Bespoke in Los Angeles

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Very sad to learn of the news, but his son Peter has taken over and I'm having him make me a suit now with the first basted fitting taking place in about two weeks. I'll report back on the results, fingers crossed.

I'll remember Tam for whenever I asked him if he could do this or that - the simple and short answer was always the same "I can do anything."

I'm looking forward to hearing about your experience. Peter has helped me with some pretty complicated alterations but I am yet to commission a suit or jacket.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Refloating this thread to add my $0.02 for High Society. I had a suit made there last fall at the recommendation of @ValidusLA . I had heard of them years ago when I lived nearby, but was concerned about any drop in quality now that the man behind their whole...everything...was no longer. I found that his son David indeed is quite passionate about clothes and style and is a designer by trade, but leans very heavily towards the SWD side, and in designing actual costumes (as opposed to the cosplay we do). He's a nice enough guy to chat about clothes with but to be frank doesn't know that much about CM.

The trick is to talk to Eric, who knows tons (and is probably on this forum?). He's only in on Saturdays so go at that time, and from there, if you can give him even vaguest of descriptions of what you're looking for, he will be able to explain it to Mr. Han. I pretty much told him I'd just like a happy medium with everything and to keep all the details CM-friendly, and he took care of the rest. I now have a great three-piece double breasted (yes 3pc DB because why the hell not) suit, or 4 if you include the extra pants. Everything very much SF-approved, without looking like a Fellowes drawing, and it's easily my favorite suit out of a rotation of 20 or so, ranging from cheapo beater RTWs to RLPL. Mr. Han was also able to lend an eye to some of the technicalities, such as the exact lapel length and button stance, as a vest with DB is kind of unusual and he wanted to balance comfort and style with the proportions of how the vest would look with the jacket buttoned and with it unbuttoned.

Price is very reasonable for a bespoke suit made in Los Angeles even if they aren't the absurdly low #s that the senior Lim was known for. I'd dare say that this is one of those things where the lower prices might have been detrimental to business, because humans are not reasonable actors: too cheap and they start wondering if they're being scammed, or if corners are being cut at this low-rent joint that looks nothing like the front room of Huntsman. Make it a bit more expensive and suddenly they're getting a deal for a suit made in Beverly Hills! Our stupid lizard brains are weird.

Anyway, I ramble. TLDR: I got a great deal for a bespoke suit that I love, and David, Eric, Mr. Han and the hodgepodge of hipster types working there are good people. Go talk to them if you're in the area and want something nice made.

 

[Valfunde]

For both High Society and Tam Tailor, how are the fabric offerings? Asking because I'm looking specifically for some mohair and other "fun-ish" fabrics and I'm admittedly lazy to search and bring my own bolt.

 

[ValidusLA]

Refloating this thread to add my $0.02 for High Society. I had a suit made there last fall at the recommendation of @ValidusLA . I had heard of them years ago when I lived nearby, but was concerned about any drop in quality now that the man behind their whole...everything...was no longer. I found that his son David indeed is quite passionate about clothes and style and is a designer by trade, but leans very heavily towards the SWD side, and in designing actual costumes (as opposed to the cosplay we do). He's a nice enough guy to chat about clothes with but to be frank doesn't know that much about CM.

The trick is to talk to Eric, who knows tons (and is probably on this forum?). He's only in on Saturdays so go at that time, and from there, if you can give him even vaguest of descriptions of what you're looking for, he will be able to explain it to Mr. Han. I pretty much told him I'd just like a happy medium with everything and to keep all the details CM-friendly, and he took care of the rest. I now have a great three-piece double breasted (yes 3pc DB because why the hell not) suit, or 4 if you include the extra pants. Everything very much SF-approved, without looking like a Fellowes drawing, and it's easily my favorite suit out of a rotation of 20 or so, ranging from cheapo beater RTWs to RLPL. Mr. Han was also able to lend an eye to some of the technicalities, such as the exact lapel length and button stance, as a vest with DB is kind of unusual and he wanted to balance comfort and style with the proportions of how the vest would look with the jacket buttoned and with it unbuttoned.

