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Making my own pants: A pictorial

JapanAlex01

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Originally Posted by dieworkwear
Really, really educational, Jeffery. As always, I feel like your posts are as illuminating for non-tailors as they are for tailors. I always walk away from your posts feeling like I have a better eye for details. Thanks again.

+1
 

wmb

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makes one appreciate the amount of work that goes into a pair of trousers!
 

Sanguis Mortuum

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Excellent first attempt. Im halfway through making a pair myself, done all the pockets and half the fly but I think I screwed up the fly a bit so I need to rip it apart and try again
baldy[1].gif
 

deveandepot1

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emptym

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Originally Posted by jefferyd
Fine. Sigh.




The waist should slope slightly downward from back to front- here it juts upward at A and is tight around the crotch. Dropping the front waist and reducing the waist at center front as shown will correct this. This, and the scooping at a will help with the moose knuckle.

The seat is very tight at B and the side seam shoots back at C. This is a multi-point correction.

The waist dips at D and there is excess and pulling at E. All of these things are related.





The seat seam must be scooped out to more accurately match the shape of the seat at E, and the inseam should be straightened as this curve is too extreme for any cloth, cotton in particular. More curve = more ironwork necessary. Since the seat has been reduced at E it will have to be increased somewhere. Pivoting forward at B will add the necessary width, and by carrying this line up, will help correct the side seam issue. D is raised a bit to correct the dipping waistline and pivoted forward when the seat is scooped out. What has been lost at points A, D and C on the front (which has been reduced to help the side seam issue) is added at C on the back. Since the back thigh has been increased, we will remove a bit off the front at a


Excellent. Thank you very much.
 

Icehawk

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Originally Posted by dieworkwear
Really, really educational, Jeffery. As always, I feel like your posts are as illuminating for non-tailors as they are for tailors. I always walk away from your posts feeling like I have a better eye for details. Thanks again.

Ditto, I appreciate you taking the time to explain even though you are mostly correct in that I don't understand
biggrin.gif
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by pvrhye
Call me crazy, but would it help to start tailoring with a gridded patterns like tattersall or something? It increases the chance of the product looking like hell, but the grid might be handy for really mapping what went wrong and where.

Yes. Absolutely.
 

jefferyd

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Originally Posted by Despos
Good blue pencil skills.

Ha- thanks
wink.gif


You know, we used to be tested on blue pencil before admission to the IACDE. The good old days....
laugh.gif
 

inlandisland

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Last night I spent some time starting to adapt my paper pattern according to the changes that JefferyD suggested... Not done yet, but I think I can see in my minds eye how it will help with the pulling at the hips and some of the twisting at the back.

The point about working with a patterend fabric is something I've thought about - I just wanted to have one or two pairs done in a solid so that I would be more competent when working with a plaid or check and not completely waste my effort and fabric.

Taking the pictures wasn't all that time consuming, so I'll probably do something similar to see where I can improve, but it will likely be quite a while before I have anything to show off again.
 

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