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Enzo Bonafe Handmade Shoes.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Chris "Italia", Nov 4, 2007.

  1. Ansel

    Ansel Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the good news. Much appreciated.
     
  2. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    In reference to Skoaktiebolaget's pre-order for reverse split toe derbys from Bonafe, what is a reverse split toe?
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2016
  3. TtownMD

    TtownMD Senior member

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    This has been answered on skoak thread with detail & pic. Just go to thread & go back few pages & it will give you detailed answer with pictures. This was done few days ago.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Ah, okay. Thanks. Such is the awesome power of search that it was impossible to discern that from a couple of pages of search results!
     
  5. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Great shoes, great design. Congrats Brax
     
  6. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    Hey guys,

    I'm about to do an MTO through SoleGarb but wanted to put the opportunity for a GMTO here. I'm going for a heel-seamed wholecut loafer with a medallion. I was inspired by the J.FitzPatrick wholecut loafer, however I need a wider fitting last. This was a model meant for the Japan market that EB has allowed SoleGarb to use for this MTO. I want this model particularly because the length of the vamp is shorter. Another incentive, if we get 3 people, we get free shoe trees. Here's the model of the loafer below:

    [​IMG]


    Here's the JF loafers whose style I'm looking to mimic.

    [​IMG]


    I'm particular on a smooth leather (not country calf or suede), but I haven't picked out a color yet so I'm flexible there. That being said, SoleGarb also has some of that magical Kudu left, the same that GG uses, but "only enough for a few pairs." I would make an exception for some of that amazing leather. I'm not sure if there is an upcharge for it, but checking with SG now.

    I'm firm on Blake Rapid for comfort and price. As far as the last, I'm thinking of either the 946 last or something along those lines. Basically looking for last that has a generous forefoot but is normal/shorter in length.

    Please PM me if you guys are interested!
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    I think Blake Rapid is too much sole (insole/mid/outsole) for such a light and lovely loafer. Just saying,

    Here EG Bamford.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    EB Blake rapid is slim enough for me. Thanks for the lovely photo!
     
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  9. computingboy91

    computingboy91 Senior member

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    I am interested. Will pm shortly.

    If I am not wrong, isn't Blake rapid the welt that is really slim? Like the current photo for the brown captoe gmto on Skoak?
     
  10. lartiste

    lartiste Senior member

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    Boots very nice,spectator amazing .).
     
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  11. rbhan12

    rbhan12 Senior member

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    Yeah, blake rapid is pretty slim. The button boots at Leffot are blake rapid if you're interested to see.
     
  12. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    There will be no visible welt for Blake rapid constructed shoes. This enables the outsole to be cut very close to the uppers. It's both sleek and comfortable. Good idea for loafers I think.
    The captoe gmto you are referring to has a 270 deg handwelt.
     
  13. sleepyinsanfran

    sleepyinsanfran Senior member

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    this is true only for blake-stitched shoes minus the rapid stitch.

    bonafe does both blake and blake-rapid - the former has no visible welt, while the latter does (albeit a relatively trim one)
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2016
    1 person likes this.
  14. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Haha Yes. You're right. I always get mixed up between Blake stitched and Blake rapid. Apologies.
     
  15. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Very sharp specs. Kill my EG Malvens for instance.
     
  16. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Yes,so for that model best is to go GYW or HW single sole and trimmed welt IMÓ.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2016
  17. Stefan88

    Stefan88 Senior member

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    Bonafè does many constructions, but GYW is not one of them. May I ask what you mean by trimmed welt too?
     
  18. Zapasman

    Zapasman Senior member

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    Sure @Stefan88. . In order to have a "pretty slim" shoe, @rbhan12 can tell EB (or the retailer) to reduce the widht of the welt and the outsole just by cutting them closer to the upper (my words were not correct at all, so I apologize) after they stitch the outsole with the e-rapid machine. EB is going to cut them by hand, so it should not be a problem. I think this was discussed before in the Forum. I do not understand why BR construction should make slimmer shoes than HW?.

    Furthermore, I do not think it´s a good idea to use a double sole (BR) in such a light loafer, a beautiful shoe similar to a slip on shoe.

    PS.- Yes, you are right Bonafe does not make GYW shoes, but thanks for clarifications anyway
     
  19. Leaves

    Leaves Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    In regards of "hand welted" and "Goodyear welted" shoes, the reason there's a bit of confusion regarding terminology is actually because most Italian makers themselves refer to hand welted as "handmade Goodyear welted". It's a translation issue, and also many consumers (and buyers) don't understand the difference and believes GYW automatically means superior quality. I believe many Italian makers have adopted the GYW label for marketing purposes although most experts will recognise the hand welted construction to be a notch or two above Goodyear welted. Actually, on the old website Bonafè referred to their shoes as handmade Goodyear welted (or something very similar, I can't recall). So, confusion is bound to appear regarding the topic.
     
  20. ThunderMarch

    ThunderMarch Senior member

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    Thanks for this. I have encountered the term "handmade GYW" on a number of occasions as well, which has confused me to no end.
    So can we confirm that Enzo's construction is a bona fide handwelt?
    ie. carving out the holdfast from the insole itself, and no use of gemming (hand or otherwise).
     

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