٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭ (a.k.a. I shouldn't have slept on it)

[in stitches]

tubo calf is what i was gifted and its phenomenal.

 

[europrep]

I am no expert on suit construction, so I am curious to know why the front seam on the Formosa suits extends all the way to the bottom of the jacket. Is it a matter of preference or is their a functional reason?

 

[in stitches]



I am no expert on suit construction, so I am curious to know why the front seam on the Formosa suits extends all the way to the bottom of the jacket. Is it a matter of preference or is their a functional reason? 

i wonder the same when i wear mine. i assumed is was not related to function, but either way, i like it, and it adds a cool touch to the look of the jacket imo.

 

[unbelragazzo]



I am no expert on suit construction, so I am curious to know why the front seam on the Formosa suits extends all the way to the bottom of the jacket. Is it a matter of preference or is their a functional reason? 

It's called an "extended front dart" - it's common, but neither universal in nor unique to Neapolitan tailoring. Supposedly it serves a purpose in shaping the quarters, but there are plenty of jackets made without them that have fine looking quarters.

AFAIK it's typically a bespoke feature though. The Neapolitan-made RTW jackets I have do not have extended front darts, while the bespoke jackets all do.

 

[gdl203]

I am no expert on suit construction, so I am curious to know why the front seam on the Formosa suits extends all the way to the bottom of the jacket. Is it a matter of preference or is their a functional reason?

It is emblematic of the Neapolitan cut - here's a good article by our own @dieworkwear with some of the hallmarks of the Neapolitan suit towards the end of the post : http://dieworkwear.com/post/7887787555/the-neapolitan-sartoria-experience

 

[europrep]

Thanks @gdl203 & @unbelragazzo . Very helpful.

 

[gdl203]

Esemplare shorts and Castaner espadrilles





Edit: Too pale leg profile shot removed

I know that was a little while ago but wanted to say that this whole look is just perfect

 

[gdl203]

This week, we are continuing our Spotlight series with Mackintosh, the famed Scottish maker of outerwear that changed the way millions think of a rain coat.

And because a good celebration should come with a gift enjoy a 20% discount this week only on all Mackintosh rain coats with code "Mackintosh".

DISCOVER MACKINTOSH​

Mackintosh is an enduring figure in the menswear landscape. They began nearly two centuries ago as an outerwear company specializing in rubberized cotton raincoats. Their garments became so popular that the word “mac” (from Mackintosh) has become the generic term for the single-breasted style of raincoat that they’ve come to champion. Today, their coats are highly sought after by both men and women around the world, and they’re as beloved for their utilitarian function as they are for their style and strong British heritage.

We love Mackintosh’s classic, yet modern look, their fitted silhouette, and quality of make. Every man deserves to have a Mackintosh coat in his closet, so he can smile and be well-dressed even on the foulest of bad-weather days.

SHOP MACKINTOSH​

​

 

[Wallcloud]

This may be a problem that is common here on the CM side of SF so I am just gonna ask here. I know nothing about jeans. There I said it. Can someone please just tell me what Big John jeans I should try? I am 6'5" and 235 lbs. I dont know how they should fit, I dont know anything about dye or raw denim or unadulterated Japanese selvedge. I have one pair of jeans that are covered in chainsaw grease and ball sweat. I will only wear jeans a few times a month and I dont want to learn about any of those things and yet I am frightened and a little intimidated about making a denim purchase. I need a reassuring and gentle push in the right direction. Please dont trick me into buying skinny jeans, I will, literally, buy whatever you tell me as long as you sound reasonable and confident.

Please someone just tell me what I should get.

 

[unbelragazzo]



This may be a problem that is common here on the CM side of SF so I am just gonna ask here. I know nothing about jeans. There I said it. Can someone please just tell me what Big John jeans I should try? I am 6'5" and 235 lbs. I dont know how they should fit, I dont know anything about dye or raw denim or unadulterated Japanese selvedge. I have one pair of jeans that are covered in chainsaw grease and ball sweat. I will only wear jeans a few times a month and I dont want to learn about any of those things and yet I am frightened and a little intimidated about making a denim purchase. I need a reassuring and gentle push in the right direction. Please dont trick me into buying skinny jeans, I will, literally, buy whatever you tell me as long as you sound reasonable and confident.

Please someone just tell me what I should get.

For learning denim terms, this isn't a bad place to start.

I'd get blue jeans, not black. Then it's just a matter of deciding what leg style you like...If you have #meatythighs, then get the regular cut, not the slim. Then if you get the slim, you have a choice between tapered and straight.

 

[dieworkwear]



This may be a problem that is common here on the CM side of SF so I am just gonna ask here. I know nothing about jeans. There I said it. Can someone please just tell me what Big John jeans I should try? I am 6'5" and 235 lbs. I dont know how they should fit, I dont know anything about dye or raw denim or unadulterated Japanese selvedge. I have one pair of jeans that are covered in chainsaw grease and ball sweat. I will only wear jeans a few times a month and I dont want to learn about any of those things and yet I am frightened and a little intimidated about making a denim purchase. I need a reassuring and gentle push in the right direction. Please dont trick me into buying skinny jeans, I will, literally, buy whatever you tell me as long as you sound reasonable and confident.

Please someone just tell me what I should get.

Jeans should fit differently than tailored trousers, but you can start by measuring your best fitting trousers, and try to guess which model you might like the most from those measurements. On some level, a lot can be determined by the rise measurement and leg opening. For example, if your trousers have a leg opening of 7.75" (let's say), and you absolutely know that 7.5" is the slimmest you'll go, then you can already rule out a couple of options. So on and so forth.

It's not a terribly good way of going about this, but if you don't already have a perfect pair of jeans, and you can't try things on right now, then it's not a bad place to start. Just note that - again - jeans should not fit like trousers (meaning, I think they can be slimmer, if that's what you prefer, and you shouldn't get them tailored to a perfect shivering break or whatever).

 

[gdl203]

Agreed. They should also not sit as high as dress trousers so this needs to be taken into consideration when looking at rise.

One thing I would steer you away from at this stage would be shrink-to-fit denim, which requires a bit more work and also some imagination to know how they'll fit after the soak.

Regular straight is probably a good place to start. Measuring your existing jeans is probably your best point of reference for sizing.

 

[dieworkwear]

For a split second, I thought the post about Mackintosh above was still about the Cantarelli sale, and that this photo was of an Italian cutter working on a piece of cloth with a pizza cutter.

 

[gdl203]

Everyone knows they don't cut cloth with a pizza cutter in Arezzo.

Only the Neapolitans do

 

[sprout2]

I was scrolling fast from bottom to top and I saw that blue material emerge, and I thought it was seated legs in navy pants, and I kept scrolling and I saw that hand clutching something, and I thought I was in the creepy sartorial images thread for a moment