begun with this crowd, and we did in many ways too. But it's a common mistake to primarily lead your customers rather than listen to them. And I've done this lots of times. While they were pushing these edgier Japanese designs, it's very possible that they were losing customers to cheaper direct to consumer retailers and more mainstream trends. Would things have played out differently if there was an in-house MiUSA Unionmade line with like $135 jeans and other basics?

My understanding was the UnionMade site and the b+m store were run fairly separately. I hope they'll be able to keep the SF store running - it was pretty busy when I was there last Fall. The store made way more sense than the website to me - it had a vibe and direction the website just didn't.

I liked them, and their Alden stuff was pretty cool. Have a few things from them that get a lot of wear.

I don't think it was questionable so much as something happened at the last minute that gave the business an opportunity to survive. The quality and prices for what we got in that sale were great.
@M635Guy I'm with you, that original SF store was always beautiful and a great experience. Todd really knew how to design a space. Far better than I can, that's for sure

Are there more colors coming out in the near future? Was hoping the Sienna would return but might go ahead and get the Spruce if not.
@b-ill oh no.. we don't have any Sienna on the horizon at all. Definitely consider the Spruce, it's a beautiful tone and goes with really everything except olive pants. Looks perfect with grey, navy, khaki, denim, etc. I think that these green tone sashiko Doyles are some of the best pieces we've ever made.
 

espen

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Just throwin' it out there amongst this Unionmade chatter...

Mike - any luck in sourcing some sweet casentino from any jobbers?
 

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