ENZO BONAFÉ MTO and GMTO Central

[nishant]

I replied on the Reddit post already prior to seeing this one, re: the 2 gmtos. I have some interest in both options as well as the one that @nishant suggested.

I have a pair of jumpers on the 363mod last that feel a hair short and a hair narrow at the ball and perhaps at the front part of the waist. Would this width concern be exacerbated on the 74945 last? Also, can anyone who's played with feathering vs. sizing up talk to me about expectations for both approaches in terms of width?

I would think so. 363Mod is round while 74945 is soft chisel and hence likely a bit narrower in the front.

Feathering can help with the width but not a lot. I think @stephenaf2003 gets his pairs feathered.

 

[nishant]

So here is the thought ...

Jumpers
Dark Cognac Shell Uppers
Dark Cognac Shell Big Grain Shaft
363 Mod
5 + 4 ( polished brass )
360 degree Norvegese ( ? )
Either Ridgeway sole or DL w/ toecaps.

Interested: @nishant @jischwar

Potential : @stook1

What say @mugenlove ?

 

[vmss]

I would think so. 363Mod is round while 74945 is soft chisel and hence likely a bit narrower in the front.

Feathering can help with the width but not a lot. I think @stephenaf2003 gets his pairs feathered.

I had a pair feathered or added an extra width on the 74945 last. It did help with my lil toe, but it created extra volume at the instep as now I am dealing with excessive leather at the vamp area.

 

[stook1]

I would think so. 363Mod is round while 74945 is soft chisel and hence likely a bit narrower in the front.

Feathering can help with the width but not a lot. I think @stephenaf2003 gets his pairs feathered.

Thanks for your input. Yes, I know that @stephenaf2003 feathers his pairs. I should have been a little more clear in my previous comment. Generally, my issue isn't with the taper of the chisel. For example, Rain last is fine. Rather than toe box, it is really a concern with the ball and the midfoot or waist or whatever the right name for that area is. I was under the impression that this element of the 74945 and 363mod were about the same but that the 74945 is elongated to account for the chisel without compromising toe box room. As for my question, I was hoping to learn whether either sizing up or feathering would result in more width given the choice between those two possible solutions. Also whether my understanding about the width of the two lasts is actually correct since I only have 363mod.

 

[stook1]

I had a pair feathered or added an extra width on the 74945 last. It did help with my lil toe, but it created extra volume at the instep as now I am dealing with excessive leather at the vamp area.

By chance, did you try also going up a length with the normal width?

 

[vmss]

By chance, did you try also going up a length with the normal width?

I just added photos. No, otherwise would have make more sense going up a half size. It feels that handwelted shoes breaks in a bit more than GYW. If you add extra width make sure to tell them that they dont increase the instep. I think that is my issue here.

 

[vmss]

I also have 74945 half size bigger. Everything is about right only dealt with heel slip that is why I went a size down and increase the width only to find out instep issues and excessive leather bumps. I guess normal size would be the best. Just break in the shoes and in about 20wears little toe pressure may go away.

 

[stook1]

I also have 74945 half size bigger. Everything is about right only dealt with heel slip that is why I went a size down and increase the width only to find, but I have excessive room at the instep. I guess normal size would be the best. Just break in the shoes and in about 20wears little toe pressure would go away.

I see. That's kind of what I expected, ie. that the feathering might be similar to upsizing in terms of width. Need to scrutinize the fit of my pair a little more. I suspect that I can go up a length without slip, especially in a boot.

 

[nishant]

I see. That's kind of what I expected, ie. that the feathering might be similar to upsizing in terms of width. Need to scrutinize the fit of my pair a little more. I suspect that I can go up a length without slip, especially in a boot.

On a derby boot, going up 1/2 and using merino socks is what I have done a few times successfully. It makes no difference whatsoever in the comfort and a shell boot does not stretch much at all so you need not be scared about them breaking in and changing fit drastically. This does not apply to all folks however.

 

[jischwar]

So here is the thought ...

Jumpers
Dark Cognac Shell Uppers
Dark Cognac Shell Big Grain Shaft
363 Mod
5 + 4 ( polished brass )
360 degree Norvegese ( ? )
Either Ridgeway sole or DL w/ toecaps.

Interested: @nishant @jischwar

Potential : @stook1

What say @mugenlove ?

View attachment 1394551

Is the shell color a deal breaker here? Any other big grain shell colors?

 

[nishant]

Is the shell color a deal breaker here? Any other big grain shell colors?

No. As long as we are in agreement, Lorenzo said he can talk with Horween about getting a big grain print.

What are you thinking ?

 

[stephenaf2003]

I replied on the Reddit post already prior to seeing this one, re: the 2 gmtos. I have some interest in both options as well as the one that @nishant suggested.

I have a pair of jumpers on the 363mod last that feel a hair short and a hair narrow at the ball and perhaps at the front part of the waist. Would this width concern be exacerbated on the 74945 last? Also, can anyone who's played with feathering vs. sizing up talk to me about expectations for both approaches in terms of width?

For my foot, the difference at the ball is quite noticeable between the 363Mod, and the 74945 last. A feather on the 363 makes them perfect, the feather on the 74945 makes them almost perfect. Again YMMV, since for me the ball is the problem area.

 

[stook1]

No. As long as we are in agreement, Lorenzo said he can talk with Horween about getting a big grain print.

What are you thinking ?

I'm not averse to any of the various options under discussion although perhaps leaning towards the color 4 makeup. Having said that the large print shell is intriguing. Never seen it before. Another consideration could be the willow print in a darker color than the round that was done last year, which was.... Amaretto if I recall correctly? or Bourbon?

 

[stook1]

For my foot, the difference at the ball is quite noticeable between the 363Mod, and the 74945 last. A feather on the 363 makes them perfect, the feather on the 74945 makes them almost perfect. Again YMMV, since for me the ball is the problem area.

Thanks, I replied to your PM before I realized that you'd posted to the thread. Appreciate the input. So 74945 is indeed narrower at the ball. Hmm. I'll wear my 363mod tomorrow to get a better handle on the fit. I've only worn them twice thus far.

 

[kevenmee]

I'm not averse to any of the various options under discussion although perhaps leaning towards the color 4 makeup. Having said that the large print shell is intriguing. Never seen it before. Another consideration could be the willow print in a darker color than the round that was done last year, which was.... Amaretto if I recall correctly? or Bourbon?

We can do the shaft in large print color 4 but I think @nishant isn't too keen considering he just got the make-up in willow color 4.

TBF, have color 4 vibergs and just picked up the color 2 vibergs so open to changing shell color. Would love the old-school Ravello with the red undertones but I don't think that's available anymore.