Anyone prefer a shorter suit jacket?

[DocHolliday]

Originally Posted by holymadness

How long it will continue to be remains to be seen. In the long term, I'd advise against it.

Yup. This fad is passing, and fast. Once it's trickled down to Banana Republic and the like, there's nowhere left to go. If you care about such things, now is not the time to hop on board this train. It won't be long, I suspect, before "modern" is defined as big lapels and stronger shoulders, a la Tom Ford.

I bought an Adriano & Sons coat from Yoox that came in a good three inches too short, even though it was marked an R. That's just sillly. But a slightly short coat can look good on the right guy.

Ultimately, you should decide what you like, independent of the latest trends, and buy that.

 

[Icehawk]

I do, I think it looks more modern and at 5'7", 130lbs a normal length jacket can be a bit overwhelming on me. I also think thinner lapels and thinner ties work too for me - I'm not a size 40. However I am not looking to dress 100% in the SF classically approved look either.

 

[Mr. Moo]

Senior Member mafoofan prefers shorter jackets. Private message him for details.

 

[couch]

I'm always surprised how seldom people mention body proportions when discussing this question. To wit: if you have fairly short legs compared to your torso, a shortER jacket will usually help balance the effect. If you have very long legs and a short waist, a shorter jacket will make you look like a stork. If you have short legs and long arms (less common, but not exotic), a shorter jacket can exaggerate the arm length, and you risk looking like an ape.

So adjusting jacket length to help balance proportions works, within a reasonable range. The idea ought to be that people don't notice that the jacket is any particular length--you just look appropriate in it. If you or others are tempted to say, "What a stylishly short jacket!" you're probably asking for trouble.

Another hoary rule of thumb is that jacket length should not be obviously longer than half the distance from top of collar to floor (or alternatively, to rear cuff). The beneficial aspect of this rule is that it helps normalize the apparent leg-torso proportions cited above. Like all such rules, it can lead one astray, but more seldom than most.

 

[MORNINGSTAR777]

I prefer short within reason. Long enough that it covers the seat of my pants, but just so. I find that if it's any shorter (doesn't cover your cheeks) the jackets proportions are thrown off and end up looking compressed.

 

[MyOtherLife]

Most of my jackets cover my butt though I have 2 or 3 that shows 1"-2" of the bottom curve if it.
I agree that one has to have the build to pull off the slightly shorter jacket, and in my opinion
this is a youthful looking, slender gent with a small butt.

Originally Posted by holymadness

I believe the formula for 'classic' jacket length is (your height in inches/2)-4 = length in inches.

Hmm..I admit I never thought about it mathematically..I want to see if this tip is correct for me;
my height 72" =divided by 2 (36") -4 = 32"? is this correct?
Now, is this from the base of the jacket neck to the jacket bottom?
Please confirm.

 

[holymadness]

That's correct. The info comes from Despos, btw.

 

[RoyalPaJamas]

Originally Posted by couch

I'm always surprised how seldom people mention body proportions when discussing this question. To wit: if you have fairly short legs compared to your torso, a shortER jacket will usually help balance the effect. If you have very long legs and a short waist, a shorter jacket will make you look like a stork. If you have short legs and long arms (less common, but not exotic), a shorter jacket can exaggerate the arm length, and you risk looking like an ape.

So adjusting jacket length to help balance proportions works, within a reasonable range. The idea ought to be that people don't notice that the jacket is any particular length--you just look appropriate in it. If you or others are tempted to say, "What a stylishly short jacket!" you're probably asking for trouble.

Another hoary rule of thumb is that jacket length should not be obviously longer than half the distance from top of collar to floor (or alternatively, to rear cuff). The beneficial aspect of this rule is that it helps normalize the apparent leg-torso proportions cited above. Like all such rules, it can lead one astray, but more seldom than most.

+1 million

As someone who is somewhat short (5'8") and very conscious of it (especially when standing at the bar trying to order a drink, surrounded on either side by 6'2" douche-jocks), I do whatever I can to increase at least my appearance of height. A slightly shorter jacket (~1") is one way of doing this.

 

[Gus]

I'm 6' 2", 185 and always wore 42L (about 33" from BOC). About 2 years ago I started getting 42R (about 31" from BOC) and had some L jackets shortened with good results. But every now and then I try on a regular and it just doesn't look right. Yet a long looks...long. I may just go back to buying longs and have them taken up a inch for a medium L look.

 

[luftvier]

Used to like, but no longer. A correct-length jacket just looks better and more balanced.

 

[NotoriousMarquis]

The Bottom two are not shorter, they are just right. The problem with shorter and smaller suits is that they look good on models because they are decorated and treated for hours before they are shot. People think that small and short means slim. No, slim is a category on its own. A short suit makes you look like youre 15 and you cant dress yourself.

 

[comrade]

No. I usually err on the longer side.

 

[Mr. Tweed]

Originally Posted by couch

I'm always surprised how seldom people mention body proportions when discussing this question. To wit: if you have fairly short legs compared to your torso, a shortER jacket will usually help balance the effect. If you have very long legs and a short waist, a shorter jacket will make you look like a stork. If you have short legs and long arms (less common, but not exotic), a shorter jacket can exaggerate the arm length, and you risk looking like an ape.

So adjusting jacket length to help balance proportions works, within a reasonable range. The idea ought to be that people don't notice that the jacket is any particular length--you just look appropriate in it. If you or others are tempted to say, "What a stylishly short jacket!" you're probably asking for trouble.

Another hoary rule of thumb is that jacket length should not be obviously longer than half the distance from top of collar to floor (or alternatively, to rear cuff). The beneficial aspect of this rule is that it helps normalize the apparent leg-torso proportions cited above. Like all such rules, it can lead one astray, but more seldom than most.

Some good advice, indeed. However, jacket length must also be viewed upon in relation to the cut of the jacket and the trousers to match . Longer jackets can look very elegant, but need a more pronounced shape not to look outsized. Shorter jackets should preferably be two buttoned to avoid a childish look. Soft shoulder jackets can be made shorter than sharp shoulder jackets - if to short the latter would look all to square and boxy. A shorter jacket would usually find a suitable partner in trousers of a slimmer and lower cut.

Here are some more thoughts of mine on the topic of jacket length:

Jacket Length - Keeping Your Butt Covered

Yours,
Mr. Tweed