CM combinations and silhouettes constructive improvement thread

[JohnMRobie]

Bumping this thread to talk a little bit about silhouettes.

A friend and I were chatting and noted that one of the things that comes up fairly frequently is that (especially) with tailoring that there are certain silhouettes and tailoring styles that work better with different body shapes and body features. This sometimes comes up when someone is looking for a suit and asks where they should look (hopefully it’s considered instead of being told they need to run and buy a Spier neo cut) and more often on the bespoke project thread or first bespoke as people consider house style, where to go, etc.

The thing we noticed though is that this vague “what flatters your body” doesn’t get answered often. It’s lobbed out as a “consider this” but without things to think about, look for or where someone may start. Our tailors do the best they can with what they have to work with but for the most part are working within the constraints of their house style and how they were trained.

I’ll post some pictures later but wanted to put this out to the group. How do you figure out what style/silhouette/tradition worked best for your body? What have you found works best and why? And can we establish any sort of baseline of where it would be helpful for guys to look as they start the process?

Some things I think are important and I consider would be body shape and build - What am I trying to achieve with the tailoring. And then shoulder shape and slope. An example would be anyone who has spent some time looking at tailors house styles and pictures of Simon C has a good idea of what extremely sloping shoulders look like with various tailors and how much the shoulder structure, extension, roping etc can do to change that look.

But that brings us to a pitfall of looking at cuts on other people and trying to translate that to ourselves and don’t take body shape into consideration. This is particularly risky when sources of inspiration vary so much. Mark Cho for example is built very differently than Gazman and differently from Vox and differently from Simon C.

Vox has a fair bit of Steed but it doesn’t look particularly like most Steed.

 

[msimon]

Bumping this thread to talk a little bit about silhouettes.

A friend and I were chatting and noted that one of the things that comes up fairly frequently is that (especially) with tailoring that there are certain silhouettes and tailoring styles that work better with different body shapes and body features. This sometimes comes up when someone is looking for a suit and asks where they should look (hopefully it’s considered instead of being told they need to run and buy a Spier neo cut) and more often on the bespoke project thread or first bespoke as people consider house style, where to go, etc.

The thing we noticed though is that this vague “what flatters your body” doesn’t get answered often. It’s lobbed out as a “consider this” but without things to think about, look for or where someone may start. Our tailors do the best they can with what they have to work with but for the most part are working within the constraints of their house style and how they were trained.

I’ll post some pictures later but wanted to put this out to the group. How do you figure out what style/silhouette/tradition worked best for your body? What have you found works best and why? And can we establish any sort of baseline of where it would be helpful for guys to look as they start the process?

I still consider myself as a newcomer to CM. I started years ago before joining the forum and at the end of the day I had to just try and experiment with what works and doesn't. I had to go through countless fits and styles with jeans and trousers, then to shirts and now I am onto ordering my first blazer sometime this month.

I get the, I would die for a body like yours but honestly you don't because it has been a pain to fit into anything clothing, it's been a nightmare but now I know what flatters my body and even now I question if I look good or not with my style choices which is mostly jeans and tailored shirts now.

 

[Sreezy36]

I still consider myself as a newcomer to CM. I started years ago before joining the forum and at the end of the day I had to just try and experiment with what works and doesn't. I had to go through countless fits and styles with jeans and trousers, then to shirts and now I am onto ordering my first blazer sometime this month.

I get the, I would die for a body like yours but honestly you don't because it has been a pain to fit into anything clothing, it's been a nightmare but now I know what flatters my body and even now I question if I look good or not with my style choices which is mostly jeans and tailored shirts now.

This is a great thread for you. I suggest that you build your wardrobe slowly and methodically. Utilize this thread for constructive feedback and as a learning tool for developing cohesive combinations and favorable silhouettes.

 

[JohnMRobie]

I still consider myself as a newcomer to CM. I started years ago before joining the forum and at the end of the day I had to just try and experiment with what works and doesn't. I had to go through countless fits and styles with jeans and trousers, then to shirts and now I am onto ordering my first blazer sometime this month.

I get the, I would die for a body like yours but honestly you don't because it has been a pain to fit into anything clothing, it's been a nightmare but now I know what flatters my body and even now I question if I look good or not with my style choices which is mostly jeans and tailored shirts now.

I’m a believer that a good tailor should be able to make something that fits and is comfortable so it’s less about trying to squeeze into something and comfort.

It’s also not about trying to look like someone but how do you find what works best for you. I suppose my premise I’m throwing out there is that I think there are certain types of tailoring that work better with different body types but defining that seems difficult to me beyond some very big generalizations.

