stook1
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Leeds 2 - Leeds 1 = 1
Well done.
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Leeds 2 - Leeds 1 = 1
I have sanded down quite a few edges to bare leather and refinished them with AE chili dressing and neutral wax. Different leathers will pull a bit lighter or darker but they all look pretty much the same.Chili has some red tones in it, but I've had times where there was very little difference once applied between chili and natural. Depends on the raw leather and how much it darkens. I've had some that stays very light with neutral and some that darkens to that color or darker...
Yes, this. Can one apply some sort of "chili" AE edge dressing to a natural or buff edge and get this Alden antique edge color more or less, as in the photograph? On the AE site, I see this: https://www.allenedmonds.com/shoe-c...MI2pnMp4uS5AIVcRh9Ch00-gTLEAQYASABEgKcRfD_BwE
Is that what you'd use?
You have peaked my curiousity. What's the difference between Leeds 1 and Leeds 2, again? Feel like I should know this...
Hm, this is interesting. So just to be clear, and establish the feasibility (as much as the possibility) of doing this: if the buff edge in this TS is in fact without any coating, then it is effectively the bare leather already sanded down. So all you'd have to do is apply that linked AE chili edge and heel dressing (which is presumably just an alcohol-based leather dye?), let it soak in, and then if you want, apply some neutral wax over it? And viola? It seems too easy.I have sanded down quite a few edges to bare leather and refinished them with AE chili dressing and neutral wax. Different leathers will pull a bit lighter or darker but they all look pretty much the same.
View attachment 1227161
Hm, this is interesting. So just to be clear, and establish the feasibility (as much as the possibility) of doing this: if the buff edge in this TS is in fact without any coating, then it is effectively the bare leather already sanded down. So all you'd have to do is apply that linked AE chili edge and heel dressing (which is presumably just an alcohol-based leather dye?), let it soak in, and then if you want, apply some neutral wax over it? And viola? It seems too easy.
@savvysartorial points out that taping the uppers might be necessary to get to the actual welt, which might look strange if it remained buff next to the now chili edge. Realistically, how feasible is this to do as an individual at home? Because it seems challenging to also dye the welt without getting some of the leather or not fully dying the welt. Resources I've found (see below) only deal with the edge. And given the name AE "edge and heel" dressing, would the welt even take it up evenly, with the stitching and whatnot?
I keep going back to this post.Oh and just to get the creative juices flowing...
Bayfield:
View attachment 1223177
Dalton
View attachment 1223178
Higgins Mill
View attachment 1223179
Dundee
View attachment 1223180
MacNeil
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Cornwallis
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Leeds
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Fifth Avenue
View attachment 1223196
Randolph
View attachment 1223188
Strand
View attachment 1223190
Fifth Street
View attachment 1223191
In fantasyland exercising “some” restraint, id go:
Brown Higgins Mill with Dainite.
You have peaked my curiousity. What's the difference between Leeds 1 and Leeds 2, again? Feel like I should know this...
Both are on the 511, but the Leeds 2.0 have the poron padded footbed and are lasted looser to compensate for the extra space taken up by the foam. Leeds 1.0 in shell have the double JR leather sole and leather/cork footbed, which molds over time to the shape of your foot. So, other than the shell upper, the differences will be mainly in fit.
If redundancy is still a concern, consider that different color laces can further distinguish the two shoes. In the example below, having walnut Bartletts and natty shell Strands on hand saves me the onerous task of manually swapping laces to obtain two different looks:
View attachment 1227171
View attachment 1227172
No, they only use the standard leather insole for the Leeds 1 in the trunk shows. Poron doesn't get used all that much in the trunk show shoes. The Higgins Mill would have it, but not sure what else would use it.
Hm, this is interesting. So just to be clear, and establish the feasibility (as much as the possibility) of doing this: if the buff edge in this TS is in fact without any coating, then it is effectively the bare leather already sanded down. So all you'd have to do is apply that linked AE chili edge and heel dressing (which is presumably just an alcohol-based leather dye?), let it soak in, and then if you want, apply some neutral wax over it? And viola? It seems too easy.
@savvysartorial points out that taping the uppers might be necessary to get to the actual welt, which might look strange if it remained buff next to the now chili edge. Realistically, how feasible is this to do as an individual at home? Because it seems challenging to also dye the welt without getting some of the leather or not fully dying the welt. Resources I've found (see below) only deal with the edge. And given the name AE "edge and heel" dressing, would the welt even take it up evenly, with the stitching and whatnot?
YesShoe color matching question:
Thoughts on the first and third fabrics? The first (far left) is a brown plaid; the third is an olive plaid with a very subtle pattern. All are 100% wool men's slacks.
Would all colors of shoes go with both fabrics? I.e. black shell, burgundy shell(#8), brown shell, cigar shell, bourbon shell, and potentially chili?
View attachment 1227170
Bonus: black shell Park Avenue on my feet!