Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.
I love those... Looking good
If it goes away after a few wears I'm not sure it's a defect; rather, some would call that the break-in process. My lumps did not go away - but I'm glad yours did.
Maybe a break in process but just seems that lately the cork beds are not as uniformed as use to be
I've had one pair of shoes where I felt this issue - a pair of 5th street boots about a year ago. I returned them rather than trying to break them in - I hope yours work out.
I've had one pair also that had large lumps in the foot bed. It was the Vinci of the seven collection during the 2 for $200 sale. I returned them and unfortunately there were no more left in my size and it was a discontinued model. In hindsight I should have kept them and sent them in to be resoled and a new foot bed done. That would have brought the cost up to $200 but that shoe was worth all of that, and more. Not sure why I just thought of that and didn't at the time...
I don't think the McAllister was ever offered in corrected grain, was it?
I agree here on the use of saddle soap. It does seem to carry a misconception on SF that it will somehow kill your shoes (ignoring the fact that it has been in use for countless years to care for leather). Granted, calfskin is more delicate than full grain cowhide saddles which is what saddle soap was developed for, but the more delicate nature of calfskin doesn't mean you can't use saddle soap. I have used it to strip off years of built up polish (especially when AE's cleaner/conditioner doesn't quite get all of it). After use, the leather is silky smooth and very soft. I haven't had any bad results yet. Justin Fitzpatrick on his Shoe Snob blog indicates that he uses it for this purpose as well: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/p/polish-your-shoes-properly.html and considering that he runs a shoe shine stand for Gieves and Hawkes shining $1000.00 + shoes, I would take his word that it is plenty safe.
Long Branch Firsts for $195.00? I thought I got a good deal on my Seconds for that price on Black Friday.
Yep - AE calls it "polished cobbler." An example:
I had a pair of black MacNeils for a while in corrected grain. It's decent for corrected grain, but it's not full grain leather...
I tried the Bourbon Calf Strands on again last night and they actually fit how I like them. Kind of tight like a soccer cleat but that's what I prefer. Oddly when I tried them on yesterday morning they felt tighter but I suppose my feet may have been swollen or something. I'll give them a few more tries around the house before I scar them on the sidewalk.
Did you find that corrected grain leather has an unfair reputation in terms of durability then?
Also, a side question that the pictures of the shoes in that ebay posting reminded me of... When you look at the pictures of the soles, you see where the stitching on the bottom of the shoes has been worn down. Any experience with this leading to sole separation from the welt before the soles are actually worn out? They are supposed to be "lock-stitched", so my understanding is that they should still be very durable even after the concrete has worn down the stitching on the bottom of the shoes. Just curious if you or anyone else has had any experience otherwise. Some of my shoes have worn through some small segments of the stitching (like at the toe, or at the widest point of the sole around the ball of the foot), but not enough to lead to sole separation. The shoes in the ebay pictures have had a major percentage worn through.
Quality corrected grain shoes can be very durable. They will have the micro-creases you see in that auction, but if rotated like any other quality shoe will last extremely well. I just do not find that sort of creasing attractive. My business partner has a few pair that are going on 30 years old, and they will last him for the remainder of his career, I am confident. One pair, in particular, is a pair of AE saddle shoes that he wears any time it rains or snows, sometimes 3-4 days in a row. The only care he gives them is the periodic airport shoe shine.
I have seen shoes where the sole stitching is worn as you see in that auction, and much worse. As you correctly point out, it should be "lock" stitched, so the sole will not come away from the welt due to this sort of wear.
The creasing is the primary reason that they are a turn-off for me as well. I hadn't given much thought to the resiliency they would have in rain though... food for thought!
I found my Strands to be the tightest shoes I own. I'm a 12B in most AE shoes, 11.5C in the park ave (although i also fit in the 12B). Tight might not be the right word (for me at least), though. There is no pain, no pressure, etc. It's the kind of fit that you put them on and are like "i wonder if my foot will fall asleep" - it never does. It's pretty much the way I imagine all shoes should fit. Kind of like tightening a stretch cotton surcingle belt one extra hole - if that makes any sense!
Picked these off the 'bay from the guy that was selling his Moras that I posted earlier.
Niles, 8 last, model number 2538 in Brown calf.
Straight out from the box
Next to my walnut Shell Strands]/b]
After a coat of Saphir Renovateur
After a coat of Saphir Dark Brown Cream Polish
After two coats of Saphir Neutral wax on the captoe (I think my AE Brown Wax dried out]
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