shoreman1782
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Compiled by Pete Anderson
The appeal of seasonal fall clothing is in quantity as much as quality. When the weather turns cool, we can wear more clothes. Layers. Sweaters. Scarves and hats. Summer makes us ruthlessly edit, fall allows us to drape ourselves however we damn well please. This year, the opportunities to stuff our closets with color, texture, and pattern, in classic shapes and new ones, are as plentiful as Republican presidential debates--there are hundreds. We asked some Styleforum members and affiliates what was catching their eyes this fall, and suggest you treat yourself 2011.
Julian Nelson—A Fine Pair of Shoes
Julian submitted the Alfred Sargent Cambridge boot, a pebble grain captoe model with a Dainite sole. Ideal match for the weighty fabrics of fall. “They are built on the famous 87 last, giving them sleek lines but offering real comfort,” offered Julian. Part of the AS Exclusive range (as opposed to Handgrade), these classic Goodyear welt, Northampton-made boots are available from A Fine Pair of Shoes for £347.
Spoopoker
“My favorite purchase of the season has to be the Carmina brown suede captoes, on the Simpson last,” said Spoo. “I had been looking for a reasonably priced captoe in a dark suede for fall, and decided to give these a try.” Spoo ordered from The Armory, who offered opinions on sizing and style. “The last is perfect for me--sleek, chisel toed, and a narrow-ish waist. They are classic and modern at the same time, in my opinion. I would strongly recommend this shoe to anyone.” Spoo’s enthusiasm was echoed by edmorel, who is pleased to see Carmina’s new cordovan models: “They provide an alternative to the Alden cordovan monopoly, not only in offering more cordovan shoes than any other RTW brand (other than Alden) but offering a different aesthetic from Alden at a similar price.” Available at the Armory, for $3800 HKD (about $525). Carmina will also soon be available at Epaulet (this post previously stated that another vendors planned to carry Carmina, but our information was inaccurate--sorry!)
Synthese
Regular Streetwear + Denim contributor Synthese was jonesing for an Odyn Vovk moto jacket and cultural criticism. “In this era of total social dissonance and cultural desensitization, it's natural that runway shows as the traditional venue for designer presentations have lost a bit of their relevance. That's why I like this Odyn Vovk jacket; the show is boring, the styling is terrible and it's completely at odds with a runway setting. The jacket itself, however, is pretty bad-ass. Mr. Sherbanenko's gone from being dismissed as a Rick-alike to having, if not a genuine or original point of view, genuine balls.” Available from Blackbird, $1992.
Kirby Allison, the Hanger Project
Mr. Allison’s hangers (and other closet accoutrements) enjoy a sterling reputation. His shop has recently launched a second, modern finish for its collection of luxury wooden hangers. “In addition to their traditional finish, the entire collection is now available in a satin-finished maple wood with chrome hardware and black flocking.” Maybe a better match for your Dwell-photo-shoot-ready “modern cottage.” Available at the Hanger Project.
Chris, Need Supply
Need Supply updated a perennial Styleforum choice, the Alden Indy Boot. "The Indy boot silhouette is an iconic American classic. We worked closely with Alden to take a boot that we loved and make it our own." Need Supply's biggest change was adding a white Vibram sole, giving the mocc-toe Indy a little more modern workboot character. Chris expects to receive these at the shop by the end of November.
Mike Kuhle, Epaulet
Mr. Kuhle touted, among Epaulet’s house label triumphs, his mixed-fabric Harris Tweed sportcoat. Called the Daltrey, the jacket is cut exclusively for Epaulet by Southwick of Massachusetts, and constructed with a half-canvas method. The “‘Anglo-American’ piece represents our favorite elements of both British and American tailoring,” says Kuhle. And it blends details from both traditions--it’s a 3-roll-2 jacket, with double vents and suede elbow patches. Patch flap hip pockets and a patch breast pocket complete the jacket, which combines navy marl, oatmeal herringbone, and a gray-green basket-weave tweeds. Available at Epaulet, $850.
