Shoe formality hierarchy

[Geezer]



Geezer, you must be a rare exception.
I work in the Square Mile, in one the UK's ever-popular investment banks. I wear black monkstraps on occasion but very rarely see another pair. What I do see are lots of square-toed loafers and the occasional pair of ridden hard, put away wet Derbies.
Having worked in the City on and off for the last twenty years I can confirm its reputation for any sort of male sartorial elegance is grossly inflated.
The best dressed City workers I've seen are in Tokyo, the twenty and thirty something office workers there were almost universally well-dressed.

This proves my point.

 

[Geezer]



Very interesting that you say this because to my knowledge the only difference between the 888 and the 82 is in the shape of the toe. To say that the 888 is over-elongated and the 82 is not strikes me as a bit strange.

Maybe, but my 888s feel too long, and my 82s do not. Perhaps because the latter are more pointy, but 888s definitely have more out front.

 

[Fred G. Unn]

What about something like the C&J Edgware?

http://www.crockettandjones.com/Product/Edgware-Darkbrown

It's an oxford, but the slight brogueing and the floating medallion sort of make it hard to place in the formality hierarchy. Also, am I right in assuming Manton will hate the floating medallion?
Fred

 

[fritzl]



What about something like the C&J Edgware?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

http://www.crockettandjones.com/Product/Edgware-Darkbrown
It's an oxford, but the slight brogueing and the floating medallion sort of make it hard to place in the formality hierarchy. Also, am I right in assuming Manton will hate the floating medallion?
Fred

it's in the middle. here factors the colour, single sole and material.

 

[DressedWell]

A black oxford is a formal shoe that can be worn black tie and for formal occasions.

Everything else is less formal.

 

[fritzl]



A black oxford is a formal shoe that can be worn black tie and for formal occasions.

Everything else is less formal.

bravo

 

[Shikar]

Barefoot is least formal.

Regards.

 

[Threadbearer]



Barefoot is least formal.

Then this must be a close second.

 

[HEPennypacker]



Then this must be a close second.

I know someone who wears those (multiple pairs) exclusively. He wears the black pair to weddings...

 

[Jermyn]



Wholecuts to me are newfangled and don't belong on any list, much less feet. Definitely not the dressiest shoe because they are too untraditional.

+ a gazillion

I've always found the opposite to be the case.
My opera pumps are a type of wholecut. It doesn't get more formal than that.

Here is Simon Crompton of Permanent Style's list, in order from most to least formal: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2008/08/sliding-scale-of-formality.html

Shoes Trousers

Wholecut Oxfords - Worsted wool

Toecap Oxfords (quarter brogues) - Worsted wool/linen or cotton

Monk-front shoes - Worsted wool

Half-brogues - Worsted wool/linen or cotton

Derbys (Bluchers) - Flannel/worsted/cords or khakis

Smart slip-ons (Norwegian split-toe) - Worsted/cords or khakis

Full brogues (wingtips) - Flannel/cords

Suede/Nubuck - Anything but worsted

Deck shoes - Cords or khakis/jeans

Driving shoes - Khakis/jeans


I don't necessarily agree with all of it (I wear brown suede half brogues with a navy suit and think it looks great) but broadly it seems right, at least in London.

 

[TheWraith]

Yes, I think it is broadly correct, Jermyn.

 

[fritzl]



I've always found the opposite to be the case.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

My opera pumps are a type of wholecut. It doesn't get more formal than that.
Here is Simon Crompton of Permanent Style's list, in order from most to least formal: http://www.permanentstyle.co.uk/2008/08/sliding-scale-of-formality.html
Shoes Trousers
Wholecut Oxfords - Worsted wool
Toecap Oxfords (quarter brogues) - Worsted wool/linen or cotton
Monk-front shoes - Worsted wool
Half-brogues - Worsted wool/linen or cotton
Derbys (Bluchers) - Flannel/worsted/cords or khakis
Smart slip-ons (Norwegian split-toe) - Worsted/cords or khakis
Full brogues (wingtips) - Flannel/cords
Suede/Nubuck - Anything but worsted
Deck shoes - Cords or khakis/jeans
Driving shoes - Khakis/jeans
I don't necessarily agree with all of it (I wear brown suede half brogues with a navy suit and think it looks great) but broadly it seems right, at least in London.

reread what manton wrote.

tbh, i don't give a **** what SC does. no offense.

 

[Jermyn]



reread what manton wrote.

Manton wrote that he considered wholecuts to be 'newfangled' and untraditional.
I disagree because one of the most formal and long established of shoes, the opera pump, is a wholecut.
The lack of embelishment (in this case stitching) is what gives the shoe its formality.

tbh, i don't give a **** what SC does. no offense.

A needless lowering of the tone.

 

[fritzl]



Manton wrote

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

that he considered wholecuts to be 'newfangled' and untraditional.
I disagree because one of the most formal and long established of shoes, the opera pump, is a wholecut.
The lack of embelishment (in this case stitching) is what gives the shoe its formality.
A needless lowering of the tone.

great

 

[msulinski]

Manton wrote that he considered wholecuts to be 'newfangled' and untraditional.
I disagree because one of the most formal and long established of shoes, the opera pump, is a wholecut.
The lack of embelishment (in this case stitching) is what gives the shoe its formality.
A needless lowering of the tone.

Wholecuts may resemble an opera pump to some degree, but neither has history or tradition in the business world. If you are referring to evening wear, then I think that an opera pump is the most formal shoe. I still wouldn't know where a wholecut fits in.