As an example I likely wouldn’t refer a bigger guy with a more rounded shape to a florentine tailor - I find florentine tailoring to be very rounded from the shoulders, through the body. So instead of masking that shape, you’re accentuating it.

Same would go for Spier Mackay on the other end from a bespoke tailor. Their Neapolitan cut is sort of “Italian inspired” but it makes bigger guys look like circles. I won’t post other people’s pictures here to highlight it but IMO it’s not a good look

 

[Texasmade]

Just get a perfect muscular physique and you can get away with more styles.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Just get a perfect muscular physique and you can get away with more styles.

one of these days I’ll be able to get that perfect physique like you.

 

[msimon]

This is a great thread for you. I suggest that you build your wardrobe slowly and methodically. Utilize this thread for constructive feedback and as a learning tool for developing cohesive combinations and favorable silhouettes.

I’m a believer that a good tailor should be able to make something that fits and is comfortable so it’s less about trying to squeeze into something and comfort.

It’s also not about trying to look like someone but how do you find what works best for you. I suppose my premise I’m throwing out there is that I think there are certain types of tailoring that work better with different body types but defining that seems difficult to me beyond some very big generalizations.

As an example I likely wouldn’t refer a bigger guy with a more rounded shape to a florentine tailor - I find florentine tailoring to be very rounded from the shoulders, through the body. So instead of masking that shape, you’re accentuating it.

Same would go for Spier Mackay on the other end from a bespoke tailor. Their Neapolitan cut is sort of “Italian inspired” but it makes bigger guys look like circles. I won’t post other people’s pictures here to highlight it but IMO it’s not a good look

I will upload a pic with what I have now to see if I am on the right track soon. FYI I am very lean at 5'7", my body shape is apparently inverted triangle and I wear shirts that accentuates on the waist but not by to much.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Texasmade]

one of these days I’ll be able to get that perfect physique like you.

In all seriousness I definitely agree with you on the Florentine tailoring on bigger guys. Looking at all the pictures of Qemal and Liverano's work, everyone that looks good in it are fairly skinny. While it looks nice, I know there's no way I would be able to pull it off.

 

[JohnMRobie]

In all seriousness I definitely agree with you on the Florentine tailoring on bigger guys. Looking at all the pictures of Qemal and Liverano's work, everyone that looks good in it are fairly skinny. While it looks nice, I know there's no way I would be able to pull it off.

I think we intrinsically know some of these things by the time we get to the bespoke thread but we rarely explain the why and guys I’ve seen ask the question don’t get much of an answer. But man - The number of threads on “need a suit. What should I buy” followed by a flood of “get a model 3 if you can afford it or spier neo cut” with zero consideration of it strikes me as a miss.

 

[Texasmade]

I think we intrinsically know some of these things by the time we get to the bespoke thread but we rarely explain the why and guys I’ve seen ask the question don’t get much of an answer. But man - The number of threads on “need a suit. What should I buy” followed by a flood of “get a model 3 if you can afford it or spier neo cut” with zero consideration of it strikes me as a miss.

It might be because those work on a fairly wide range of body types so everyone automatically defaults to that. As long as the person isn't extremely muscular or fat, it would wear okay.

 

[msimon]

Here is a real quick photo with my terrible photo skills, I can take more tomorrow in better lighting with full view.

Casual with dark selvedge jeans, which is my usual attire.

 

[Sreezy36]

Here is a real quick photo with my terrible photo skills, I can take more tomorrow in better lighting with full view.

Casual with dark selvedge jeans, which is my usual attire. View attachment 1874022

the best way to receive quality feedback is by posting full body picture. That way can get a full view of your body type.

 

[msimon]

the best way to receive quality feedback is by posting full body picture. That way can get a full view of your body type.

I thought so, will do tomorrow in some nice light.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Alright. At the risk of getting roasted. One of the things I have a hypothesis about is that it’s hard to judge silhouettes without knowing what people look like. A major benefit of tailoring is that it makes us look different, hides things and accentuates others.

I do not possess perfect physique. Chest and waist are similar sizes. Shorter torso and longer legs. Comparatively long arms. Slightly dropped right shoulder. Crappy posture and a slight belly. Shoulders slightly rolled forward and a little wider than my chest indicates they should be which makes RTW tough needing a 42 for shoulders but a 38 for my chest basically. Same goes for trousers where my body is one giant contradiction for a tailor to navigate.

Spoiler: Body

What does this mean for tailoring though and how can that change how I look? I’ve got a fairly varied assortment of tailoring so I’ll try and run through each. I have my own opinions on which silhouettes and styles work best on me but I think it’s interesting to see how much you can change someone’s body and thought I’d provide this context. For context I have selected photos where I’m wearing the identically made shirts from my maker. Same collar, body, sleeve length etc attempting to leave the tailoring as the only variable.

