Chainstitching thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 15, 2008.

  1. hi-val

    hi-val Senior member

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    I was wondering if chainstitching discussed here is similar to chainstitching in embroidery and it seems they're a little different, at least with machines involved. If you're curious about how it works, check out this site with fancy animations: http://home.howstuffworks.com/sewing-machine1.htm
     
  2. Sigmatic

    Sigmatic Senior member

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    I got my IH's done at Jaime's last year when I lived in the Bay Area. Don't remember how much it cost.

    4340 Redwood Hwy
    San Rafael, CA 94903
    (415) 492-1325

    If you look him up on yelp, there's a review posted by a guy who I think might be Ayn from SuFu.


    how good was the work?

    oh man, chainstitching a mile from my office[​IMG]
     
  3. farfisa23

    farfisa23 Senior member

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    Can someone post pics on how chainstitching looks different than a regular stitched hem?
     
  4. worn down

    worn down Active Member

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    how good was the work?

    oh man, chainstitching a mile from my office[​IMG]


    I think he did a solid job. Perhaps you could ask to see a sample of his work if you decide to drop by.
     
  5. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I really don't see why this should be so rare. There seem to be quite a few machines that should be capable of doing single needle chainstitch out there. http://www.sewingmachinery.com/used/usc-specials.html

    Anyway, I had my Belstaff boots fixed up by the shoe guy in University Village (he's now near the key booth in his own building) and he works using an old treadle (foot operated) Singer that appears to have only one thread going in. I can't look in there to see the stitching (he put a shifter pad on the left toe) but I'd guess it's chainstitched. His machine looks a lot like this one from the site above, only with 1 needle instead of 12:

    [​IMG]

    Anyway, he might think you're nuts for asking, but you could bring a scrap of fabric and have him stitch it and see if it is chainstitch. His English isn't so good so just asking probably wouldn't get you anywhere. He's reasonable cheap too, $10 I think for the shifter pad thing including a scrap of leather from his stash. You would have to iron the crease of the jeans yourself though, since he doesn't have that stuff.
     
  6. nauqneyugn

    nauqneyugn Member

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    The asian shoe guy at UVillage is crazy. When I went in to buy some shoe cream, he was covered with shoe polish or something. :p

    Overall nice guy though.
     
  7. idlewild

    idlewild Senior member

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    Does chainstitching really make that much of a difference? I mean seriously its the hem of your jeans.
     
  8. jet

    jet Persian Bro

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    The stitch is responsible for the roping effect apparently so if you want your jeans to look like slacks then I suppose it's no big deal.
     
  9. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I don't see how that can be true considering how many mass market jeans have no chainstitched hem, yet show roping. Unless you're talking about some other kind of magic roping than I'm thinking of. Roping AFAIK is just caused by the denim shrinking around the seam - same as on the side seams, felled seams, and everywhere else there's a seam.
     
  10. jet

    jet Persian Bro

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    Not sure that's why I said apparently, I knew some forum cop would try and call me out on it. Isn't there a little slack in the links which tightens or some shit after washing inducing the roping or am I just high as fuck.
     
  11. mimesis

    mimesis Well-Known Member

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    A quick look in the Demin terminology thread produced no listing for 'roping' wtf is it? Self edge: "Also, with a chainstitch your hem will form a beautiful roping effect after time due to the opposite pull of denim during washing/shrinking. Wabi-Sabi Indeed." is it this? [​IMG]
     
  12. HEWSINATOR

    HEWSINATOR Senior member

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    My parents got rid of a singer looking like the one above a while ago (less the billion looking needles). I seem to recall reading somewhere that there is chainstiching like we are after and chainstitching like those old machines did- a different stitch all together. I certainly can be wrong though. I seem to be rambling, but I think the following do a chainstitch but a different one than we are after...?

    It was looked like these, but was pedal powered:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Singer-F...QQcmdZViewItem
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-1930s-Si...ayphotohosting
     
  13. HEWSINATOR

    HEWSINATOR Senior member

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    is it this?

    Yes.
     
  14. kiya

    kiya Brand Representative Affiliate Vendor

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    Hello all..
    Welcome to Denim Mythbusters volume 2.

    There's definitely some confusion to be had.. and let me try and clear some things up.
    Two things lead to a roping effect.
    1. A chainstitched hem
    2. Selvedge denim

    You only need one to achieve a roping effect, unsanforized selvedge denim will produce the strongest roping effect, especially if it's been chainstitched.
    Selvedge denim, once washed, will pull in opposite directions due to the single weft thread which "tightens" as it shrinks in one direction. Broken twill denim was invented by Lee seventy years ago to combat this roping (and leg twist) that we love so much. Broken twill denim shows no leg twist OR roping, unless it was chainstitched.
    Now on to the chainstitching.. there are multiple ways to chainstitch a hem. The true original way would be use a Union Special machine WITH the hemming attachment which pulls the denim in opposite directions as it pulls it through the machine. If the jeans are hemmed with a machine using this special attachment, and your jeans are selvedge, chances are you'll have the most intense roping effect possible on your jeans.
     
  15. xchen

    xchen Senior member

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    I was looking at my RRLs which are chainstitched today closely, and will say that the stitch litterally looks like chainlinks up close. RRLs have a lot in common with some of the other repro companies so a lot of the detailing is similar, such as hidden rivets and chainstitched hems.
     

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