A new approach to bespoke patterns- seeking beta testers

[jefferyd]

I'm working on a project and need some help.

For those who don't know who I am, I have worked in the RTW and MTM tailored clothing industry for about 25 years, running pattern design, quality and manufacturing at a number of companies in Canada, the US and Mexico. I also do bespoke tailoring, mostly as a hobby, which I started learning around age seven or eight.

I wrote about this project in more detail on my blog here , but in short, we are developing an algorithm to draft suit and shirt patterns from body measurements, the same way a bespoke cutter would draft (better, in fact). The company, of which I am a partner, is based in Amsterdam so our first round will be for people located around that location. Anybody else who is interested in participating is encouraged to contact us as well as we will be developing a travel schedule based on interest; first Europe, and then soon in the US and maybe Canada (while they are in the Netherlands, I divide my time between Rochester, NY and Montreal, QC).

Here's the offer- get measured by one of our people and get a MTM suit and or shirt, made in Europe, at a deeply discounted price. You must consent to be photographed as we are also testing various forms of body scanning and measuring technology; also, to control for variables, the cloth is limited to a few select colors of one suit quality. We expect that some people will break our system; that is exactly what we are hoping for, because every time it breaks down, we build it back up stronger.

I'm happy to answer questions about the process and our testing, and to sign up contact peter at tailoredby dot eu

Pictures of some of the very first testers; very time we make a garment we improve the algorithm.




All the best,
Jeffery

 

[moltoelegante]

Interesting but I find it slightly puzzling that you are charging people for these 'experiments' which you admit can and will go wrong.

 

[Despos]

What they want to do is fit as many body types as possible to gather data to build the algorithm. It’s the technology they want to improve. If the body type and pattern modification/manipulation isn’t in the system they will program it to expand their profiles. The experimenting is the limits/limitations in the technology not the garment.

 

[circumspice]

Interesting but I find it slightly puzzling that you are charging people for these 'experiments' which you admit can and will go wrong.

As opposed to all those internet MTM places that promise truly custom suits and deliver what? Or all those flawless bespoke experiences people have had here?

There are probably some folks that know RTW isn't workable for them, and experimenting at prices below bespoke may make sense, especially if they haven't been delighted with MTM

 

[emptym]

I'd be interested. I like experiments.

 

[Spaghettimatt]

I’m intrigued. What’s the house style and what fabrics are available?

 

[paulraphael]

Interested. And I'm definitely an outlier. Any word on prices?

 

[jefferyd]

Interesting but I find it slightly puzzling that you are charging people for these 'experiments' which you admit can and will go wrong.

We are a small company and making garments cost us money. Most (hopefully all) people will walk away from this with a suit that fits better than regular MTM. You may have noticed that the bigger guy was wearing a basted shell- when we encounter someone we think is going to be difficult, we do a basted fitting first in scrap fabric so it is unlikely anyone will end up with a bad garment, and if that were to happen, we would certainly not charge them for it.

What they want to do is fit as many body types as possible to gather data to build the algorithm. It’s the technology they want to improve. If the body type and pattern modification/manipulation isn’t in the system they will program it to expand their profiles. The experimenting is the limits/limitations in the technology not the garment.

Exactly.

As opposed to all those internet MTM places that promise truly custom suits and deliver what? Or all those flawless bespoke experiences people have had here?

There are probably some folks that know RTW isn't workable for them, and experimenting at prices below bespoke may make sense, especially if they haven't been delighted with MTM

Our prices right now will be significantly below MTM, let alone bespoke. We're just trying not to go too much into the red on this. And you are right; how many times have I seen terrible garments and thought "there has to be a better way"...

I’m intrigued. What’s the house style and what fabrics are available?

There is no house style. Part of the point of this is to be able to draft anything from a soft, neapolitan-type garment to a high-shouldered Sciamat-type rope. Contact Peter at tailoredby dot eu and he will show you the fabrics available.