My oldest suit. It’s more of a classic English drape style from 2006. The shoulders are slightly extended and chest is built up and you can see how it gives me more of the inverted triangle shape from the shoulders, through the chest and finishing at the waist. The jacket is on the long side for my current preference and 16+ years on it doesn’t fit as well as it once did. My fault, not the tailors.

A RTW with structure through the shoulder and slight roping and a little cleaner through the chest. You can see my hips and chest at roughly the same width.

A fairly classic Neapolitan suit with very slightly extended shoulders. You can see the unstructured shoulder follow my natural shoulder and provide a roundness as the extension falls.

A Neapolitans take on a more florentine rounded silhouette. You can see the more rounded and more open quarters here with a slightly more full chest providing the appearance of extra waist suppression while doing a slightly more hour glass shape, shoulders to hips. It slightly makes my hips pop a little more.

A Neapolitan jacket with a less extended shoulder that ends more on top of my shoulder and provides a more squared off look and more closed, less rounded quarters along with a cleaner chest. You can see the straighter line from chest to waist to hips.

A very generic American RTW that is fairly unstructured. slightly rounded, fairly unstructured shoulders, relatively square quarters. More narrow lapels. I think it makes me look somewhat more round than I am.

A fairly generic Italian RTW sport coat (my oldest sport coat from the mid-2000’s) with slight shoulder padding and fairly closed quarters. The chest has some structure to it building my chest up slightly. The closed quarters I think slightly narrow my hips.

I particularly like the way neapolitan tailoring makes me look and softens my body but am not as big of a fan of English drape or structure even though it provides more of an inverted triangle.

Hopefully this post can serve as some inspiration for other guys to take the plunge and share what’s worked for them and their bodies so we can sort of put together a reference where people can figure out what works for their body type and what they’re after.

 

[msimon]

Alright. At the risk of getting roasted. One of the things I have a hypothesis about is that it’s hard to judge silhouettes without knowing what people look like. A major benefit of tailoring is that it makes us look different, hides things and accentuates others.

I do not possess perfect physique. Chest and waist are similar sizes. Shorter torso and longer legs. Comparatively long arms. Slightly dropped right shoulder. Crappy posture and a slight belly. Shoulders slightly rolled forward and a little wider than my chest indicates they should be which makes RTW tough needing a 42 for shoulders but a 38 for my chest basically. Same goes for trousers where my body is one giant contradiction for a tailor to navigate.

Spoiler: Body

View attachment 1874016
View attachment 1874017

What does this mean for tailoring though and how can that change how I look? I’ve got a fairly varied assortment of tailoring so I’ll try and run through each. I have my own opinions on which silhouettes and styles work best on me but I think it’s interesting to see how much you can change someone’s body and thought I’d provide this context

My oldest suit. It’s more of a classic English drape style from 2006. The shoulders are slightly extended and chest is built up and you can see how it gives me more of the inverted triangle shape from the shoulders, through the chest and finishing at the waist. The jacket is on the long side for my current preference.
View attachment 1874019

A RTW with structure through the shoulder and slight roping and a little cleaner through the chest. You can see my hips and chest at roughly the same width. View attachment 1874020

A fairly classic Neapolitan suit with very slightly extended shoulders. You can see the unstructured shoulder follow my natural shoulder and provide a roundness as the extension falls. View attachment 1874024
A Neapolitans take on a more florentine rounded silhouette. You can see the more rounded and more open quarters here with a slightly more full chest providing the appearance of extra waist suppression while doing a slightly more hour glass shape, shoulders to hips. It slightly makes my hips pop a little more.
View attachment 1874025
A Neapolitan jacket with a less extended shoulder that ends more on top of my shoulder and provides a more squared off look and more closed, less rounded quarters along with a cleaner chest. You can see the straighter line from chest to waist to hips.
View attachment 1874027
A very generic American RTW that is fairly unstructured. slightly rounded, fairly unstructured shoulders, relatively square quarters. More narrow lapels. View attachment 1874032
A fairly generic Italian RTW sport coat (my oldest sport coat from the mid-2000’s) with slight shoulder padding and fairly closed quarters. The chest has some structure to it building my chest up slightly. The closed quarters I think slightly narrow my hips. View attachment 1874035

I particularly like the way neapolitan tailoring makes me look and softens my body but am not as big of a fan of English drape or structure even though it provides more of an inverted triangle.

Hopefully this post can serve as some inspiration for other guys to take the plunge and share what’s worked for them and their bodies so we can sort of put together a reference where people can figure out what works for their body type and what they’re after.

This is fantastic. It's amazes me how the cut of a jacket can change your silhouette drastically.