Educate me on Alumo

[poorsod]



How does Soyella compare to Riva?

I wasn't able to get any Soyella. The day I went to American Sember, things were packed away and the ones I wanted could not be found. BTW gdl203's new store carries a Soyella shirt made by G. Inglese. It happens to be on sale.

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/inde...wn-blue-striped-shirt-spread-collar-2174.html

I did buy lots of Alumo, but I focussed on the older single loom stuff in neato patterns and textures. Not Foo stuff. I also did get some triplo and that is awesome. And I would think right up foo's alley.

I think that you are right that Foo might quite like the Triplo. It is smooth with lots of body and I suspect the 3x3 yarn will last relatively long for what it is. The downside is that I think it wears a little warm. I don't mind given that I wear mostly linen and cotton/linen blends in the summer.

 

[mactire]

Alumo's website sucks. I am not happy with the 120s stuff they make. Too hard.

What are the other ranges? Soyella 170's? Soyella Duecento 200's? Salvatore Triplo 3-ply 160's? I've heard these mentioned by name but can't find much meaningful detail.

In feel, how do they compare to the Italian old-loomed stuff from Riva and Bonfanti?

My experience with Swiss cotton having seen the books and pricelists is that you're paying a lot for the fact that it is Swiss cotton.

 

[SartodiNapoli]



Foo, I have seen a lot of Alumo shirting and personally do not like the feel and finishing of the fabric, plus the 170/2 are considerably more transparent then the Riva 180/2 and the feel is nowhere near Riva and Bonfanti, although is clearly good stuff. Suggestion for a Riva ex customer? I would recommend Grandi & Rubinelli shirting, it is really good but can be expensive. Also, I have a lot of stuff in Atelier Romentino ( the lux brand of Testa, like SIC Tess is for Monti) which I also like a lot. I have one shirt is DJ Anderson, which is really good. The problem of the Thomas Mason classifications is that if you look at their Bespoke books (cut length) and their entry level lines, they have a lot of stuff made to be sold to major manufacturer at entry level standards e.g 70/2, which to them is sold as simply Albini. However in the top range there is some stuff that is produced at almost DJ Anderson level

 

[SartodiNapoli]

SIC TESS is not the higher label of Monti, just another brand from the same group with for me, lesser quality and worst finishing.

If SICC has 100/2 fabrics, how is that a deluxe label?

Alumo fabrics under 100 are honestly among the worst and scratchy around.

Alumo three ply triplo is the thickest and less transpirable fabric around so if you consider thick the 2 ply 120 this one is not for you definitely. Is only ok to go skying or under 0 degrees.

I am official reseller of Romentino as well in case anyone wants tu buy it and can't find. Awesome 170 and 200s mostly made for my Kiton friends. And best linen after Riva.

 

[CrimsonWave]



I've never liked particularly soft/silky cottons so have always been very happy with their Supraluxe, which IIRC is the 120/2 you mention. That slightly hard finish lends it a sense of airiness/freshness to me. Even their Superior 100/2 is OK albeit noticeably not as nice as Supraluxe.

My experience with Supraluxe has been similar. It is one of my favourite shirtings. Supraluxe is easy to iron and has good wrinkle resistance yet is both softer than most 120s or 100s and is lightweight for a 120s shirting.

 

[sangiuseppe]

In case you like heavy oxfords, they are amongst the best around

 

[mactire]

In case you like heavy oxfords, they are amongst the best around

Is there anything to recommend their heavy oxfords over Acorn?

 

[sangiuseppe]



Is there anything to recommend their heavy oxfords over Acorn?

Sorry Mac, but I am not familiar with acorn fabrics

 

[mactire]

Sorry Mac, but I am not familiar with acorn fabrics

Cheers bud, I'll have to get a length and compare the two one of the days.

 

[99percent]

SIC TESS is not the higher label of Monti, just another brand from the same group with for me, lesser quality and worst finishing.

This is something that I found interesting. I thought it is considered, at least by the iGentry, as one of the top shirting brands along the ones like Alumo, Riva, Grandi & Rubinelli etc. etc. Aren't they supposed to be the supplier of Charvet? At least that is the information that was repeated several times on the Styleforum. Can you please elaborate on your experiences with S.I.C. Tess compared to the other mills/labels, e.g. Prince Rose by Monti or Mason's Goldline (Bespoke)? I wonder if it is worth paying the premium. Also, let's not forget that Grandi & Rubinelli also offers 100/2 and yet is still considered to be a high-end, top quality mill.

 

[TheFoo]

I also understood SIC Tess to be on par with other top brands.

Regarding Alumo 120/2 shirting, is Supraluxe the only fabric they sell to that spec? The 120/2 shirting I have from Alumo is not easy to iron at all. In fact, my wife has forbidden me to order any more of it. I don't much like the way it wears, either. Terrible drape.

 

[marcodalondra]



I also understood SIC Tess to be on par with other top brands.

Regarding Alumo 120/2 shirting, is Supraluxe the only fabric they sell to that spec? The 120/2 shirting I have from Alumo is not easy to iron at all. In fact, my wife has forbidden me to order any more of it. I don't much like the way it wears, either. Terrible drape.

SIC Tess have great shirting within their books. If you like superlux stuff, their Bugatti range 200/2 is really good and their "operato" (sateen ribs or geometrical figures on a voile base) are amongst the best on the market (I have one). In addition they have some unique ranges like Cellostar (probably my favourite summer shirting).

 

[TheFoo]

So what would you recommend if I like the feel and drape of Riva, but want superior durability?

 

[marcodalondra]



So what would you recommend if I like the feel and drape of Riva, but want superior durability?

From only one supplier? Then it has to be Grandi & Rubinelli. Whilst mentioning the other mills I was trying to explain that other mills have equally good offers within their books, and for example some Romentino offering can be compared to some G&R but have a lower price. More then one shirtmaker has told me to prefer G&R to Riva, so it may be a further indication of my personal perception, however in terms of long term durability, anything from any maker at 170/2 and above become risky...

 

[TheFoo]

Up until a few years ago, I'd never heard of Rubinelli. Now they seem to come up in every shirting discussion. How do they compare to Bonfanti?

I have yet to hear from anyone else who has regularly worn their Riva shirts for more than a few years. Since mine were made at different times from different production runs, I doubt there was something wrong with the shirtings I happened to receive. It just seems like intrinsically fragile stuff. I am not willing to spend several hundred euros on a shirt that cannot get more than 20 wears without looking terribly frayed.

Does anyone else have extensive experience with Riva's competitors? A handful of wash cycles doesn't tell anything.