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- brandAldentagged by SYSTEM, 7/31/11
- itemAlden Black Balmoral Shell Cordovan Cap Toe Oxfordtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toetagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Chukkatagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwingtagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Indy Boot 405tagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Ravello Shell Long Wing Bluchertagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Sand Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boottagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- itemAlden Snuff Suede Flex-Welt Chukka Boottagged by LA Guy, 1/23/15
- categoryFootweartagged by SYSTEM, 7/20/11More
- topicShell Cordovantagged by violethour1951, 5/6/13
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***The official Alden thread *** Share enthusiasm, reviews, sizing, advice, and photos. - Page 4757post #71341 of 1224161/20/14 at 11:52ampost #71342 of 1224161/20/14 at 11:56ampost #71343 of 1224161/20/14 at 11:57amQuote:Quote:Quote:Quote:Originally Posted by mdubs
Steve, I unfortunately do not have much advice to give you here. I would probably minimize the product used. It would be a shame if it was a cover up sham from the factory. Maybe a little tan paste wax??
I personally would avoid sending back to Alden, as recent experience shoes that they will come back nearly black... :-)
-MikeQuote:Originally Posted by sqroot3
weird...when i apply reno, the lighter-colored areas (usually the creases) seem to absorb the reno more, and after application, usually do look darker than the rest of the shoe. this is noticeable even with #8, and the pattern looks similar to what your left shoe looks like.. you think the problem could possibly be exacerbated by reno building up in the creases?Quote:Quote:
Gentlemen-Thanks for your comments and suggestions. I think I will just keep buffing this pair and try to get more Patina going all over them. For what It's worth I've used very, very, very little Reno on them. The majority of the darkening has come from buffing with a brush. To be honest I think a little of it has come from a new expensive horsehair brush I used that may have a little residue from being made. I agree that sending to Alden would likely result in a much darker shoe. I've learned a lot about what to look for in hides when getting a pair of cordovan. I'm convinced there were some type of issue with them from Alden that was covered up, but real hard to see until wearing them and getting creases. I feel with enough brushing it will even out somewhat. Ive seen a lot of SF members with whiskey that looks similar in color to the dark part of my shoes, I can live with that.
Hope everybody is having a great Monday...I've seen some great shoes over the weekend and today. Rather doing a bunch of posts I will say congrats to all of you!
Stevepost #71344 of 1224161/20/14 at 11:57ampost #71345 of 1224161/20/14 at 11:58ampost #71346 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:00pmpost #71347 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:03pmQuote:
Exactly what I was thinking. I've got a little darkening in my whiskey LWB's but because I wear it as a more casual shoe, I really don't mind it. For some reason I'm not typically a fan of shortwings, but this shoe is beautiful. I really hopes it works out for the OP.post #71348 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:05pmQuote:Originally Posted by mtc2000
Alden apply a layer of overcoat glazing on most of their Cordovan shoes to give that instant out-of-the-box-shine. Vigorous brushing will wear out the overcoat glazing prematurely. Excessive use of solvent based products like Saphir Cordovan cream and Renovateur will dissolve the overcoat at various degrees.
Most likely, the sticky gummy thing that you got was the dissolved glazing.
Once the overcoat glazing is removed, the bare Cordovan is exposed. Renovateur darkens light color bare Cordovan slightly. I think that's what you are experiencing.
An appropriate analogy is in wood finishes. Some woodworkers put clear acrylic lacquer to get that easy brilliant shinny finish, while others use oil/wax for polishing.
Regretfully, I think you either leave the shoes as-is or send the shoes back to Alden. They will dye the shoes to a darker hue, and reapply the overcoat glazing.
mtc2000-You are likely correct. I will say the Reno only got used after things started getting darker. The initial reason any of this happened is I wore a few times and the typical hazing occurred along the creases. I used a deer bone (which has oils in it) and a brush along with a clean cotton t-shirt and that's it. I think the deer bone oils had a lot to do with the darkening, and the brush too. Like I said I've learned a lot about lighter colored shell. Whats weird is this has not occurred on my whiskey NST which I used the deer bone and brush on. I have dedicated brushes for each color to try and avoid these issues.
Stevepost #71349 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:20pmpost #71350 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:21pmQuote:
Thanks so much! I notice that the Indy boots at Trunk and The Next Door are E width only. Does this crosswalk to the US D width, or is this a true E width? Is the European foot on average wider than the US foot?post #71351 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:21pmpost #71352 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:24pm
Is it just me or has this thread established a precedent that stipulates Reno should be used to try and remedy everything? As a result, it will often be applied excessively when the wearer wants to "fix" an issue with the finish.post #71353 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:29pmQuote:
Are you talking about Renomat or Renovateur? The first is a pretty heavy duty cleaner that should only be used if you want to strip everything. The second is a cleaner/polisher/mild conditioner. I'd never use Renomat to try to fix minor issues with the finish.post #71354 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:31pm^^ Did we clarify if we are talking about Reno-mat or Rennovateur? I think it needs to be specified in this case. Is it automatically assumed here that Reno = rennovateur?
Edit: anrobit beat me to the question.post #71355 of 1224161/20/14 at 12:31pmQuote:
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