Price is very reasonable for a bespoke suit made in Los Angeles even if they aren't the absurdly low #s that the senior Lim was known for. I'd dare say that this is one of those things where the lower prices might have been detrimental to business, because humans are not reasonable actors: too cheap and they start wondering if they're being scammed, or if corners are being cut at this low-rent joint that looks nothing like the front room of Huntsman. Make it a bit more expensive and suddenly they're getting a deal for a suit made in Beverly Hills! Our stupid lizard brains are weird.

Anyway, I ramble. TLDR: I got a great deal for a bespoke suit that I love, and David, Eric, Mr. Han and the hodgepodge of hipster types working there are good people. Go talk to them if you're in the area and want something nice made.

Really glad it worked out for you. Agree with pretty much everything you said.

For both High Society and Tam Tailor, how are the fabric offerings? Asking because I'm looking specifically for some mohair and other "fun-ish" fabrics and I'm admittedly lazy to search and bring my own bolt.

HS has some mohair and mohair blends. They just did a suit for my buddy in a beautiful burgundy mohair. I was pretty skeptical about that when I heard about it, but when I saw it in person it was lovely.

HS has H+S, HFW, LP, most of the big names. I've actually brought them the Fox and Cacciopolli books in the last 18 months or so, and they now carry both. The only big name they aren't doing really is Harrisons.

If you want something specific recommend going Saturday and speaking to Eric. He knows the fabric books the best.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

For both High Society and Tam Tailor, how are the fabric offerings? Asking because I'm looking specifically for some mohair and other "fun-ish" fabrics and I'm admittedly lazy to search and bring my own bolt.

I was just at Tam Tailor today and took a quick look at the fabrics for you. Loro Piana seems to be dominant but there was a Debonair book that specifically calls out mohair as well as some books for Dormeuil, Gallant, Luxor, Scabal and a couple of others. You should give Peter a call and ask what he has.

Please excuse the poor image quality. These are screen captures from a quick video that I took.

 

[Valfunde]

I was just at Tam Tailor today and took a quick look at the fabrics for you. Loro Piana seems to be dominant but there was a Debonair book that specifically calls out mohair as well as some books for Dormeuil, Gallant, Luxor, Scabal and a couple of others. You should give Peter a call and ask what he has.

Please excuse the poor image quality. These are screen captures from a quick video that I took.

View attachment 1760036
View attachment 1760037
View attachment 1760038

That's...actually very comprehensive. Truth be told, I thought Tam Tailor, without knowing much about them, were gonna be a bespoke service in so far they cut a suit to your measurements and that's it.

Looks very much legit.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

That's...actually very comprehensive. Truth be told, I thought Tam Tailor, without knowing much about them, were gonna be a bespoke service in so far they cut a suit to your measurements and that's it.

Looks very much legit.

I have not commissioned a bespoke suit from Tam Tailor but I'm planning on ordering a jacket this Spring. I know that there are strong opinions about what constitutes actual "bespoke" versus some kind of made-to-measure and bespoke hybrid but what Tam Tailor does seems to go far beyond the typical custom M2M suiting programs. Peter walked me through their process which he said involves a basted fitting before the garment is made. He did say that they create a pattern specifically for each client, different from made-to-measure services that adjust a pre-existing pattern to meet the measurements of a client. My gut tells me his program is similar to the "bespoke" basted fitting services that are offered by other companies like Divij but I have to assume it's far from what you'd find on Saville Row. I'll be happy to update this thread with my experience when I go through the process.

 

[Valfunde]

I probably will do both High Society and Tam Tailor and report my experience back here as well. Plan for now is to do 2 American "bespoke" and 2 British (Steed and Steven Hitchcock). Nothing anytime soon since I'm still looking and browsing but definitely this year.

 

[lexxdeleon]

There's a good amount of books to browse through, but I'm not sure how many of those are actually current and have a healthy amount of fabrics actually in stock. I was browsing a few where many were marked OOS and must've been previous seasons/collections.

When I asked Peter for a medium gray suiting fabric, he only presented about 4-6 options with the majority of those being Loro Piana which was what he was nudging me towards. I was surprised there weren't more basics I could browse.

I was just at Tam Tailor today and took a quick look at the fabrics for you. Loro Piana seems to be dominant but there was a Debonair book that specifically calls out mohair as well as some books for Dormeuil, Gallant, Luxor, Scabal and a couple of others. You should give Peter a call and ask what he has.

Please excuse the poor image quality. These are screen captures from a quick video that I took.

