Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[patrick_b]



Fantastic news.  It looks like White's and Bakers have come through.  I'll definitely be going through Bakers the next pair of White's I buy.

Exactly. Me too.

 

[jrosenthal]



If I bought the boots as work wear I would be much less worried about markings, and much more worried about wonky heels.

I bought them as dress boots, so the heels don't bother me too much, the stain does.

On a related note, I told Kyle not to send an exact copy of those boots, but he insisted. Now I have two pair... I could never bring myself to throw away a perfectly functional pair of whites...

Well, since the wonky pair have two cosmetic flaws (the glue and the spot on the dress leather) and the heel can be fixed by a decent cobbler, I would see about having them dyed black, having the heel fixed, then you would have your polychrome pair and your black pair.

James

 

[knucks]

I recently sent my White's to get resoled. 6-8week wait. Drews Boots told me they will try to get them back to me early October as I want them before my travels to the east coast. Cannot wait

 

[Royteane]

Anyone owned smokejumper and Alden? I'd like to know if you need to down 0.5 size to Indy or any berrie last.

 

[oreospeedwagon]

Apologies for the sizing question, but I thought I'd get a second opinion. I recently sent my tracings in to Kyle at Baker's, who had me try a 12D Smoke Jumper for fit. The length is good, and from heel to ball, the boots fit better than anything I've ever worn, as though my feet are bandaged. However, the boots are a little tight along the outside of the pinkie toes, and I worry that the width might become a problem down the line. I can deal with blisters at break-in; I can't deal with rebuild or resale.

I've narrowed it down to a custom Bounty Hunter in either smooth distressed or CXL, likely unlined, and am wondering if I might be better off going with a 12E. Kyle seemed to think the E might be more comfortable out of the box, but thought the D width would fit better over time, owing to the snug fit through the heel and arch and with the expectation of the leather stretching with use. My question is, how much do White's stretch in width, and for those who have worn both, is there any difference in fit (particularly width-wise) between the Semi-Dress and the Smoke Jumper lasts?

Thanks!

 

[jrosenthal]



Apologies for the sizing question, but I thought I'd get a second opinion. I recently sent my tracings in to Kyle at Baker's, who had me try a 12D Smoke Jumper for fit. The length is good, and from heel to ball, the boots fit better than anything I've ever worn, as though my feet are bandaged. However, the boots are a little tight along the outside of the pinkie toes, and I worry that the width might become a problem down the line. I can deal with blisters at break-in; I can't deal with rebuild or resale.

I've narrowed it down to a custom Bounty Hunter in either smooth distressed or CXL, likely unlined, and am wondering if I might be better off going with a 12E. Kyle seemed to think the E might be more comfortable out of the box, but thought the D width would fit better over time, owing to the snug fit through the heel and arch and with the expectation of the leather stretching with use. My question is, how much do White's stretch in width, and for those who have worn both, is there any difference in fit (particularly width-wise) between the Semi-Dress and the Smoke Jumper lasts?

Thanks!

Having recently gone through the fit process by trying on 3 different boots on different lasts in my size I can say that if the smoke jumper last is narrow on your toes, go with the semi-dress last which is more generous. If you need to buy a little more room on the toe box see if they can go up to the 154 oxford last (not listed as an option but Kyle said they could do it). If you tend to always have toe crunching issues with shoes (like I do because my toes have a more natural spread and my pinky toes are not set back on the sides like a more common European foot) then the swing last is your savior if you can dig on the Munson style toe box, which takes some getting used to visually, but is incredible for toe wiggle. I second guessed Kyle on the sizing and went up a 1/2 size and my boots are indeed 1/2 size too long, he knows what he's talking about for width and length but only you can assess the toe box feel.
I have worn my boots 4 of the last 7 days and can tell you they do ease up a bit and stretch, not a whole lot, but everything relaxes and you start to feel more slip and wiggle and find yourself lacing a little tighter....but toe rub will never get better and what starts as a little annoying will become agony like water torture by hour 6...I speak from personal experience. It's not just about length and width, it's most importantly about the last, we are lucky to have a company like White's that offers so many last options.

James

 

[jrosenthal]



Anyone owned smokejumper and Alden? I'd like to know if you need to down 0.5 size to Indy or any berrie last.

I am 1/2 size down and width size up from Alden to White's (Barrie 11D, White's 10.5E). But they are very different fits, send your measurements to Kyle at Baker's and get it right.

James

 

[Royteane]

I am 1/2 size down and width size up from Alden to White's (Barrie 11D, White's 10.5E). But they are very different fits, send your measurements to Kyle at Baker's and get it right.

James

Thanks,

actually I have smokejumper sized by Kyle, and looking for Alden Shell

 

[b-ewing]

Assuming you're looking at Truebalance or Barrie lasted boots, they should be roughly the same size as a pair of Semi Dress, which is to say approx 1/2 size larger than your Brannock ("true") size

For reference I'm a 10D on Brannock
-9.5 D/B on Truebalance and Barrie
-9.5D on SD or #55 last
-10D on lace to toe SJs (which is a different last than yours I believe)
-10D Wesco (across the board)

 

[linafelt]

^^ I have found Trubalance to be slightly tighter in the toe width (and lower in the toebox naturally) than SD last.

