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Causal/Fun Outfits with Structured Shoulders?

jreuter

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Mar 10, 2020
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I've seen it repeatedly suggested over the years that soft Italian tailoring lends itself to more causal, cool outfits while English tailoring - with its structured shoulders - is more formal. Maybe there's some truth to that, but I think there can also be a rock n' roll swagger to structured shoulders that can make for great fun outfits that aren't particularly formal or stuffy.

The best examples I've seen are vintage Tommy Nutter and some of the ongoing work from Edward Sexton and Chittleborough & Morgan.

Anyhow, I thought I'd create this thread to share examples of and talk about just how versatile (or not) tailoring with structured shoulder can be. Here are a few particularly wild examples to get us started:

house-of-nutter-press-3750x.jpg

Ringo-Starr-Holland-Sherry-Tommy-Nutter-publicité.jpg

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Mr-And-Mr-and-Mrs-Mick-Ja-001.jpg
 

mak1277

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I'm on board for this discussion to hopefully learn a few things. My body type is much better suited for coats with structure.
 

corpseposeur

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I think seasonality can have some impact as well. I recently ordered the single breasted version of this jacket from the same tailor. I could wear it with a shirt and tie, but more likely I will wear it with a roll neck or a merino sweater with a scarf. I think this can certainly look casual and but structured in fall and winter months.

However the thought of heavy structure and padding in warmer months just feels uncomfortable to me so I would lean towards a softer drape cut for spring and summer.

I think the Nutter examples, are a bit extreme. The super structured cut, giant 70s peak lapels, plus bold patterns feel very dated and costumey because it's a super formal cut with bold pattern. Just because Ringo Starr or Mick Jagger have this look going on in the 1970s, I doubt most people can swing that sucessfully.

Screen Shot 2022-01-05 at 3.03.08 AM.png
 

'patanoster

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Although they might be a bit too extreme for some on this forum, I am quite taken by Husbands Paris these days, who put in a bit of classic English structure to their jackets. Again, probably a style best worn by the young, or at least the slender… here is their founder looking rather cool.
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