Bespoke from Singapore (pic heavy!)

[apropos]

One thing I am not sure I fully understand is how the jacket appears to be moderately suppressed from the front, but much more severely suppressed from the back.

 

[kolecho]

Originally Posted by hymo

I would prefer the shoulders more extended. That way, you can have the same waisted silhouette without the waist being so constricting.

+1. I also think the hip circumference is a tad small, contributing to the flared hips and vents that gape open.

 

[hymo]

Originally Posted by apropos

One thing I am not sure I fully understand is how the jacket appears to be moderately suppressed from the front, but much more severely suppressed from the back.

Four seams define the waist:

1. Center back
2. Rear underarm panel
3. Front underarm panel
4. Front dart

The suppression must be properly (does not mean equally) shared by these seams. Here, the center back and rear underarm seams did too much work.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by gshen

Voxy - do you mind elaborating some? I looked and looked and it seems to be suppressed around my natural waist. Too much maybe, but too high?

I don't want to over-interpret the photograph of the back, but this is an example where a focus on specific part of the the jacket (in this case, how the waist is suppressed) should give way to considerations of overall harmony and balance in the proportions. My suggestion, for what it's worth, would be to dial back the suppression a bit on your next number and then see if you still like it. Also, see if the back and double vents can be cut so that the vents are a bit closer together, and definitely make sure that they hang straight and don't kick out.

Otherwise, it's pretty nice.


- B

 

[academe]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I don't want to over-interpret the photograph of the back, but this is an example where a focus on specific part of the the jacket (in this case, how the waist is suppressed) should give way to considerations of overall harmony and balance in the proportions. My suggestion, for what it's worth, would be to dial back the suppression a bit on your next number and then see if you still like it. Also, see if the back and double vents can be cut so that the vents are a bit closer together, and definitely make sure that they hang straight and don't kick out. Otherwise, it's pretty nice. - B
I also wonder how much of the additional "flare" in the skirt may be accentuated by the patterning of the fabric? For some of gshen's other numbers, made-up in plainer fabrics, the "flare" doesn't seem quite as pronounced... I do think it's also worth wearing a garment for a while before adjusting it any further, as it probably will take a while to settle... If you're comfortable in it and happy with it, whatever criticisms others' may offer is academic...

 

[DizzyBella]

Very nice!

 

[suited&booted]

The real reason for the flare is G's been fattening up his ass during the varsity term break. I was at our MBT during several of the fitting & basting sessions and it looked fine and there was no flare. Sushi & whiskey sessions with PG and the Singapore SF Slingers, Rake magazine drinky poos for Ambrosi and Tiger beer chugging at our MBT just piles on the assage.

To compound the problem, G has a nice round ass (even weirder for a *********** so says the MBT) and he has been slacking with the physical regime. Obviously his **** sartorial obsessions has relegated his inter-varsity Thai kick-boxing bouts down the list and we in SF are rewarded with his 'ass flares'.

Note: If 'ass flares' has not been coined before in SF, I would like to claim originator of this phrase. I missed out on 'open quarters'.

BTW, nice tie G. WTF is the fabric? Bringing on the steez in Singapore. When you be pimping that to me. Edmorel has broken my heart by running out of bowties. Need to look cripsy for my new gig.

 

[mmkn]

The lower-half vertical lines of the panes on the back shot seem plumb enough.

Those on the front skirt flare out just a bit.

Another example of opening the quarters by waist suppression rather than cut, Ã la Whnay's A&S?

- M

 

[gshen]

Originally Posted by Parker

G... I think the new jacket looks pretty good, but it seems a little too tight all around. Letting the waist out a bit might help the vent lay flat. Also, you might want to check the collar height. Looks like it's sinking a bit low. The "hourglass" shape is not everyone's cuppa but I think it kinda goes with the uno-button. Doc Holliday might like it.

Nice details btw. Lapels and pockets are very nice. The kimono piping is swizzle.

Thanks Parker. I've gradually had the cut loosened over my commissions and actually thought i'd hit a sweet spot with this one.. I'll have to wear it for some time and decide if I want to go looser. I think it may be my shirt collar which I've asked for a 1.75" band to suit my long-ish neck. Either way, thanks for pointing it out - probably will ask to raise the jacket collar.

Glad you like the piping!

Originally Posted by hymo

I would prefer the shoulders more extended. That way, you can have the same waisted silhouette without the waist being so constricting.

I really, really dislike extended shoulders now, but may warm up to them later. who knows?

