Eidos Napoli

[Steel28]

Deleted, keeping this master piece

 

[notdesigned]



Eidos as styled by Gentry almost looks like a more luxe Nepenthes brand, which I love. 

This is an excellent observation with which I wholeheartedly agree.

 

[NickPollica]

A bit deeper on our first Gentry drop...

The Horizontal Aran mockneck - The most beautiful thing about this is the continuous knit pattern that runs from the cuff, up the sleeve, across the chest and down the other arm without breaking. Not easy to achieve.

The Horizontal herringbone garment dyed cashmere robe - I know some of you have asked where this was available. The evolution of the Ajrak cardigan but knit longer and out of Loro Piana Coarsehair cashmere. It is seriously the softest yarn quality I've ever felt. I believe that there are only 5 of these (3 here and 2 at AK RIKKS).

The Matera field jacket - I've written about this extensively at this point but this is my favorite field jacket we've ever done. Cut from a midnight Japanese cotton sateen that replicates the original fabric of the M-65, we put our own spin on the silhouette by drawing on many of my favorite vintage styles. One highlight to note is the stowable hood that is in self fabric, as opposed to that lightweight liner fabric that always looked like an after thought to me.

The Maremmana Shearling - A technical update to our perennial classic. My brother (who initially asked me to create the style the first season) wanted me to make him one he could actually hunt in. He said the outer shell needed to be water repellent with a compact weave so it wouldn't catch on brambles, etc. but also extremely warm. My answer was to do the shell in a peached Japanes weather cloth (the same fabric as the Chiaia) and lined in real shearling.

The Ollie cable crewneck - The idea here was to make the classic cable knit crew feel a bit more rugged. There is a basketweave stitch in between the triple cables and the yarn is one charcoal and one chocolate woolen yarn spun together for subtle depth of texture. This one is knit and cut fairly loose for maximum coziness.

The Shay unlined tweed car coat - This tricolor (light gray, charcoal/chocolate) tweed quality from Moessmer looks rough but is light and forgiving like a knit. Completely unlined so wears like a sweater.

The Thompson belted shawl cardigan - Its encore showing and done in a slightly different navy/brownish gray mouline yarn.

 

[IJReilly]

I don't think I really understood where you wanted to go with Eidos until I saw the Gentry drop. Easily the most appealing interpretation of the brand thus far (although I really like some of the tailoring as well). Feels a lot more urban than how I usually percieve Eidos.

 

[NickPollica]



I don't think I really understood where you wanted to go with Eidos until I saw the Gentry drop. Easily the most appealing interpretation of the brand thus far (although I really like some of the tailoring as well). Feels a lot more urban than how I usually percieve Eidos.

I think that the strength of the collection is that by focusing on simple, interesting design it can be taken both ways. There isn't a single piece here that I would consider streetwear. It's all in how you put it together.

 

[pleatedjeans]

Love the "loose" (unfinished? non-cinched? rolled? not sure what the word is here) bottom hem on the aran mock turtleneck, great detail that totally changes how it can be worn

 

[Chaconne]

Are the buttons on the Gentry Courtier black or a dark brown?

@NickPollica

Edit: Or Blue?

 

[NickPollica]

...

Are the buttons on the Gentry Courtier black or a dark brown?

@NickPollica

Edit: Or Blue?[/quote

I developed a stonewashed black corozo button this season for the dark grounded shirts. It has a matte finish with undertones of the natural nut color - an amazing depth of color. I normally hate the idea of black buttons, particularly because they are usually very shiny and severe, but this one is great because it essentially goes away and doesn't distract from the textiles.

 

[Chaconne]

Thanks! Those sound awesome.

 

[Irish]

Keep trying to get an answer on this -- who still sells Eidos 54L? Anyone?

 

[NickPollica]



Keep trying to get an answer on this -- who still sells Eidos 54L?  Anyone?  

I believe Bloomingdales and NMWA are the only stores that offer variant sizing.

 

[NickPollica]

For those of you that are sick of all the low rise, tight pants that have flooded the market in the last 10 years, you'll be happy to know that our two higher rise, full leg chino models just hit Mr. Porter. They can both be seen in the editorial I did for their site last week here:

I wear some version the stone Nonno chino like 5 days a week but the Ambro belted pant in sage corded cotton pant is my favorite silhouette for the season. Funny story with how these came to be - I was visiting Salvatore Ambrosi's old workspace in Naples whe he showed me these old French motorcycle pants he'd bought in Japan. He gave them to me and told me he'd give me 1000 euro if I could find someone in Italy to replicate them as their details - particularly their belt and waistband construction - were too complex and required too much handwork. We refined them for everyday use but maintained the key details that made them special.

 

[Easily Amused]



For those of you that are sick of all the low rise, tight pants that have flooded the market in the last 10 years, you'll be happy to know that our two higher rise, full leg chino models just hit Mr. Porter. They can both be seen in the editorial I did for their site last week here:

I wear some version the stone Nonno chino like 5 days a week but the Ambro belted pant in sage corded cotton pant is my favorite silhouette for the season. Funny story with how these came to be - I was visiting Salvatore Ambrosi's old workspace in Naples whe he showed me these old French motorcycle pants he'd bought in Japan. He gave them to me and told me he'd give me 1000 euro if I could find someone in Italy to replicate them as their details - particularly their belt and waistband construction - were too complex and required too much handwork. We refined them for everyday use but maintained the key details that made them special.

Did Mr. Ambrosi pay you the 1000 euros?

 

[mossrockss]

Hey y'all I'm maybe considering selling my gun club sportcoat from last FW (from NMWA). Any 52's who may be interested PM me and if we can get a win win scenario on the price then, well, awesome. Haha.

P.S. ^japanese gambling pants look cool^

 

[teddieriley]



Did Mr. Ambrosi pay you the 1000 euros?

He offered a pair of bespoke pents Antonio would get in about a year (or never).