New Raphael suit (not mine)

Only the right leg left to go. Vox, don't guess the next letter wrong.

Originally Posted by furo

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So you're telling me the awkward jutting in > < marks at his waist are a stylitic preference of his?

All I can say is that it doesn't appear wrong to me--but then, an underlying premise of my assessment has always been that the cut of the suit is not to my own personal taste to begin with. Obviously, I choose something very different stylistically for myself. From what I've seen, non-drape, military-inspired suits often have waist profiles that looks more > < than ) ( . However, in this case, it is quite possible that the effect is exaggerated in the Bergdorf photo due to perspective, stance, lighting, etc. If you look at the fitting photo I posted, the pinching in appears much reduced.

I think it's fair to say that when I critique things on the forum for fit, I account for two things: (1) there are many different styles and cuts that I might not personally prefer, but which aren't objectively bad, and (2) movement and stance can cause what appear to be irregularities in fit, but which really aren't.

Originally Posted by furo

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I'm looking at this from the perpective of the analyzing you did in the Reeves bespoke thread wrt shoulder divots too - because this waist issue here seems almost as prominent.

I disagree. I don't think divots or sleeve torquing could possibly be right or stylistically preferable. They don't pass either of the two considerations above that I try to regularly apply: (1) nobody, not even the maker or the client, was willing to state that the irregularities were matters of style, and (2) the irregularities were not subtle and appeared in every photo in one form or another.

Originally Posted by Baron

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FWIW, the waist looks fine in the fitting picture. I think most of us were willing to say that the issues were due to the pose or picture, but it's frustrating that Foo wouldn't acknowledge it in the first place.

Keep in mind that this is a suit I have seen numerous times in person. Thus, it is entirely possible that what you see as a problem in one photo simply doesn't strike me the same way.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I'm wearing a DeBoise suit in a windowpane today, with a jacket that is a bit shorter and that has more open quarters than my older numbers:



I don't know, Vox. I like your older stuff better. The shorter length works, but I think something is wonky with the quarters. I can't speak to their technical correctness, but it looks like they are pulling away starting too close to your middle button.

Originally Posted by Baron

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I do think the trousers in TR's suit are too low waisted. I have this problem on one of my favorite RTW suits. I think if and when I go bespoke I'll get pants waisted at my navel. I hate seeing shirt below the button of a closed jacket.

My suit pants are pretty similar in fit to slimmer fitting incotex trousers. I don't know if this is "incorrect" for a business suit, but I like it. I grew up in the decades of baggy pants. This is my revolt to that trend as my mother predicted would happen when I was 16.

Not sure if the trousers are low waisted as cut or whether they were sitting a little lower in the pic due to my failure to adjust them, as I could have pulled them up easily another inch. The waist is about 1/2 inch too big, so it's likely they slipped from my natural waist line prior to the photo. My torso is relatively long compared to my legs, as I have a short inseam. I definitely would not want the inseam to be any longer.

My taste might come full circle when I'm older where I'd be getting trousers cut more like AP, and maybe even pleats! I'll check back in in about 20 years.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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I don't know, Vox. I like your older stuff better. The shorter length works, but I think something is wonky with the quarters. I can't speak to their technical correctness, but it looks like they are pulling away starting too close to your middle button.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I'm wearing a DeBoise suit in a windowpane today, with a jacket that is a bit shorter and that has more open quarters than my older numbers

My only question is, "When is this ticket pocket fad gonna end?"

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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My suit pants are pretty similar in fit to slimmer fitting incotex trousers. I don't know if this is "incorrect" for a business suit, but I like it. I grew up in the decades of baggy pants. This is my revolt to that trend as my mother predicted would happen when I was 16.

Not sure if the trousers are low waisted as cut or whether they were sitting a little lower in the pic due to my failure to adjust them, as I could have pulled them up easily another inch. The waist is about 1/2 inch too big, so it's likely they slipped from my natural waist line prior to the photo. My torso is relatively long compared to my legs, as I have a short inseam. I definitely would not want the inseam to be any longer.

My taste might come full circle when I'm older where I'd be getting trousers cut more like AP, and maybe even pleats! I'll check back in in about 20 years.

Teddie, I think your suit looks great.

Originally Posted by Mr. Moo

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Teddie, I think your suit looks great.

why do you want him to burn the suit?

Originally Posted by George

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Do you always have such a high notch?

I do, but I also think the height of the notch is exagerrated by the camera angle.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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why do you want him to burn the suit?

Originally Posted by zbromer

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My only question is, "When is this ticket pocket fad gonna end?"

For me, it dies when I die, I suppose.

- M

Originally Posted by Manton

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I do

Why? Is there a reason other than you find it stylistically appealing?

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Anyway, the way that the quarters fall (use the windowpane to see how its configured) will be more what jefferyd and Despos would expect compared to Nay's Breanish.

I dunno, looks to me like the same issue is present (not that I care). FWIW, I like this one better than I like my own Steeds. Should not have a ticket pocket, though, and I would spread the front buttons out a little more. I would also like to see the shoulder droop a bit more. Is the seam not pressed open?

Oh, and jeffryd, if you are still tuned in, I checked my own striped coats, and just as you say, the stripes are all perpindicular to the ground despite the open quarters and my own indifference/ignorance.

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

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Why? Is there a reason other than you find it stylistically appealing?

Do I need one?

FWIW, that is a lower notch than I get from Solito. I don't think I ever had a notch conversation with Raphael, so either he intuited that I wanted a high notch or else he just decided on his own that it would look better on me.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Do I need one?

No, I didn't mean the question in an accusatory fashion. I was just curious how you arrived at that choice.