Turnback Cuffs on Dress Shirts?

Originally Posted by Metlin

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Mustapha, I absolutely love your shirts!

Thanks. I think of myself as a creative type. These styles are not for the Everyman.






Here is a shot of some more shirts in the Trend shop, awaiting pickup. Therse aren't mine.






Ladies shirts too.

Originally Posted by josepidal

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Thread resurrect... how might these cuffs look with a button down collar? Has anyone ever tried that combination?

This is a little different but it's a button down with white lining inside the cuff and white lining on the inside of the collar. Good for casual.







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www.jamesvii.com

So, I've been thinking of getting turnback cuffs on some of my shirts.

Is it considered a style faux paux to have turnback cuffs on French cuff shirts? Especially given that FCs are considered formal, and turnback cuffs are considered informal. I've seen several people do it, but then again, I've also seen several people wear black suits.

What do folks here think?

Originally Posted by Metlin

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So, I've been thinking of getting turnback cuffs on some of my shirts. Is it considered a style faux paux to have turnback cuffs on French cuff shirts? Especially given that FCs are considered formal, and turnback cuffs are considered informal. I've seen several people do it, but then again, I've also seen several people wear black suits. What do folks here think?
Do you mean those James Bond cuffs? If so, I never liked them because they look like the wearer wants to be a prepackaged James Bond. It's a good thing Inspector Gadget didn't have a special type of shirt cuff.

I don't much care for them, to me they almost look like something you would see on a womens blouse or something.

Originally Posted by bowtielover

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I don't much care for them, to me they almost look like something you would see on a womens blouse or something.
Ha!

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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Do you mean those James Bond cuffs? If so, I never liked them because they look like the wearer wants to be a prepackaged James Bond. It's a good thing Inspector Gadget didn't have a special type of shirt cuff.
Yeah, the old Bond(s) used to wear them (I don't think I've seen the style on any of the newer ones). I've seen some people pull them off really well, while on others, it looks like they're trying too hard. That said, I really do like Mustapha's shirts here -- not something I'd try, but interesting nevertheless.

To quote another SF'er...

I just puked in my mouth!

Originally Posted by Roikins

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Barba:

Hey! That's my shirt!

Resurrect.

The problem I see with the turnbacks posted here is that they flare out too much at the bottom, and the gap between the turbacked portions around the buttons is too large... I wonder if they would look better maybe if the turnback was sewn onto the underlying cuff to make a tight, flush look that wasn't as gaudy?

For example, I like how the one below hugs a little tighter and doesn't flare much (though it's still too loose and frumply)... but that huge gap around the buttons looks weird in my opinion- the turbacked portion should be brought in a little closer. Also, I would suggest the whole cuff be longer, since I see a serious problem of the suit cuff getting stuck behind the turback as Bond lowers his arm here.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

Originally Posted by Svenn

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Resurrect.

The problem I see with the turnbacks posted here is that they flare out too much at the bottom, and the gap between the turbacked portions around the buttons is too large... I wonder if they would look better maybe if the turnback was sewn onto the underlying cuff to make a tight, flush look that wasn't as gaudy?

For example, I like how the one below hugs a little tighter and doesn't flare much (though it's still too loose and frumply)... but that huge gap around the buttons looks weird in my opinion- the turbacked portion should be brought in a little closer. Also, I would suggest the whole cuff be longer, since I see a serious problem of the suit cuff getting stuck behind the turback as Bond lowers his arm here.

Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

Hey, that's my screen cap! This to me is a perfect example of a cocktail cuff. But if that cuff was a collar, are you saying that you would prefer less spread? By that way, that is Simon Templar, not James Bond. I like how not only the shirt has turnback cuffs but the suit does too. Because the cuff has less flair as you mentioned, the jacket sleeve is less likely to get caught on the cuff. And the cuff has rounded corners, which are a big help. I have the problem with my jacket getting caught on the shirt cuff with normal square-cut double cuffs. I see many online shirt makers that make cocktail cuffs with square corners, which will always have this problem. That shirt is probably made by Frank Foster. The Turnbull & Asser cuffs have a longer turnback. When designing my cocktail cuffs for my shirts from Modern Tailor I based my design mostly on the cuff pictured here. You can see how mine turned out here:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=211919

^I like the ones in your link, i'm glad to find a fellow admirer But indeed, the ones above and the ones in your link seem to have too much 'spread' (by which, yes, i mean the same thing as a collar's spread- i.e. the area between the two ends of the foldback is too big) ...I'd want the turnbacked portion to edge very closely to the buttons, i.e. be more narrow. By doing it that way, I think it would look less ostentatious. I would also like the whole turnbacked portion to be more pressed closely to the barrel cuff beneath, to make it even more subtle. I like how this one has a button to keep it fused like that:




I also note that your turnbacks don't meet evenly at the top of the cuff- there seems to be some overlap. To illustrate how I'd want my turnbacks to look, I edited another Bond one below (mine's on the right):

Originally Posted by Svenn

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I also note that your turnbacks don't meet evenly at the top of the cuff- there seems to be some overlap. To illustrate how I'd want my turnbacks to look, I edited another Bond one below (mine's on the right):

Mine would meet at the top, it's just that they need to be repressed.
You'd probably like Udeshi's cocktail cuffs, as they have a much narrower spread. Udeshi's cuffs look just like the one's Dick Van Dyke wore on the Dick Van Dyke Show:

same for me, but I think this only added for the designed. Same construction for basic french cuff.

turnback cuffs on shirts are not really a measure of formality, but style, just as they are o jackets. Chittleborough and Morgan on Saville Row like this style on jackets and it is part of their house style. They are less formal than French cuffs and do stand out bc you dont see the very often which is why they might seem inappropriate in a work setting where style and fashion is frowned upon and may seem unprofessional. I suppose that would depend on where you are in the hierarchy of the company though as I have noticed in bot law firms and banks that the higher up you go on the management heirarchy the more flamboyant the dress seems to be overall. James Bond made these sort of cuffs popular in the 60's ad 70's bc he wore them in many of his films. The terms casino cuff and cocktail cuff I have nit heard but most tailors in England call them turn back, a d in france and Italy they call them Milanese or neoplitan cuffs. Like Milanese buttonholes they did not originate in Milan, but Naples. The thread that was used was from a company called Milanese something so that was where the name came from