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Bespoke jacket: What would be your versatile "oneJacket" for all occasions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Reevolving, Jan 11, 2011.

  1. Reevolving

    Reevolving Senior member

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    If you could only get 1 jacket MTM, what would be your "oneJacket" that could work in most occasions? Casual, social, work, etc. I think Navy solid is too generic. Maybe one detail to add SOME flair, like a subtle check, or purple pinstripe, etc. Worsted wool as its too suit/formal looking.
    Well, I think you have a few options. First, I would stay away from any stripe or check. It would automatically make the jacket not work with anything but a solid pant. Secondly, for navy, I would do a heavy hopsack weave. Hopsack is porous enough to breathe when its warmer out, but ina heavy weight also wearable in colder temps (I'm wearing my Navy hopsack today, and its freezing!). But Navy sometimes can come across as dressy, too dressy in some circles. If this is what you decide, brown horn buttons should be the way to go. What I think would be your ideal choice however would be a lighter weight (think 10-11 oz) tweed in one of the following colors - brown, blue or grey. You could do either a donegal or a subtle herringbone, of which I think a donegal would be more versatile. Donegal could be worn with any pattern or color, especially if there are lots of different specks of color in it, as there are in many donegals. The weight would make it ideal for year round use, and honestly the only thing it would NOT work with MAY be very dressy trousers. You could do this with khaki, wool, jeans, checks, plaids and could use many shirt tie combos as well. Hope that helps, and good luck.
    As usual, solid advice from NYR. Your thoughts?
     
  2. Superfluous

    Superfluous Senior member

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    I've noticed that I keep buying black sport coats. They seem pretty easy for me to match shirts with... pink, purple, gold, light blue, white.
     
  3. Rugger

    Rugger Senior member

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    Probably some sort of micro nailhead or micro hounds dark navy
     
  4. Twotone

    Twotone Senior member

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    +1 -- my thoughts exactly. I would also add subtle navy herringbone or windowpane (with very faint lines).

    Probably some sort of micro nailhead or micro hounds dark navy
     
  5. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I love donegal, but it would look odd in summer, unless you live somewhere that's perpetually snowy. That's also the trouble with dark brown.

    The right answer is really "blazer," but if you don't want that, I'm going to go very non-SF and suggest "solid light gray" in a twill or other cloth that doesn't look like a suit. It's almost as versatile as navy, the texture in the cloth adds interest, and the solid color will make it look dressier to most folks than something with a pattern.
     
  6. srivats

    srivats Senior member

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    The obvious answer is a navy blazer. You should ideally have it in a nice 9-10 oz fabric with brown MOP buttons. You can detail it with 2 patch pockets or even 3 if you want it very casual.

    If you don't want a navy blazer or a grey jacket, my choice would be a tan camelhair jacket like the one Orgetorix and Nii posted recently -- very versatile and can be dressed up or down. It looks great with a pair of grey slacks and it would also look nice with the right jeans. Wear it with a regular tie, bowtie or go tieless per the occasion, but make sure that the jacket you buy fits you really well. Orgetorix's jacket is a good example of fit.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
     
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Navy Crispaire fresco, 2 patch + welt pocket. I've had it for years and works for most situations.
     
  8. RSS

    RSS Senior member

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    Sorry fellows ... I'm just not into the OneConcept.
     
  9. koolhistorian

    koolhistorian Senior member

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    Navy blazer - one for winter (flannel, cashmere) and one for summer - fresco, mohair, wool - linnen!
     
  10. landshark

    landshark Senior member

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    Navy sport coat > navy blazer.
     
  11. chasingred

    chasingred Senior member

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    I think the navy blazer is a bit overrated to be honest. I find that I rarely wear mine unless I'm wearing grey pants, and even then I often reach for a dark brown SC for fear that I'll look like a security guard in grey pants and a navy blazer.
     
  12. cchen

    cchen Senior member

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    What I think would be your ideal choice however would be a lighter weight (think 10-11 oz) tweed in one of the following colors - brown, blue or grey. You could do either a donegal or a subtle herringbone, of which I think a donegal would be more versatile.

    Probably some sort of micro nailhead or micro hounds dark navy

    "solid light gray" in a twill or other cloth that doesn't look like a suit.

    any specific fabric books/brand recommendations on the above? I was just thinking that i need to have a very versatile sport coat made up
     
  13. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    I could easily do with only 2 SCs

    a. navy SC
    b. light weight tweed SC in herringbone (black and white or brown and cream).
     
  14. hermes man

    hermes man Senior member

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    this Gucci jacket from 2010 F/W

    [​IMG]
     
  15. MBreinin

    MBreinin Senior member

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    A navy wool cashmere blend in an all season fabric. 2 button, or 2-3 roll, double vented.

    Mike
     
  16. ChicagoMediaMan

    ChicagoMediaMan Senior member

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    The right answer is really "blazer," but if you don't want that, I'm going to go very non-SF and suggest "solid light gray" in a twill or other cloth that doesn't look like a suit. It's almost as versatile as navy, the texture in the cloth adds interest, and the solid color will make it look dressier to most folks than something with a pattern.

    This
     
  17. niidawg3

    niidawg3 Senior member

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    Sorry fellows ... I'm just not into the OneConcept.

    This.
     
  18. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    any specific fabric books/brand recommendations on the above? I was just thinking that i need to have a very versatile sport coat made up

    I've been very happy with a navy blazersuit in Smith's Finmeresco. It's a little heavier and stretchier than H&S Crispaire.
     
  19. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Navy Crispaire fresco, 2 patch + welt pocket. I've had it for years and works for most situations.

    Pics?
     
  20. TC (Houston)

    TC (Houston) Senior member

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    Sorry fellows ... I'm just not into the OneConcept.
    It has much more relevance when one's current jacket count is zero.
     

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