Originally Posted by Confucius

Nice use of the vintage kimono silk(?)...looks like the red fan fabric!

Overall fits nice but the first thing I also noticed was the high suppression that Vox mentioned.

Will be moving to Singapore next year so I think I'm going to give these guys a try!

Thanks! Yup - it's the red fans fabric. The tailor bitched alot about having to join pieces and pieces of it together on the bias, since the fabric was only 14" wide. Doubt they will agree to do this again in future

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I don't want to over-interpret the photograph of the back, but this is an example where a focus on specific part of the the jacket (in this case, how the waist is suppressed) should give way to considerations of overall harmony and balance in the proportions. My suggestion, for what it's worth, would be to dial back the suppression a bit on your next number and then see if you still like it. Also, see if the back and double vents can be cut so that the vents are a bit closer together, and definitely make sure that they hang straight and don't kick out.

Otherwise, it's pretty nice.


- B

Thanks Vox. Makes sense now - I should make it a point to take pictures at the fittings, since there is only 1 mirror which makes it hard to visualize how the back looks. Had I seen the picture at the fitting stages, I probably would have asked for less suppression. I'll try out your advice on the vents for the next commission and report back.

Originally Posted by academe

I also wonder how much of the additional "flare" in the skirt may be accentuated by the patterning of the fabric? For some of gshen's other numbers, made-up in plainer fabrics, the "flare" doesn't seem quite as pronounced... I do think it's also worth wearing a garment for a while before adjusting it any further, as it probably will take a while to settle... If you're comfortable in it and happy with it, whatever criticisms others' may offer is academic...

Thanks Y. I am comfortable and happy with the jacket for sure, but I also acknowledge there is a fair bit of room for improvement. Nitpicking in this manner is really helpful for both me and my tailor.

Originally Posted by suited&booted

The real reason for the flare is G's been fattening up his ass during the varsity term break. I was at our MBT during several of the fitting & basting sessions and it looked fine and there was no flare. Sushi & whiskey sessions with PG and the Singapore SF Slingers, Rake magazine drinky poos for Ambrosi and Tiger beer chugging at our MBT just piles on the assage.

To compound the problem, G has a nice round ass (even weirder for a *********** so says the MBT) and he has been slacking with the physical regime. Obviously his **** sartorial obsessions has relegated his inter-varsity Thai kick-boxing bouts down the list and we in SF are rewarded with his 'ass flares'.

Note: If 'ass flares' has not been coined before in SF, I would like to claim originator of this phrase. I missed out on 'open quarters'.

BTW, nice tie G. WTF is the fabric? Bringing on the steez in Singapore. When you be pimping that to me. Edmorel has broken my heart by running out of bowties. Need to look cripsy for my new gig.

To make things worse, I was recently told that one ass is bigger than the other, so the vents sit weird sometimes. FML.

MBTM (mystery bespoke tie maker) will be revealed in due course!

Originally Posted by mmkn

The lower-half vertical lines of the panes on the back shot seem plumb enough.




Those on the front skirt flare out just a bit.




Another example of opening the quarters by waist suppression rather than cut, Ã la Whnay's A&S?

[]http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b328/mafoofan/titc/andersonsheppard/as11s.jpg[]

- M


The flare on mine is so subtle compared to the A&S version that I doubt this comparison makes sense. Is the A&S technique 'correct' though?

 

[hymo]

Gshen, is this the jacket that uses RJW's superlight canvas? Did it turn out as soft as PG's jackets?

 

[gshen]

Yeah it is. It's just a wee bit lighter and springier than their usual stuff though. Not sure if it's worth the hassle or $$ to order it in future.

We opened up the PL jacket and it was a super light layer of linen in there. The PL jacket feels limper, less springy.. I think i prefer the light canvas.

 

[hymo]

Originally Posted by gshen

Yeah it is. It's just a wee bit lighter and springier than their usual stuff though. Not sure if it's worth the hassle or $$ to order it in future.

We opened up the PL jacket and it was a super light layer of linen in there. The PL jacket feels limper, less springy.. I think i prefer the light canvas.

Just the info I need. I heard about a Poole that also had a linen canvas + a wisp of shoulder padding and am very intrigued by the possibility. My next suit will be of light weight fabric, tighter overall, and soft!

 

[gshen]

Kewl - Ah Loke does soft tailoring..looking forward to pics.

 

[jefferyd]

Originally Posted by gshen

Is the A&S technique 'correct' though?

This is one of those very rare occasions where I will be categorical in saying NO.

 

[Maccimus]

I know Jeffery will show up.