Tween Spirit
Quirkmeister general Tween Spirit liked a piece for the home/lair. “January. 2012 AD. You just brought back a tech babe to your hidden bunker somewhere on the Whistler backcountry after your stealth ops mission. Are you really going to cozy up in some Pendleton Navajo business? Hudson’s Bay? Maintain some integrity and explore the only terrain your tech gear can’t prepare you for with this moonscape throw.” Available from DQtrs, $360-$400.
Ryan Barr, Saddleback Leather
Saddleback ignored the quantity vs. quality conflict and went for both. The Saddleback Tow Belt sews three lengths of full-grain leather into one. The 1.5-inch wide strap uses marine-grade thread to sew two veg-tanned layer to a chrome-tanned visible layer, with no shortcuts taken in materials or construction. Ryan suggests towing your F-150 with it, but I drive a Honda Civic so it would have to settle for trouser duty for me. The Tow Belt is available in black, chestnut, coffee, or tobacco tones. Available direct from Saddleback, $93.
Ben, eHaberdasher
It’s surprising to me that Kiton even deigns to work with lesser cloths than cashmere. Why bother? Although Kiton knits retail north of $1k, drape yourself in lofty goat fur for less with the collection Ben from eHaberdasher offered, in “muted grays and browns, and classic Italian colors like orange, purple and green.” Available from eHaberdasher, prices vary.
Joao, Wrong Weather
Joao submitted a pick from Stephan Schneider, a Belgian designer known for his unique (literally--he designs his own) fabrics and complex knits. Joao call the, slouchy, hooded Alpaca Double Jacket "The most sought-after item of this season so far at WW.
A beautiful jacket that only Stephan Schneider can do this good." Available from Wrong Weather, about $720.
niidawg
niidawg picked out a couple of staple accessories--a restrained and refined wool challis tie and a tweed bag--both suitable to accompany most tailored wardrobes. “The tie is made of great colors and a fabric that would complement a lot of autumnal colors. The price point is very fair also.” Available at ralphlauren.com, $125. “Based on my hands-on assessment of this tweed bag, it would hold up to a lot of use for quite a few years. Comes in both brown and black, but the brown would be my first option as a great fall accessory for weekends. Combined with the BB's upcoming sale this could be had at a great price.” Available at brooksbrothers.com, $348.
Kiya, Self Edge
Denim and leather emperor Kiya said "I personally need this Mister Freedom jacket for myself, just have to decide on the color." The Mister Freedom Le Paletot moleskin jacket, available in both black or creme is a "medium weight jacket made of a windproof tightly woven moleskin fabric which looks great dressed up or down. We love the leather accented pockets and and the inner flap pocket, it's versatile and warm." Lined with striped cotton ticking (body, sleeves) and Bedford corduroy (pockets), the jacket closes with Corozo buttons. Available from Self Edge, $750.
Michael Andersen, Tanner Goods / The Woodlands
Mr. Andersen repped the northwest with picks from Tanner and a local, truly old school knitwear manufacturer. “On its own, a simple thing is almost always satisfying. Sometimes, though, by bringing it together with another element that’s equally pure of purpose, a simple thing can be improved. In this case, we took our Double Wrap Wristband, and added a hand-cast sterling silver clasp.” Designed and hand-carved by a Tanner artist, and cast in sterling in Beth Wagner’s Portland studio, the Silver Double Wrap bracelet, is available from Tanner Goods in black/natural, saddle tan/black and cognac/natural, $85
The Woodlands is the first U.S. store to stock Dehen Knitting’s reproduction line, bringing back designs from the pre-WWII era when Dehen made motorcycle club sweaters. Heavyweight, some models use “nearly three pounds of yarn,“ according to Andersen. Available at the Woodlands, $275.
