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I went to Spokane and was measured in the store a few months ago, all they did was use a Brannock and tape measure to get size and width. I will probably make the trip again for a more thorough fitting, as the boots have broken in one has heel slip that's become more pronounced.
I don't know if you have any White's with the standard last, but I'm wondering if you know the difference between the standard last and the "bounty hunter" last? I understand the bounty hunter boot is based on the semi-dress last. My smoke jumpers are based on the standard last and I'm getting some pinching in my toe-box. I'm wondering if my problem could be solved by a slightly more roomy toe-box found in a different last. Any advice?
I don't really think that is is true. I've been measured in the White's store twice and each time the fit has been super snug which is the intended fit. My dad and my brother have been fitted for White's at the store and have had no problems with fit.Whites gets stuck with your boots if they make them even a little too small, but can find a way to make boots a little large fit you, even if imperfectly, using inserts or whatever, so they have a bias to err on the large side.
I'm not so sure that is right. From what I've read the semi dress last is wider, and from what I've seen the semi dress last has a rounder outside toe area.standard last is more round and roomy than the semidress. maybe you need swing last.
The toe pinch seems to be pretty common with the SJ last. When my Farmer-Ranchers were new, they mangled my pinky toes (especially on the right foot, which is a little bigger) badly. I didn't take time to break them in but walked many miles on the first few days so it was partly my fault. The discomfort disappeared completely after a few more days of wearing them (after some days' break to give my toes time to heal;-) Now they fit like they're molded to my feet – snug but very comfortable.I don't know if you have any White's with the standard last, but I'm wondering if you know the difference between the standard last and the "bounty hunter" last? I understand the bounty hunter boot is based on the semi-dress last. My smoke jumpers are based on the standard last and I'm getting some pinching in my toe-box. I'm wondering if my problem could be solved by a slightly more roomy toe-box found in a different last. Any advice?
I'm not so sure that is right. From what I've read the semi dress last is wider, and from what I've seen the semi dress last has a rounder outside toe area.
If you're having a pinched area I'd suggest calling White's and seeing what they can do about it.
I don't really think that is is true. I've been measured in the White's store twice and each time the fit has been super snug which is the intended fit. My dad and my brother have been fitted for White's at the store and have had no problems with fit.
If you are really concerned about fit, ask them to send you a try on boot. Send in a tracing, they'll tell you a size, tell them to send a try on boot. Thats what I did the last time I ordered a pair using a tracing and measurements. (edit : I guess this may only be possible when ordering direct through White's. Bakers may not have enough stock for this.)
Also, people always mention customized lasts and such - you can also request custom measured uppers.
The toe pinch seems to be pretty common with the SJ last. When my Farmer-Ranchers were new, they mangled my pinky toes (especially on the right foot, which is a little bigger) badly. I didn't take time to break them in but walked many miles on the first few days so it was partly my fault. The discomfort disappeared completely after a few more days of wearing them (after some days' break to give my toes time to heal;-) Now they fit like they're molded to my feet – snug but very comfortable.
If you look at an SJ last boot from above, you'll find that its sides are relatively straight and the tip has a somewhat angular, "square" taper. The SD/BH last on the other hand looks more curved along the side of the foot and has a more even taper at the front which looks more like your typical "dress" boot.
I think that the inconsistent accounts you get wrt the width / toe room of the different lasts are all correct even though they are sometimes opposing each other. They simply reflect the fact that boots and feet are part of a pretty complex equation. For example, I find the SemiDress last to be significantly wider throughout the whole boot. Sounds like good news for the toes. But to get the same secure fit I have in, say, a D width Smokejumper last boot, I would have to get the Semi Dress at least one width narrower – my C width SDs still feel too wide around the instep and heel but the toe room is now actually much tighter than in the (less tapered) SJ boots. So for my feet with narrow heel/instep and relatively wide toes, the SJ last works better.
If you want to increase toe width in relation to overall width, you could probably try the #38 "swing" last which has a very wide toe box. This also gives it a characteristic look that is not to everybody's taste.
Depending on where the "pinch" is located in your current SJs, you could also check if you don't actually need a longer boot: Going e.g. from a 10D to a 10.5C should result in the same width but would also give the toes more clearance.
Here's the Rough Out builld I've wanted to do for awhile. Was tempted to try out Nick's but was hesitant based off the wait times I was hearing.
Took about a month from ordering to showing up at my doorstep.
- Last: Semi Dress (Bounty Hunter)
- Counter Leather: Brown Rough Out
- Toe Vamp Leather: Brown Rough Out
- Upper (Shaft) Leather: Brown Rough Out
- Leather Liner: No Thanks
- Lace Design: Plain Toe
- Pull Loops: Leather Pull Loops
- Celastic Toe Box: No Thanks
- Toe Cap: Leather Toe Cap (only available on plain toe style)
- Toe Cap Leather Color: Brown Rough Out
- Steel Toe: No Thanks
- Hardware: All Brass Eyes
- Height: 7"
- Top: Cut Top (standard)
- Midsole: Single
- Edge: Natural
- Heel Base: 90 Degree Blocked off Heel (Traveler)
- Heel Lifts: 1/4" Lower
- Sole: Vibram 430 Mini Vib
- Size - Length: 8.5
- Size - Width: E
Looking Good, I love my 'rough' style (not roughout, but not smooth) and see them eventually getting shiny like these. Trying to keep them as rough as I can, but already see a shine on the heal from rubbing on the car carpet.