Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2019 - News, Pictures, Clothing, Accessories, etc.

[madhat]

Last question on this admittedly narrow topic: the edge dressing or color wax goes directly onto the welt, over the thread? I've not seen this done, but it always seemed to me like the thread from the factory wasn't generally colored the same as the underlying leather. Or is it that sometimes it is and sometimes it isn't? I just haven't seen any examples online of people manually coloring the welt itself, which makes me think it's a fool's errand, and I'm missing something...

The simplest method is to simply do the edges and leave the top lighter. Buff will darken some with wear. You can change the top of the welt color as well, but will require more care/skill. If you want to not make the stitches the same color as the welt, you can be reeeeaaally careful or use a qtip with acetone/alcohol to pull it off afterwards.

After all this discussion I have come to a conclusion. Rather than trying to stain a buff edge and the top of the welt, it's probably simpler to order a brown welt/edge, sand down JUST the edges, and color them chili. The brown welt isn't going to be as much of a contrast with the chili edge as an unpainted bufff welt with chili edges.

 

[stook1]

I agree with everything you said entirely. Having tinkered a bit with sanding edges and dye projects, I think it's very likely that you'll end up coloring the welt stitching if you try to color the welt, which is in my view very undesirable. It will be very difficult or possibly impossible to fix this once it happens.

I think @madhat recommendation is the best possible option. Or, perhaps organize a poll and try to persuade AE to change the edge option to chili instead of brown.

The simplest method is to simply do the edges and leave the top lighter. Buff will darken some with wear. You can change the top of the welt color as well, but will require more care/skill. If you want to not make the stitches the same color as the welt, you can be reeeeaaally careful or use a qtip with acetone/alcohol to pull it off afterwards.

After all this discussion I have come to a conclusion. Rather than trying to stain a buff edge and the top of the welt, it's probably simpler to order a brown welt/edge, sand down JUST the edges, and color them chili. The brown welt isn't going to be as much of a contrast with the chili edge as an unpainted bufff welt with chili edges.

 

[Shoenut]

I contacted AE about the squeaky MacNeils.
They don't seem to think its unusual and said I should just use "Leather Lotion" on them.

Now AE leather lotion is not something I can buy here in Europe but I have used Colonil 1909 Leather Lotion on them to no avail.
Doesn't look like they want to help or get involved though.

Thank you for your inquiry. We apologize for any concerns that have occurred with your Macneil style.

Squeaking sometimes occurs on shoes because we use authentic leathers such as calfskin. When two pieces of leather rub against each other, such as the leather lining, upper leather and /or tongue leathers, squeaking may occur due to the friction. The fix is usually quite simple; general wear will help dissipate the noise. or you can apply Leather Lotion as a lubricant. Leather Lotion can be found at AllenEdmonds.com, or you can also visit an Allen Edmonds store and have a store associate apply the lotion for you.

They're giving you the dodge. Don't take no for an answer. Get someone else on the phone.

Although AE is correct when they say squeaking is the result of two pieces of leather rubbing against each other, it should not be the lining that is attached to the upper. That is why backing and glue is used when they assemble the upper. You even place fabric over a shanked shoe before attaching the sole. Seems like they lumped your concern with standard tongue rubbing against the lining of the shoe. Unfortunately that shoe is not reparable for that type of squeak. It just needs to be replaced. The trick is getting a hold of someone knowledgeable enough of the product.

 

[pbrandes]

I think @madhat recommendation is the best possible option. Or, perhaps organize a poll and try to persuade AE to change the edge option to chili instead of brown.

I agree on madhat's recommendation but I would vote against swapping out the brown edge option for the trunk show - I think brown edge is better suited to both the green and navy shell.

 

[ptfly]

Shoe color matching question:

Thoughts on the first and third fabrics? The first (far left) is a brown plaid; the third is an olive plaid with a very subtle pattern. All are 100% wool men's slacks.

Would all colors of shoes go with both fabrics? I.e. black shell, burgundy shell(#8), brown shell, cigar shell, bourbon shell, and potentially chili?

