Shoe formality hierarchy

[Manton]

The opera pump is a slipper without laces, it's a completely different animal. The traitional black tie lace-up shoe is not a whole-cut, it has vamp seam but no toe-cap:

http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/catalo...sshoes/Oxfords/Oxfordplain/plain_oxford_1.htm

 

[Jdroberto]

So is it correct to say that a whiskey colored longwing is almost always too casual to wear with a suit?

New to the forum and really enjoying it so far. Wish I had checked it out before I made my recent suit purchase.

 

[fritzl]



So is it correct to say that a whiskey colored longwing is almost always too casual to wear with a suit?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

New to the forum and really enjoying it so far. Wish I had checked it out before I made my recent suit purchase

.

depends on the fabric.

 

[Corso]

Yes, it depends on the fabric and probably color as well, a mid grey suit should work with a whiskey longwing in my opinion

 

[Article 26]

Is this a real room or have I awoken, in the abyss of reality, to a violent nightmare?

 

[Aquafortis]




mebbe, with country suits.

Curious how EG Audley's would be classified? Plain toe, high strap with a Balmoral line. To me, definitely a reasonable pairing with a worsted suit.

 

[suitntieguy]

Curious how EG Audley's would be classified? Plain toe, high strap with a Balmoral line. To me, definitely a reasonable pairing with a worsted suit.

View attachment 1015914

I would wear this with a suit without giving it a second thought.

I live in Chicago and work in one of the most conservative business dress environments one can find. I wear a suit almost everyday. For the record, when it really matters, I wear a navy suit, white shirt and black plain toes. Period. For all other days (ie not a first time big client meeting or with significant influencers) I wear the gambit of balmorals- all colors/styles

I have no issue wearing a brown plain cap toe or walnut Wing tips.
I also wear a number of shell cordovan with suits.
I have even wore suede with a flannel suit. Monks too.
However, I will never wear a blutcher with a suit.

Bottom line is black plain toes are at the top
And then there is a range of balmorals that will work with suits depending on color, fabric, and occasion.
Then there is a line that should not be crossed. Blutchers are that line.

 

[txm22]

n.
Then there is a line that should not be crossed. Blutchers are that line.

I always find these types of statements way too sweeping. I think a sleek two/three eyelet derby is plenty appropriate for wear with suits in a conservative business dress environment, arguably more so than many balmoral shoes (e.g., light browns, medallion toes, some brogues, etc.). Hell, Sean Connery pulled it off as Bond (http://www.bondsuits.com/2-eyelet-derby/).

Formality of the shoe depends on the shoe itself more so than the category of shoe (i.e., not all cap toe bals will be more suit-appropriate than all plain toe derbies).

Anyway, just my 2 cents.

 

[Aquafortis]

I would wear this with a suit without giving it a second thought.

I live in Chicago and work in one of the most conservative business dress environments one can find. I wear a suit almost everyday. For the record, when it really matters, I wear a navy suit, white shirt and black plain toes. Period. For all other days (ie not a first time big client meeting or with significant influencers) I wear the gambit of balmorals- all colors/styles

I have no issue wearing a brown plain cap toe or walnut Wing tips.
I also wear a number of shell cordovan with suits.
I have even wore suede with a flannel suit. Monks too.
However, I will never wear a blutcher with a suit.

Bottom line is black plain toes are at the top
And then there is a range of balmorals that will work with suits depending on color, fabric, and occasion.
Then there is a line that should not be crossed. Blutchers are that line.

I completely agree with you regarding pairing the EG Audley with suits. That was my take and recently picked up a pair. Without a doubt, they are the most elegant shoes I own. Although I work in an environment that absolutely is not a conservative business dress setting (and BTW don't even own any black dress shoes because my work attire does not require it. I personally consider dark brown to be richer and more elegant than black anyway). And I would not hesitate to wear my Audley's with the finest suits I own (Cesare Attolini, Super 210's), for occasions when I either choose or that warrant more formal attire. However, my interpretation of formality is not strictly defined by conservative business dress norms.

It is clear that your work social context is quite different, and your personal "rules" about shoe pairings with suits reflects your experience in that culture and setting. Totally understandable and appropriate.

I came across this relevant piece from the Parisian Gentleman that I found to be an interesting commentary on how the dynamic between the social/business contexts that we function in have continually evolved and defined/redefined the contemporary norms of the and conventions of "formality". It is also a nice commentary on the concepts of formality vs. elegance.

https://parisiangentleman.co.uk/2014/10/21/shoes-and-sartorial-rules-the-time-and-the-place/