Difference between suit jacket and sport coat

[epa]

Originally Posted by letmebefell

No offence to your tailor, but next time, remind him who's wearing the coat and writing the checks. You can discuss how open you want the quarters, and how suppressed you want the waist, and where you want the pockets, and how high the waist is supposed to be, and how much fullness you want in the chest, but the tape tells the tale of how long the jacket is.

I actually want my tailor's advice, and I really enjoy talking with him. Now, he told me that a sport coat and a suit jacket are basically to be cut the same way. It is not that he refuses to do anything I suggest, but he sees no special reason to cut a suit jacket different form a sport coat, and I do not want to insist unless I really know why.
I understand from your answer that the length is to be the same. However, it seems that you suggest that other aspects could differ. It may be a silly question, but what does this with open quartes and closed quarters mean? And in what sense should a sport coat differ from a suit coat in this regard?
The thing is that I am satisfied with the suits he has made for me, but there is something about the only sportcoat he has made for me so far that I am not totally happy with, but I do not know why. I thought it was the length, but maybe it is something else.

 

[alliswell]

Let me see, then, if I can be more helpful than prescriptive.

The open/closed quarters refer to how open the coat is below the waist, and it's a question of taste as well as fit. Here's a thread:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=37465

It may also be the balance of the jackets. You'll find more here, from Manton:

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...=manton+poulin

Can you post pictures of a suit coat you like and the sportscoat that seems a little off? You'll get a better set of opinions from the group here.

Originally Posted by epa

I actually want my tailor's advice, and I really enjoy talking with him. Now, he told me that a sport coat and a suit jacket are basically to be cut the same way. It is not that he refuses to do anything I suggest, but he sees no special reason to cut a suit jacket different form a sport coat, and I do not want to insist unless I really know why.
I understand from your answer that the length is to be the same. However, it seems that you suggest that other aspects could differ. It may be a silly question, but what does this with open quartes and closed quarters mean? And in what sense should a sport coat differ from a suit coat in this regard?
The thing is that I am satisfied with the suits he has made for me, but there is something about the only sportcoat he has made for me so far that I am not totally happy with, but I do not know why. I thought it was the length, but maybe it is something else.

 

[Tarmac]

Originally Posted by letmebefell

Shorter is just as wrong as longer. Whether you're getting it made or altered, it should be right.


Still, there is room for personal preference as well as designer preference. Maybe an inch?

Take the coat which cover's your proverbial ass - some people like it 1/2 inch shorter than that, some like it 1/2 inch longer, some people like it how it is. It's not "wrong" either way.

 

[alliswell]

Absolutely. However, I read the posts above as saying that all sportscoats should be shorter than all suit coats. I just don't see a reason to say that other than for a given person, and then only within a small margin determined by taste. It's not a rule of thumb.

Originally Posted by Tarmac

Still, there is room for personal preference as well as designer preference. Maybe an inch?

Take the coat which cover's your proverbial ass - some people like it 1/2 inch shorter than that, some like it 1/2 inch longer, some people like it how it is. It's not "wrong" either way.

 

[epa]

triple post

 

[epa]

triple post

 

[epa]

Originally Posted by letmebefell

Absolutely. However, I read the posts above as saying that all sportscoats should be shorter than all suit coats. I just don't see a reason to say that other than for a given person, and then only within a small margin determined by taste. It's not a rule of thumb.

You got me right, I was talking about whether it was a rule of thumb. Thank's a lot. And nice links.

(I actually thought about publishing a picture of the sport coat, but I was afraid of receiving a lot of negative feedback telling me that it looks like an orphaned suit jacket (not because of its length but because it has pinstripes

)).

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by letmebefell

Why would this be the case?

I'm not sure. I think it has something to do with the coat and jacket being the same color. I read it on some forum (probably LL) from someone much more knowledgeable about these things than I am. I delayed my reply in hopes that one of those types might answer you. Maybe this bump will attract his/their attn.

Btw., I love your avatar/icon thing. I wouldn't have thought to combine those items that way, but I think it's a great look.