View attachment 1760036
View attachment 1760037
View attachment 1760038

 

[lexxdeleon]

Alright guys, so here's a few photos from my first basted fitting with Peter at Tam Tailor. As a side note, I was previously an MTM specialist with Suitsupply - so I know a little about fit.

The good news is the make and process really is bespoke and you can see much of the handwork on the innards of the basted jacket. I don't think there's a better value for true bespoke out there, but there are caveats.

Now for the other news...there have been many details missed/overlooked.

The overall design of the jacket is pretty far off from the drawings and photos shown to them.
- gorge height is far too high
- lapel width and overall placement is far off from where I had asked it to be, they didn't follow the drawings I had provided
- the jetted pockets were placed SUPER high, it's near my elbow and needed to be around 6cm lower

This isn't my first venture into bespoke, so I knew that there was a relatively high risk that the design cues I was looking for wouldn't come out perfect. But I thought it would be closer than what the initial result was for the jacket. It's REALLY tough asking a tailor to do a "non-house" cut/design. I know it's best to select a shop where their house cut matches your aesthetics, but it's really slim pickins here in SoCal. It's something to keep in mind and curb expectations for at least the first or first few commissions.

At this point, I'm glad I had ordered extra fabric and had them remake the two front panels. I supplied my own fabric which Peter originally told me I needed 4 yards - but I know for my size only about 3.25 yards is required - when I brought the fabric in Peter told me I brought too much lol.

On a better note, they were able to execute the trouser design details much closer to what I was looking for. I don't have photos at the moment but they have an extended waist band closure with a single "belt" loop, thicker waist band height and side adjusters placed closer the hip with a more unique design/shape.

However, you're suppose to pull the fabric tab towards the seat for tightening and they made it reverse which is weird - so no I'm pulling the adjuster fabric forward towards the crotch to tighten...oh well. I had also asked for a deep single pleat, but the pleat isn't very deep at all.

Regarding fit, the first basting fitting of the jacket was just okay, but that's why it's basted.

- jacket length too short, didn't cover my seat - easy fix (seems Peter prefers a shorter jacket length as he was surprised I wanted it longer)
- sleeve length (easy fix)
- sleeve pitch needed adjustment
- shoulder was too wide, but Peter said they start wide and take in after the first fitting
- back drape was pretty messy, I don't think they accounted for my very sloping shoulders

The trousers were easy since I had them copy the fit of some trousers that Peter's father made for me. These came out well, the waist just a touch big and could improve the drape on the back of the leg line just slightly.

To be continued...I'll post more photos of the jacket on me along with the 2nd fitting photos. I just wanted to highlighted the make of the basted jacket and the detailed design struggles so far.

 

[Valfunde]

Alright guys, so here's a few photos from my first basted fitting with Peter at Tam Tailor. As a side note, I was previously an MTM specialist with Suitsupply - so I know a little about fit.

The good news is the make and process really is bespoke and you can see much of the handwork on the innards of the basted jacket. I don't think there's a better value for true bespoke out there, but there are caveats.

Now for the other news...there have been many details missed/overlooked.

The overall design of the jacket is pretty far off from the drawings and photos shown to them.
- gorge height is far too high
- lapel width and overall placement is far off from where I had asked it to be, they didn't follow the drawings I had provided
- the jetted pockets were placed SUPER high, it's near my elbow and needed to be around 6cm lower

This isn't my first venture into bespoke, so I knew that there was a relatively high risk that the design cues I was looking for wouldn't come out perfect. But I thought it would be closer than what the initial result was for the jacket. It's REALLY tough asking a tailor to do a "non-house" cut/design. I know it's best to select a shop where their house cut matches your aesthetics, but it's really slim pickins here in SoCal. It's something to keep in mind and curb expectations for at least the first or first few commissions.

At this point, I'm glad I had ordered extra fabric and had them remake the two front panels. I supplied my own fabric which Peter originally told me I needed 4 yards - but I know for my size only about 3.25 yards is required - when I brought the fabric in Peter told me I brought too much lol.

On a better note, they were able to execute the trouser design details much closer to what I was looking for. I don't have photos at the moment but they have an extended waist band closure with a single "belt" loop, thicker waist band height and side adjusters placed closer the hip with a more unique design/shape.