Guy Ferguson, Four Horsemen
Guy selected a work shirt from Dana Lee, a NY designer whose sense of honest shapes in unusual fabric reminds me of Margaret Howell’s stuff, only in an American context.”This is our first season working with Dana Lee and we couldn't be more excited. All her garments are manufactured in Canada or the USA and most employ a unique fabric or undergo a custom dyeing process. This shirt in a reversed floral print flannel is a perfect example of what makes this line so special and it's our pick of the season.” Available at Four Horsemen, $210
Tim, Cedarville
Another entry in the cutthroat luxury hanger market is the German-engineered Mawa hanger. These coated steel hangers are economically sized and grippy so the only clothes on the floor will be the ones you toss there your lazy self. Among the eight styles are some with broader shoulders to support sport coats. Available at Cedarville, $3.50 - $11.95.
Pocketsquareguy
From pocketsquareguy we got a couple of submissions. First up, his namesake accessory: a pocket square from Drakes London. The unicorn print silk and wool square “comes in five different colorways. Very nice fall/winter colors, classic detail. You will keep this one for years to come.” This choice also endorsed by Manton! Available from the A Suitable Wardrobe shop, $80.
PSG also recommended Arlington Aftershave Liquid from D.R. Harris, $40 and $52. “A wonderful, light citrus aroma. A favorite of mine for 14 years now starting to become available in the U.S. at better specialty men's stores.” $40 to $52, available from the A Suitable Wardrobe Shop or direct from D.R. Harris's London store.
Ian, shopthefinest.com
Ian found fall inspiration in a pair of deep burgundy Santoni wholecuts. Subtle skin stitching and a complex but natural patina put these in the top drawer of Italian-made shoes. Recommended for advanced dressers only (10). Available from shopthefinest, $1279.
Kent Wang, kentwang.com
Longtime Styleforum member and pioneering pocket square merchant Kent Wang expanded his popular range of polos this fall to add his version of a rugby shirt. Rather than the sport-specific details like ribbed cuffs and rubber buttons, Kent’s design has a collar in self fabric and closes with mother-of-pearl buttons, including those on a shirt-style button cuff with gauntlet. Kent’s collar is spread “for a rakish look.” For those with deciduous trees in the neighborhood, it’s also suitable as a raking look. In navy, white, or white with navy stripes at kentwang.com, $85.
We've posted this thread in both Men's Clothing and Streetwear and Denim. See what the other side has to say.
The appeal of seasonal fall clothing is in quantity as much as quality. When the weather turns cool, we can wear more clothes. Layers. Sweaters. Scarves and hats. Summer makes us ruthlessly edit, fall allows us to drape ourselves however we damn well please. This year, the opportunities to stuff our closets with color, texture, and pattern, in classic shapes and new ones, are as plentiful as Republican presidential debates--there are hundreds. We asked some Styleforum members and affiliates what was catching their eyes this fall, and suggest you treat yourself 2011.
Julian Nelson—A Fine Pair of Shoes
Julian submitted the Alfred Sargent Cambridge boot, a pebble grain captoe model with a Dainite sole. Ideal match for the weighty fabrics of fall. “They are built on the famous 87 last, giving them sleek lines but offering real comfort,” offered Julian. Part of the AS Exclusive range (as opposed to Handgrade), these classic Goodyear welt, Northampton-made boots are available from A Fine Pair of Shoes for £347.
Spoopoker
“My favorite purchase of the season has to be the Carmina brown suede captoes, on the Simpson last,” said Spoo. “I had been looking for a reasonably priced captoe in a dark suede for fall, and decided to give these a try.” Spoo ordered from The Armory, who offered opinions on sizing and style. “The last is perfect for me--sleek, chisel toed, and a narrow-ish waist. They are classic and modern at the same time, in my opinion. I would strongly recommend this shoe to anyone.” Spoo’s enthusiasm was echoed by edmorel, who is pleased to see Carmina’s new cordovan models: “They provide an alternative to the Alden cordovan monopoly, not only in offering more cordovan shoes than any other RTW brand (other than Alden) but offering a different aesthetic from Alden at a similar price.” Available at the Armory, for $3800 HKD (about $525). Carmina will also soon be available at Epaulet (this post previously stated that another vendors planned to carry Carmina, but our information was inaccurate--sorry!)
