Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[Chawk806]

Omg they look so much better after they have been worn than new. Thanks for sharing the photos !!!

 

[marcusg]

I don't know if you have any White's with the standard last, but I'm wondering if you know the difference between the standard last and the "bounty hunter" last? I understand the bounty hunter boot is based on the semi-dress last. My smoke jumpers are based on the standard last and I'm getting some pinching in my toe-box. I'm wondering if my problem could be solved by a slightly more roomy toe-box found in a different last. Any advice?

 

[Whirling]

I went to Spokane and was measured in the store a few months ago, all they did was use a Brannock and tape measure to get size and width. I will probably make the trip again for a more thorough fitting, as the boots have broken in one has heel slip that's become more pronounced.

I have heard of other people being fitted by White's, the company itself, into boots that are too large. Short of getting boots that have been truly made to fit you precisely, there is no better way than trying on boots in different lengths and widths around where you think you should be and going with the one that feels best, appears to fit the length of your heel-to-ball correctly, and leaves plenty of room in front of your toes (toes should never be touching the front of the boot, even when walking down hill carrying a backpack). Boots should be rather snug, width-wise, when new, as they will stretch some. This is why I think new boots should be checked for length with socks that are thicker than you plan on wearing, but checked for width with thinner socks than you will be wearing.

Whites gets stuck with your boots if they make them even a little too small, but can find a way to make boots a little large fit you, even if imperfectly, using inserts or whatever, so they have a bias to err on the large side.

 

[mr. burns]



I don't know if you have any White's with the standard last, but I'm wondering if you know the difference between the standard last and the "bounty hunter" last?  I understand the bounty hunter boot is based on the semi-dress last.  My smoke jumpers are based on the standard last and I'm getting some pinching in my toe-box.  I'm wondering if my problem could be solved by a slightly more roomy toe-box found in a different last.  Any advice?

standard last is more round and roomy than the semidress. maybe you need swing last.

 

[Royteane]

I also have pinching in standard last but much more comfortable in semidress last.

 

[RickyTylerson]

Whites gets stuck with your boots if they make them even a little too small, but can find a way to make boots a little large fit you, even if imperfectly, using inserts or whatever, so they have a bias to err on the large side.

I don't really think that is is true. I've been measured in the White's store twice and each time the fit has been super snug which is the intended fit. My dad and my brother have been fitted for White's at the store and have had no problems with fit.


If you are really concerned about fit, ask them to send you a try on boot. Send in a tracing, they'll tell you a size, tell them to send a try on boot. Thats what I did the last time I ordered a pair using a tracing and measurements. (edit : I guess this may only be possible when ordering direct through White's. Bakers may not have enough stock for this.)

Also, people always mention customized lasts and such - you can also request custom measured uppers.

 

[RickyTylerson]

standard last is more round and roomy than the semidress. maybe you need swing last.

I'm not so sure that is right. From what I've read the semi dress last is wider, and from what I've seen the semi dress last has a rounder outside toe area.

If you're having a pinched area I'd suggest calling White's and seeing what they can do about it.

 

[TH3515]

I don't know if you have any White's with the standard last, but I'm wondering if you know the difference between the standard last and the "bounty hunter" last? I understand the bounty hunter boot is based on the semi-dress last. My smoke jumpers are based on the standard last and I'm getting some pinching in my toe-box. I'm wondering if my problem could be solved by a slightly more roomy toe-box found in a different last. Any advice?

The toe pinch seems to be pretty common with the SJ last. When my Farmer-Ranchers were new, they mangled my pinky toes (especially on the right foot, which is a little bigger) badly. I didn't take time to break them in but walked many miles on the first few days so it was partly my fault. The discomfort disappeared completely after a few more days of wearing them (after some days' break to give my toes time to heal;-) Now they fit like they're molded to my feet – snug but very comfortable.

If you look at an SJ last boot from above, you'll find that its sides are relatively straight and the tip has a somewhat angular, "square" taper. The SD/BH last on the other hand looks more curved along the side of the foot and has a more even taper at the front which looks more like your typical "dress" boot.

I think that the inconsistent accounts you get wrt the width / toe room of the different lasts are all correct even though they are sometimes opposing each other. They simply reflect the fact that boots and feet are part of a pretty complex equation. For example, I find the SemiDress last to be significantly wider throughout the whole boot. Sounds like good news for the toes. But to get the same secure fit I have in, say, a D width Smokejumper last boot, I would have to get the Semi Dress at least one width narrower – my C width SDs still feel too wide around the instep and heel but the toe room is now actually much tighter than in the (less tapered) SJ boots. So for my feet with narrow heel/instep and relatively wide toes, the SJ last works better.

If you want to increase toe width in relation to overall width, you could probably try the #38 "swing" last which has a very wide toe box. This also gives it a characteristic look that is not to everybody's taste.
Depending on where the "pinch" is located in your current SJs, you could also check if you don't actually need a longer boot: Going e.g. from a 10D to a 10.5C should result in the same width but would also give the toes more clearance.

 

[marcusg]

I'm not so sure that is right. From what I've read the semi dress last is wider, and from what I've seen the semi dress last has a rounder outside toe area.