View attachment 1227170

Bonus: black shell Park Avenue on my feet!

My opinion (and I have more olive and brown pants than anyone in their right mind would have), I would not wear black shoes with patterns 1 or 3. I definitely prefer brown shoes with olives and depending on how dark the pattern I like burgundy with olive. Green is the most variable color so a lot depends on where the green falls on the color wheel.
Usually for me it is tougher to pick the shirt/blazer colors to go with olive than the shoes. I think in general earthy colors mix well.

 

[stook1]

I agree on madhat's recommendation but I would vote against swapping out the brown edge option for the trunk show - I think brown edge is better suited to both the green and navy shell.

I will say first and foremost that I'm probably not ordering navy or green. Having said that, I definitely prefer the chili with navy. Or perhaps black for a more formal look. Or even the buff for a very casual look. Brown is probably my last preference.

With green, I'm not sure but I'd probably only go black edges with green.

 

[goalaso]

The simplest method is to simply do the edges and leave the top lighter. Buff will darken some with wear. You can change the top of the welt color as well, but will require more care/skill. If you want to not make the stitches the same color as the welt, you can be reeeeaaally careful or use a qtip with acetone/alcohol to pull it off afterwards.

After all this discussion I have come to a conclusion. Rather than trying to stain a buff edge and the top of the welt, it's probably simpler to order a brown welt/edge, sand down JUST the edges, and color them chili. The brown welt isn't going to be as much of a contrast with the chili edge as an unpainted bufff welt with chili edges.

OF COURSE. It seems so obvious that this is the solution once you say it. Thank you. Now I'm curious what the standard storm welt color will be for the brown translucent and buff edge, whether it will differ depending on shell color. I'm guessing not, and chili shell willl be like green and navy shell from the last TS for brown translucent edge (which had darker brown storm welt), and buff edge will take buff welt...

Having said all that, this thread might be the final word, with @DWFII and @Nick V. weighing in that doing a DIY edge color change, even using something like AE dressing, can't replicate the weather protection, wax, and sealant that you get from the original manufacturing process, and that after-market edge dressings might "bleed" when the sole gets wet:

DIY Cobbler-ing: Changing Sole Edge Color

You may remember a while back I posted a thread on how I dyed a pair of boots from light tan to dark brown. Well, this week I attempted a second DIY shoe project: changing the color of the sole/heel edge. I've always thought that #8 shell looked better with a natural or lighter brown edge...

www.styleforum.net

 

[madhat]

OF COURSE. It seems so obvious that this is the solution once you say it. Thank you. Now I'm curious what the standard storm welt color will be for the brown translucent and buff edge, whether it will differ depending on shell color. I'm guessing not, and chili shell willl be like green and navy shell from the last TS for brown translucent edge (which had darker brown storm welt), and buff edge will take buff welt...

They color the welt, whether flat or reverse (AE doesn't have any storm welts right now as far as I know), will be the same as the edge.
Brown will get brown, buff will get buff, black with black. The brown welt may trend darker than the heel, but it'll be pretty close in most lighting conditions.
Highest most piercing light you'll likely ever see them in:

This is the translucent brown depending on luck of the draw, you may end up with it being lighter like the middle layer, resembling chili.

 

[madhat]

OF COURSE. It seems so obvious that this is the solution once you say it. Thank you. Now I'm curious what the standard storm welt color will be for the brown translucent and buff edge, whether it will differ depending on shell color. I'm guessing not, and chili shell willl be like green and navy shell from the last TS for brown translucent edge (which had darker brown storm welt), and buff edge will take buff welt...

Having said all that, this thread might be the final word, with @DWFII and @Nick V. weighing in that doing a DIY edge color change, even using something like AE dressing, can't replicate the weather protection, wax, and sealant that you get from the original manufacturing process, and that after-market edge dressings might "bleed" when the sole gets wet:

DIY Cobbler-ing: Changing Sole Edge Color

You may remember a while back I posted a thread on how I dyed a pair of boots from light tan to dark brown. Well, this week I attempted a second DIY shoe project: changing the color of the sole/heel edge. I've always thought that #8 shell looked better with a natural or lighter brown edge...

www.styleforum.net

It looks like he tried to use leather dye on the edges? Why? Edge dressing would have been much simpler

Tons of people have used edge dressing for years with no issues. Plus, it's what all manufacturers are going to recommend to touch up your edges because they WILL get scuffed if you wear them. When we say "raw" edges, it's still a tanned leather.