Synthese
Regular Streetwear + Denim contributor Synthese was jonesing for an Odyn Vovk moto jacket and cultural criticism. “In this era of total social dissonance and cultural desensitization, it's natural that runway shows as the traditional venue for designer presentations have lost a bit of their relevance. That's why I like this Odyn Vovk jacket; the show is boring, the styling is terrible and it's completely at odds with a runway setting. The jacket itself, however, is pretty bad-ass. Mr. Sherbanenko's gone from being dismissed as a Rick-alike to having, if not a genuine or original point of view, genuine balls.” Available from Blackbird, $1992.
Kirby Allison, the Hanger Project
Mr. Allison’s hangers (and other closet accoutrements) enjoy a sterling reputation. His shop has recently launched a second, modern finish for its collection of luxury wooden hangers. “In addition to their traditional finish, the entire collection is now available in a satin-finished maple wood with chrome hardware and black flocking.” Maybe a better match for your Dwell-photo-shoot-ready “modern cottage.” Available at the Hanger Project.
Chris, Need Supply
Need Supply updated a perennial Styleforum choice, the Alden Indy Boot. "The Indy boot silhouette is an iconic American classic. We worked closely with Alden to take a boot that we loved and make it our own." Need Supply's biggest change was adding a white Vibram sole, giving the mocc-toe Indy a little more modern workboot character. Chris expects to receive these at the shop by the end of November.
Mike Kuhle, Epaulet
Mr. Kuhle touted, among Epaulet’s house label triumphs, his mixed-fabric Harris Tweed sportcoat. Called the Daltrey, the jacket is cut exclusively for Epaulet by Southwick of Massachusetts, and constructed with a half-canvas method. The “‘Anglo-American’ piece represents our favorite elements of both British and American tailoring,” says Kuhle. And it blends details from both traditions--it’s a 3-roll-2 jacket, with double vents and suede elbow patches. Patch flap hip pockets and a patch breast pocket complete the jacket, which combines navy marl, oatmeal herringbone, and a gray-green basket-weave tweeds. Available at Epaulet, $850.
Tween Spirit
Quirkmeister general Tween Spirit liked a piece for the home/lair. “January. 2012 AD. You just brought back a tech babe to your hidden bunker somewhere on the Whistler backcountry after your stealth ops mission. Are you really going to cozy up in some Pendleton Navajo business? Hudson’s Bay? Maintain some integrity and explore the only terrain your tech gear can’t prepare you for with this moonscape throw.” Available from DQtrs, $360-$400.
Ryan Barr, Saddleback Leather
Saddleback ignored the quantity vs. quality conflict and went for both. The Saddleback Tow Belt sews three lengths of full-grain leather into one. The 1.5-inch wide strap uses marine-grade thread to sew two veg-tanned layer to a chrome-tanned visible layer, with no shortcuts taken in materials or construction. Ryan suggests towing your F-150 with it, but I drive a Honda Civic so it would have to settle for trouser duty for me. The Tow Belt is available in black, chestnut, coffee, or tobacco tones. Available direct from Saddleback, $93.
Ben, eHaberdasher
It’s surprising to me that Kiton even deigns to work with lesser cloths than cashmere. Why bother? Although Kiton knits retail north of $1k, drape yourself in lofty goat fur for less with the collection Ben from eHaberdasher offered, in “muted grays and browns, and classic Italian colors like orange, purple and green.” Available from eHaberdasher, prices vary.
Joao, Wrong Weather
Joao submitted a pick from Stephan Schneider, a Belgian designer known for his unique (literally--he designs his own) fabrics and complex knits. Joao call the, slouchy, hooded Alpaca Double Jacket "The most sought-after item of this season so far at WW.
A beautiful jacket that only Stephan Schneider can do this good." Available from Wrong Weather, about $720.
niidawg
niidawg picked out a couple of staple accessories--a restrained and refined wool challis tie and a tweed bag--both suitable to accompany most tailored wardrobes. “The tie is made of great colors and a fabric that would complement a lot of autumnal colors. The price point is very fair also.” Available at ralphlauren.com, $125. “Based on my hands-on assessment of this tweed bag, it would hold up to a lot of use for quite a few years. Comes in both brown and black, but the brown would be my first option as a great fall accessory for weekends. Combined with the BB's upcoming sale this could be had at a great price.” Available at brooksbrothers.com, $348.