If you're having a pinched area I'd suggest calling White's and seeing what they can do about it.

from most snug in the toe-box to most roomy.... (all other differences aside)
1. standard
2. semi-dress
3. swing
Right?

Where does the "classic" last fit in to this picture? Thanks for your help.

 

[Whirling]

I don't really think that is is true. I've been measured in the White's store twice and each time the fit has been super snug which is the intended fit. My dad and my brother have been fitted for White's at the store and have had no problems with fit.


If you are really concerned about fit, ask them to send you a try on boot. Send in a tracing, they'll tell you a size, tell them to send a try on boot. Thats what I did the last time I ordered a pair using a tracing and measurements. (edit : I guess this may only be possible when ordering direct through White's. Bakers may not have enough stock for this.)

Also, people always mention customized lasts and such - you can also request custom measured uppers.

Thanks for the information. I was just going off of what a couple people had reported here. I am glad that their experience is not universal. A Try On boot would certainly be safer. I suppose one could ask if Baker's can do this.

The limit of the Try On boot is that sometimes it takes a while to figure out if a boot fits well. Also, unless one tries multiple sizes, it can be tough to know which is best. However, I will admit that I have far more difficulties getting the best fit than most guys.

 

[Whirling]

The toe pinch seems to be pretty common with the SJ last. When my Farmer-Ranchers were new, they mangled my pinky toes (especially on the right foot, which is a little bigger) badly. I didn't take time to break them in but walked many miles on the first few days so it was partly my fault. The discomfort disappeared completely after a few more days of wearing them (after some days' break to give my toes time to heal;-) Now they fit like they're molded to my feet – snug but very comfortable.

If you look at an SJ last boot from above, you'll find that its sides are relatively straight and the tip has a somewhat angular, "square" taper. The SD/BH last on the other hand looks more curved along the side of the foot and has a more even taper at the front which looks more like your typical "dress" boot.

I think that the inconsistent accounts you get wrt the width / toe room of the different lasts are all correct even though they are sometimes opposing each other. They simply reflect the fact that boots and feet are part of a pretty complex equation. For example, I find the SemiDress last to be significantly wider throughout the whole boot. Sounds like good news for the toes. But to get the same secure fit I have in, say, a D width Smokejumper last boot, I would have to get the Semi Dress at least one width narrower – my C width SDs still feel too wide around the instep and heel but the toe room is now actually much tighter than in the (less tapered) SJ boots. So for my feet with narrow heel/instep and relatively wide toes, the SJ last works better.

If you want to increase toe width in relation to overall width, you could probably try the #38 "swing" last which has a very wide toe box. This also gives it a characteristic look that is not to everybody's taste.
Depending on where the "pinch" is located in your current SJs, you could also check if you don't actually need a longer boot: Going e.g. from a 10D to a 10.5C should result in the same width but would also give the toes more clearance.

You make many great points and share some great information. The complexity of foot shape, in addition to other qualities of feet, certainly can make it exceedingly difficult to find the best fit. So far, I have been happy with my SDs in 9.5 C, but I do wonder sometimes whether I would be happier in 10 B. As I feel one can only tell once the boots are broken in, there is only one way to find out...

 

[petersim]

Here's the Rough Out builld I've wanted to do for awhile. Was tempted to try out Nick's but was hesitant based off the wait times I was hearing.
Took about a month from ordering to showing up at my doorstep.

• Last: Semi Dress (Bounty Hunter)
• Counter Leather: Brown Rough Out
• Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Rough Out
• Upper (Shaft) Leather: Brown Rough Out
• Leather Liner: No Thanks
• Lace Design: Plain Toe
• Pull Loops: Leather Pull Loops
• Celastic Toe Box: No Thanks
• Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap (only available on plain toe style)
• Toe Cap Leather Color: Brown Rough Out
• Steel Toe: No Thanks
• Hardware: All Brass Eyes
• Height: 7"
• Top: Cut Top (standard)
• Midsole: Single
• Edge: Natural
• Heel Base: 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler)
• Heel Lifts: 1/4" Lower
• Sole: Vibram 430 Mini Vib
• Size - Length: 8.5
• Size - Width: E

 

[JakeVooDoo]

2 months of heavy use with my bounty hunters. they're darker than jakevoodoo's because they were initially treated with a light coat of obenauf's as they get wet and dirty from work a bit.

Looking Good, I love my 'rough' style (not roughout, but not smooth) and see them eventually getting shiny like these. Trying to keep them as rough as I can, but already see a shine on the heal from rubbing on the car carpet.

Lacing:
http://www.fieggen.com/shoelace/lacingmethods.htm
Any one use a special lacing on their boots?

Sock's:
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=wool+socks&tbm=shop
What are the best pair of socks in hot weather? Anyone have a quality sock they love and feel is worth spending money on?

Breaking in:
I think the inserts are working great to alive that Arch Ease Whites comes with.

 

[Sunstealer73]

I use over/under on all my work boots. It makes the laces easier to tighten and loosen, especially for the ones without speed hooks.

 

[RickyTylerson]

I'd be interested to hear what socks everyone is using as well.

I've found that thorlo hiking socks are really nice. they're not overly thick but the padding is still great.

I also wear smart wool light hiking during the fall and warmer times - and use the smartwool mountaineering for working outside.