However, you're suppose to pull the fabric tab towards the seat for tightening and they made it reverse which is weird - so no I'm pulling the adjuster fabric forward towards the crotch to tighten...oh well. I had also asked for a deep single pleat, but the pleat isn't very deep at all.

Regarding fit, the first basting fitting of the jacket was just okay, but that's why it's basted.

- jacket length too short, didn't cover my seat - easy fix (seems Peter prefers a shorter jacket length as he was surprised I wanted it longer)
- sleeve length (easy fix)
- sleeve pitch needed adjustment
- shoulder was too wide, but Peter said they start wide and take in after the first fitting
- back drape was pretty messy, I don't think they accounted for my very sloping shoulders

The trousers were easy since I had them copy the fit of some trousers that Peter's father made for me. These came out well, the waist just a touch big and could improve the drape on the back of the leg line just slightly.

To be continued...I'll post more photos of the jacket on me along with the 2nd fitting photos. I just wanted to highlighted the make of the basted jacket and the detailed design struggles so far.

Ah, that was kinda my fear when I saw the yelp photos for some of the suits: length and sleeve length looked off. Also I'm very much interested in how this turns out as I was also going for a double breasted suit haha.

Hope things turn for the best in the end.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Really glad it worked out for you. Agree with pretty much everything you said.

Yuuuup! I forgot to mention above, but it probably went without saying, but this thing is somehow very structured yet comfortable enough that I can take a nap in it. Mr. Han is a wizard at hiding all the ease around the shoulders and chest. Armholes, collar, and shoulders that even a hardcore guy like Frank Shattuck would approve of (probably...maybe?).

HS has some mohair and mohair blends. They just did a suit for my buddy in a beautiful burgundy mohair. I was pretty skeptical about that when I heard about it, but when I saw it in person it was lovely.

HS has H+S, HFW, LP, most of the big names. I've actually brought them the Fox and Cacciopolli books in the last 18 months or so, and they now carry both. The only big name they aren't doing really is Harrisons.

If you want something specific recommend going Saturday and speaking to Eric. He knows the fabric books the best.

I brought my own fabric for this one, but for my next project will probably just trust Eric / David to do the legwork for me. Do you know anything about the house fabrics that they have in stock? There was a big wall of them at the K-town location and I assume David still has them all lying around somewhere in the back of the new place. I don't care about having the label to some high end mill on the inside of my jacket, so If there's anything noteworthy in their stock stuff that I could get a deal on, I'd be all for it.

 

[ValidusLA]

Yuuuup! I forgot to mention above, but it probably went without saying, but this thing is somehow very structured yet comfortable enough that I can take a nap in it. Mr. Han is a wizard at hiding all the ease around the shoulders and chest. Armholes, collar, and shoulders that even a hardcore guy like Frank Shattuck would approve of (probably...maybe?).



I brought my own fabric for this one, but for my next project will probably just trust Eric / David to do the legwork for me. Do you know anything about the house fabrics that they have in stock? There was a big wall of them at the K-town location and I assume David still has them all lying around somewhere in the back of the new place. I don't care about having the label to some high end mill on the inside of my jacket, so If there's anything noteworthy in their stock stuff that I could get a deal on, I'd be all for it.

I have some stuff made from house fabric over the years. Pretty good stuff generally. Pre-covid they were shopping at places like Tip Top and pulling in bolts. Not 100% where its coming from now.

 

[ValidusLA]

If you have the chance, that would be great to clarify with David whenever you talk to him next. There isn't a lot of info for LA bespoke tailors so I'm sure some people will search later on and find this thread helpful.

Jacket's being made in shop and shirts/pants off site in LA makes sense to me. I've handled some trousers from the off site shop (only about 2 miles away) and the quality looks to be real good, some hand-sewn details as well though that was the brand's specification.

100% agree that the prices are still very reasonable everything considered.

Forgot to follow up.

Shirts and pants are offsite. They only have 1 trouser maker now, and he is a replacement for a longer serving member of their team who has retired. I just picked up a pair of Holland and Sherry trousers on Saturday, and the pleats are fantastic. I think I like the new guy better.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Next week, I will start the process with Peter at Tam Tailor for a classic navy hopsack two button suit with notch lapels. I'll put up a post or two as it moves along. Hopefully that'll be helpful to anyone who stumbles on this thread.