Kiya, Self Edge
Denim and leather emperor Kiya said "I personally need this Mister Freedom jacket for myself, just have to decide on the color." The Mister Freedom Le Paletot moleskin jacket, available in both black or creme is a "medium weight jacket made of a windproof tightly woven moleskin fabric which looks great dressed up or down. We love the leather accented pockets and and the inner flap pocket, it's versatile and warm." Lined with striped cotton ticking (body, sleeves) and Bedford corduroy (pockets), the jacket closes with Corozo buttons. Available from Self Edge, $750.
Michael Andersen, Tanner Goods / The Woodlands
Mr. Andersen repped the northwest with picks from Tanner and a local, truly old school knitwear manufacturer. “On its own, a simple thing is almost always satisfying. Sometimes, though, by bringing it together with another element that’s equally pure of purpose, a simple thing can be improved. In this case, we took our Double Wrap Wristband, and added a hand-cast sterling silver clasp.” Designed and hand-carved by a Tanner artist, and cast in sterling in Beth Wagner’s Portland studio, the Silver Double Wrap bracelet, is available from Tanner Goods in black/natural, saddle tan/black and cognac/natural, $85
The Woodlands is the first U.S. store to stock Dehen Knitting’s reproduction line, bringing back designs from the pre-WWII era when Dehen made motorcycle club sweaters. Heavyweight, some models use “nearly three pounds of yarn,“ according to Andersen. Available at the Woodlands, $275.
Guy Ferguson, Four Horsemen
Guy selected a work shirt from Dana Lee, a NY designer whose sense of honest shapes in unusual fabric reminds me of Margaret Howell’s stuff, only in an American context.”This is our first season working with Dana Lee and we couldn't be more excited. All her garments are manufactured in Canada or the USA and most employ a unique fabric or undergo a custom dyeing process. This shirt in a reversed floral print flannel is a perfect example of what makes this line so special and it's our pick of the season.” Available at Four Horsemen, $210
Tim, Cedarville
Another entry in the cutthroat luxury hanger market is the German-engineered Mawa hanger. These coated steel hangers are economically sized and grippy so the only clothes on the floor will be the ones you toss there your lazy self. Among the eight styles are some with broader shoulders to support sport coats. Available at Cedarville, $3.50 - $11.95.
Pocketsquareguy
From pocketsquareguy we got a couple of submissions. First up, his namesake accessory: a pocket square from Drakes London. The unicorn print silk and wool square “comes in five different colorways. Very nice fall/winter colors, classic detail. You will keep this one for years to come.” This choice also endorsed by Manton! Available from the A Suitable Wardrobe shop, $80.
PSG also recommended Arlington Aftershave Liquid from D.R. Harris, $40 and $52. “A wonderful, light citrus aroma. A favorite of mine for 14 years now starting to become available in the U.S. at better specialty men's stores.” $40 to $52, available from the A Suitable Wardrobe Shop or direct from D.R. Harris's London store.
Ian, shopthefinest.com
Ian found fall inspiration in a pair of deep burgundy Santoni wholecuts. Subtle skin stitching and a complex but natural patina put these in the top drawer of Italian-made shoes. Recommended for advanced dressers only (10). Available from shopthefinest, $1279.
Kent Wang, kentwang.com
Longtime Styleforum member and pioneering pocket square merchant Kent Wang expanded his popular range of polos this fall to add his version of a rugby shirt. Rather than the sport-specific details like ribbed cuffs and rubber buttons, Kent’s design has a collar in self fabric and closes with mother-of-pearl buttons, including those on a shirt-style button cuff with gauntlet. Kent’s collar is spread “for a rakish look.” For those with deciduous trees in the neighborhood, it’s also suitable as a raking look. In navy, white, or white with navy stripes at kentwang.com, $85.
We've posted this thread in both Men's Clothing and Streetwear and Denim. See what the other side has to say.
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