 

[ProfilaBinding]

I'm considering sanding down my black sole on my green shell Parks. I think green looks better with brown than black. The only problem is that the flat welt would still be black, and there's nothing that can be done to change that.

 

[M2511]

I agree with everything you said entirely. Having tinkered a bit with sanding edges and dye projects, I think it's very likely that you'll end up coloring the welt stitching if you try to color the welt, which is in my view very undesirable. It will be very difficult or possibly impossible to fix this once it happens.

I think @madhat recommendation is the best possible option. Or, perhaps organize a poll and try to persuade AE to change the edge option to chili instead of brown.

I would venture that brown would be the more popular choice. All of my green and navy have brown translucent. Everyone has different tastes though. Would it be nice if chili was also an option? Sure. But given the rest of the offering and a new shell color I think it’s ok. I’d probably only use the chili edge for natty shell. Maybe burgundy although I think the lighter translucent brown is a better fit.

 

[ptfly]

I agree with the brown on green because they go together but also since I would probably wear a brown belt with a green shell shoe.
I keep bouncing around the black with blue idea since I tend to wear navy shoes with Grey the most often.
Navy, green then chilli are the order of my TS wants but can only cough up for one possibly two unless I sell a watch or kidney.

I'm considering sanding down my black sole on my green shell Parks. I think green looks better with brown than black. The only problem is that the flat welt would still be black, and there's nothing that can be done to change that.

 

[AEfaninTampa]

Shoe color matching question:

Thoughts on the first and third fabrics? The first (far left) is a brown plaid; the third is an olive plaid with a very subtle pattern. All are 100% wool men's slacks.

Would all colors of shoes go with both fabrics? I.e. black shell, burgundy shell(#8), brown shell, cigar shell, bourbon shell, and potentially chili?

View attachment 1227170

Bonus: black shell Park Avenue on my feet!

So funny - I was doing the same thing a few weeks ago - trying to play with options to go with navy and green.

[edit] And no, not for a kilt.

 

[mreams99]

I switched from the navy chinos and black shell Leeds to something even more casual for the evening.
It’s all the same color combination though, with double dark denim and black Eagle County boots.

 

[Shoonoob]

OF COURSE. It seems so obvious that this is the solution once you say it. Thank you. Now I'm curious what the standard storm welt color will be for the brown translucent and buff edge, whether it will differ depending on shell color. I'm guessing not, and chili shell willl be like green and navy shell from the last TS for brown translucent edge (which had darker brown storm welt), and buff edge will take buff welt...

Having said all that, this thread might be the final word, with @DWFII and @Nick V. weighing in that doing a DIY edge color change, even using something like AE dressing, can't replicate the weather protection, wax, and sealant that you get from the original manufacturing process, and that after-market edge dressings might "bleed" when the sole gets wet:

DIY Cobbler-ing: Changing Sole Edge Color

You may remember a while back I posted a thread on how I dyed a pair of boots from light tan to dark brown. Well, this week I attempted a second DIY shoe project: changing the color of the sole/heel edge. I've always thought that #8 shell looked better with a natural or lighter brown edge...

www.styleforum.net

Last comment I will make on the subject. In addition to many vintage shoes I've done some new shoes because the edge they come with is no where near the professional job DFW described. 120 to 800 grit wrapped around a square gum eraser gives you a flat smooth edge. AE edge dressing followed by a couple coats of neutral Lincoln Wax burnished with a nylon stocking has held up to year round wear outdoors in Chicago weather. No bleeding whatsoever.
Every AE pair I have is finished flat and not exceptionally smooth.

TL;DR if you feel like it you can drastically improve your factory edges at home.