Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[discomute]

Thanks guys

PS. I was aware of the theory and order behind "getting the last first" but the issue with living in Australia is that this can only be done by ordering a lot of boots beforehand.

I've got a single pair in a Barrie last that fit "okay, fine" but I do suspect they might be a touch wide. But I'm not sure. If I was going Barrie again I'd probably stick to it as I'd prefer it fits than too small.

Since I'm going to a 55 next in a BH I will likely go down in width as per some advice from Bakers. Anyway - this topic has my interest for these reasons..still very much a student in this thread.

 

[Chupacabra]

I rescind my earlier statement. It appears I might be mistaken about my instep volume. Here is a stock SD ‘try-on’ from when Kyle was fitting me.

I’d say that’s easily 3 fingers in between eyelets.

Here is a picture with the ‘Open instep WIDE’ adjustment.

the open instep adjustment allows the quarters to run much more parallel vs looking like a V.

 

[Legal Eagles]

My need for the open instep adjustment seems counter indicating from the explanation above...

It does seem counter intuitive, as one would think a bigger instep would make the eyelets move further apart, necessitating a "closed instep"... who can say...

 

[Chupacabra]

@Legal Eagles I think my post 14463 shows the difference the adjustment makes fairly well.

 

[Legal Eagles]

@Legal Eagles I think my post 14463 shows the difference fairly well.

Your post seems to show the eyelets on the try on pair as being too far apart... yet they recommended an "open instep"... which moved the eyelets closer together. This seems contrary to @sambam 's statement that an open instep is used when they eyelets are too close, not too far apart... what am I missing here?

Can you help me harmonize your photos with @sambam 's explanation? Perhaps I am just obtuse...

If a customer always has issues with the eyelets lacing [too closely] together, we will open the instep to help this problem.

 

[linafelt]

Your post seems to show the eyelets on the try on pair as being too far apart... yet they recommended an "open instep"... which moved the eyelets closer together. This seems contrary to @sambam 's statement that an open instep is used when they eyelets are too close, not too far apart... what am I missing here?

Can you help me harmonize your photos with @sambam 's explanation? Perhaps I am just obtuse...

I was thinking the same thing..

 

[linafelt]

I rescind my earlier statement. It appears I might be mistaken about my instep volume. Here is a stock SD ‘try-on’ from when Kyle was fitting me.
View attachment 1317672
I’d say that easily 3 fingers in between eyelets.

Here is a picture with the ‘Open instep WIDE’ adjustment.
View attachment 1317676

the open instep adjustment allows the quarters to run much more parallel vs looking like a V.

In any case, these are good looking boots!

 

[Chupacabra]

Based on my measurements and tracing Kyle recommended the adjustment. I am sure he said it was due to the girth of the foot being so large in the instep. The recommendation wasn’t based on this photo. This was just a try on pair to get length and width I just happened to snap a pic. So the top pic is a stock (no instep adjustment) SD.

I do think the bottom picture illustrates how this adjustment effects fit. Not only are the eyelets closer but the run much more parallel up the boot when laced. Your observations are correct that the adjustment did bring the eyelets closer together.

 

[hoppy_IPA]

Kyle suggested open instep for my boots due to high instep volume as well. 50/50 shot, I’m guessing Sambam just got his wires crossed?

 

[test32323]

Looking to buy the horse hide bounty hunter from baker's.
anyone know what is the black friday pricing on that particular configuration?

 

[Rolanberry]

@sambam... can you once and for all clear up what is and what is the effect of an "open instep" from the bootmaker's perspective?

Thanks,

For me, I have a low instep, low volume feet, but wide at the ball of the feet and long and wide at the toes; on plaintoe boots without the open instep adjustment during lasting, the first 4-5 eyelets will be very close to touching, and then the eyelets will widen out at the ankle and have normal spacing as as I lace them up the shaft. On my boots with the open instep, the eyelets are a uniform distance apart. There are no measurements I gave, and I have never been charged for requesting it.

 

[miggyramone]

Has White's ruined other boots for you guys?

I just got a pair of Grant Stone Diesel boots. Fine boots with great finishing. They just don't feel 'right'. I was looking for something a little more versatile for nights out. The fit isn't bad but definitely don't have that White's Hand made feel. I think White's has just spoiled me.

 

[Legal Eagles]

Has White's ruined other boots for you guys?

I just got a pair of Grant Stone Diesel boots. Fine boots with great finishing. They just don't feel 'right'. I was looking for something a little more versatile for nights out. The fit isn't bad but definitely don't have that White's Hand made feel. I think White's has just spoiled me.

Yes, mostly the arch support... we are having a little storm here today so I put on my LL Bean boots and it felt like I was wearing Chuck Taylors...

 

[Woodtroll]

Has White's ruined other boots for you guys?

I just got a pair of Grant Stone Diesel boots. Fine boots with great finishing. They just don't feel 'right'. I was looking for something a little more versatile for nights out. The fit isn't bad but definitely don't have that White's Hand made feel. I think White's has just spoiled me.

I’ve worn White’s, Drew’s, or Nick’s boots almost my whole adult life; Red Wing loggers before that. I don’t own a pair of tennis shoes, and only a pair each of pull-on Western and engineer boots that I very seldom wear. I’m on my feet most of the day, and nothing beats the solid support with freedom of movement that a good pair of well-broken-in lace-up boots provides. My “dress” boots are a pair each of black and brown packers, although one pair is a “short” 8” pair as compared to my usual 10” boot.

So yes, good boots have spoiled me, but they will last practically forever with a little care and are worth every penny!

 

[andy b.]

Damn! I never knew this was an option. I have narrow feet and the eyelets are less than 1" apart on almost every pair of footwear I own.
I have a pair of 8" Smokejumpers in distressed roughout ordered through Bakers that are in the build process now and I would have went for this option. Is there a name for such an option from the ankle to the shin to open the spacing there? I could use 1" of open spacing from above the arch all the way to the top of the lacing. LOL

We lace up the bottom 4 eyelets before lasting to help keep the proper finished lacing width. We use two finger widths for standard lacing. Open instep is laced very loose or not at all. Closed instep is almost together. If a customer always has issues with the eyelets lacing together, we will open the instep to help this problem.