Interested. And I'm definitely an outlier. Any word on prices?

Depends on location because of duty, shipping, travel etc. Contact Peter at tailored dot eu for specific pricing.

 

[Encathol Epistemia]

This is intriguing and I imagine that there will be some interestingly weird misfires. Even at their bests, computers seem to react funnily to even the most mundane natural phenomenon.. (Anybody who has run a text through multiple machine translations for a laugh will appreciate this... *looks around* ...oh, just me then)

I might well like to participate and I have just the kind of ungainly, clumsy physical construction that I imagine would be useful to subject the system to. My *achem* curves might prove to be an interesting exercise for the algorithm, mercy knows I certainly could do with more exercise, and my shoulders, which have made two tailors almost incredulous at their squareness and are low on the right, could be another useful challenge to its capabilities.

I don't plan on visiting Amsterdam in the foreseeable future, but if any of the responsible parties find themselves in Philadelphia or visiting New York, perhaps I'd have a go.

I'll be curious as to the results of the effort, in any case.

 

[Daraven]

Based in The Hague, definitely interested to hear more details, maybe via PM?

EDIT: Never-mind, I saw the email address you posted. I'll go directly through that.

I am not sure if I qualify as some body type that could break your system though. That being said, tall, very slim build and for sure highly deformed from office/laboratory work... So maybe that helps.

 

[othertravel]

I'm interested. To clarify, this is a separate project from your 'day job', correct?

 

[jefferyd]

I don't plan on visiting Amsterdam in the foreseeable future, but if any of the responsible parties find themselves in Philadelphia or visiting New York, perhaps I'd have a go.

Please reach out to Peter as we have a number of interested parties in NY- he's gathering a list of names and will advise people once we are ready to do NY.

I'm interested. To clarify, this is a separate project from your 'day job', correct?

It is for now. We (at LMAG) are getting clobbered by the Tom Jameses of the world who send people out into offices without tryon garments and work only off measurements. Unfortunately for them first garment is often a kill, but they make the customer understand that it is an iterative process and basically the first garment acts as kind of a tryon. We want a better solution so when I was approached by the team in Amsterdam I agreed to work with them. Peter may make a trip to New York to fit people, but I think I would prefer to do the US in stage 2, where I bring the technology onboard at my day job and make it available through all divisions- Sam, HF and Culturata Custom as well as our shirts.

 

[othertravel]

Please reach out to Peter as we have a number of interested parties in NY- he's gathering a list of names and will advise people once we are ready to do NY.



It is for now. We (at LMAG) are getting clobbered by the Tom Jameses of the world who send people out into offices without tryon garments and work only off measurements. Unfortunately for them first garment is often a kill, but they make the customer understand that it is an iterative process and basically the first garment acts as kind of a tryon. We want a better solution so when I was approached by the team in Amsterdam I agreed to work with them. Peter may make a trip to New York to fit people, but I think I would prefer to do the US in stage 2, where I bring the technology onboard at my day job and make it available through all divisions- Sam, HF and Culturata Custom as well as our shirts.

This is great to hear. I sent my info to Peter about meeting in Montreal. I'm also a big supporter of Samuelsohn, and appreciate the work you're doing there.

 

[LA Guy]

Interesting but I find it slightly puzzling that you are charging people for these 'experiments' which you admit can and will go wrong.

If there is anyone on the forum whose expertise and integrity I would vouch for in this field, it's @jefferyd - he is a bespoke tailor with extensive experience in RTW as well, and we've seen he has been around the industry as well as the forum for a very long time, has personally tried some MTM outfits, understands the problems with grading, etc...

No one can be 100% certain of anything, but if I were a betting man, this is one gamble that I'd make. This as someone who has been on the forum since close to day 1 (about a month out).

 

[Daraven]

Reached out to Peter but still haven't heard back from him since giving him my phone number. Let's see, super interested in this project!