As others have said, SD slightly more roomy than SJ.

 

[grendel]

Apologies for the sizing question, but I thought I'd get a second opinion. I recently sent my tracings in to Kyle at Baker's, who had me try a 12D Smoke Jumper for fit. The length is good, and from heel to ball, the boots fit better than anything I've ever worn, as though my feet are bandaged. However, the boots are a little tight along the outside of the pinkie toes, and I worry that the width might become a problem down the line. I can deal with blisters at break-in; I can't deal with rebuild or resale.

I've narrowed it down to a custom Bounty Hunter in either smooth distressed or CXL, likely unlined, and am wondering if I might be better off going with a 12E. Kyle seemed to think the E might be more comfortable out of the box, but thought the D width would fit better over time, owing to the snug fit through the heel and arch and with the expectation of the leather stretching with use. My question is, how much do White's stretch in width, and for those who have worn both, is there any difference in fit (particularly width-wise) between the Semi-Dress and the Smoke Jumper lasts?

Thanks!

If you go CXL I'd stick with the D width. CXL stretches and molds to your foot.

 

[Mattisgrat]

So I pulled the trigger with Kyle at Baker's for my new winter boots. Will post pics when they hopefully arrive in a couple months of the first insulated bounty hunters.

INSULATED Bounty Hunter
Size: 9 E
Leather: Brown Dress
Cap Toe: Brown Dress Medallion
Celastic Toe Box: NONE
Heel Counter: Brown Dress
Height: 7"
Upper Leather: Brown Dress
Sole Trim: Close Trim
Top: Rolled
Back Stay Leather: Brown Dress
Pull Loop: No
Eyelet Color: Antique
Eyelet Configuration: Hook and Eyelet
Top Garment: Hook
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Lace: Leather
False Tongue: Brown Dress
Sole: Vibe 430
Heel Shape: Block
Heel Height: Minus 1/4"
Last: Semi Dress Last
Midsole: Standard
Edge Color: Brown
No White’s logos or stamps

 

[jrosenthal]



So I pulled the trigger with Kyle at Baker's for my new winter boots. Will post pics when they hopefully arrive in a couple months of the first insulated bounty hunters.

INSULATED Bounty Hunter
Size: 9 E
Leather: Brown Dress
Cap Toe: Brown Dress Medallion
Celastic Toe Box: NONE
Heel Counter: Brown Dress
Height: 7"
Upper Leather: Brown Dress
Sole Trim: Close Trim
Top: Rolled
Back Stay Leather: Brown Dress
Pull Loop: No
Eyelet Color: Antique
Eyelet Configuration: Hook and Eyelet
Top Garment: Hook
Lace Design: Plain Toe
Lace: Leather
False Tongue: Brown Dress
Sole: Vibe 430
Heel Shape: Block
Heel Height: Minus 1/4"
Last: Semi Dress Last
Midsole: Standard
Edge Color: Brown
No White’s logos or stamps

Does white's usually offer an insulated boot not in their lower line? What are they insulating them with? How does the insulation affect the sizing (have to go wider?). Inquiring minds want to know! A true insultated winter boot in a custom build can be a game changer. I usually throw on my 20 year old Sorel's which are overkill in the mid-Atlantic unless we actually have 2 feet of snow but working outside for 4 hours in 20 degree weather sucks in dress boots.

James

 

[Mattisgrat]

I was looking for a fashionable winter boot that I could wear to meetings in the winter with a suit after work without looking silly. Here in Ottawa it's miserable for at least 3 months of the year. Being Canadian I started with Viberg and wanted an insulated service boot but they're not really into that sort of thing. I then stumbled upon a whites semi dress as an option similar to the Viberg... asked Kyle at Bakers if they could insulate it and he said he'd never had that request before so he called whites and they said they couldn't but they could do a bounty hunter insulated since they already have the insulated patterns from the insulated smoke jumpers.

Now, this isn't going to be a replacement for pac boot like the Sorels but given you're mid atlantic I would think that it would certainly be up to the challenge for at least 90% of winter weather in your area. The only option for insulation is 400g thinsulate which is pretty good for short stints in the cold or walking around in the very cold.

As for sizing, I sent my tracings to Kyle like I would for any boot. I assume (hope) that White's standard insulated patterns make the allowance for the increased bulk of the insulation.

I'll let you know when I get em how the sizing and such works out!

 

[jrosenthal]

Please keep us informed! I have the same issue (jacket trousers and tie, not a suit) where I'm in office among suit clad folks and on a construction dig 20 mintues later for 3 hours and need to look presentable and be comfortable and not slide off a rock pile in my prissy shoes (although the construction guys marvel at me scaling a rubble stone wall in my vintage Hanover wingtips without missing a beat-they seem to love it as the brass won't step off the pavement in their Gucci loafers).

I could happily work for many a winter season hours in a swing lasted insulated bounty hunter with Vibram 100 sole. Hope you get them fast so you can report and I can get an order in and back before the nasty stuff comes in January.

James