Some Sam Hober silk squares

Originally Posted by dopey

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They are not sheer and airy like the SG squares, and while the workmanship on the Hobers is superior, I prefer the SG fabric. But, per my other post, the Riva fabric does have nice uses.

The SGs that I have don't strike me as either sheer or airy, but they make so many that I'm sure that they must have all bases covered.

I'm also not sure I could go with the Hobers being superior in workmanship...they seem about the same, meaning the best I've ever seen except for the odd vintage piece or two.

There's also the price to consider: David's stuff is at a rather accessible point, probably because he doesn't have Rubinacci's vast overhead, slick advertising costs, or psychic projection powers.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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The SGs that I have don't strike me as either sheer or airy, but they make so many that I'm sure that they must have all bases covered. I'm also not sure I could go with the Hobers being superior in workmanship...they seem about the same, meaning the best I've ever seen except for the odd vintage piece or two.
Disagree on all counts. The corners on the Hober squares are better, and, in general, the roll is tighter and more finely stitched. Also, the SG fabrics I have - single colors with framed borders - are pretty sheer (I do have one solid with a colored roll edge which is not); the Riva voile's are very nice, but they are sturdier (have you gotten swatches in hand, yet?). But I have to admit SG makes a lot of stuff, so yours may be different.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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There's also the price to consider: David's stuff is at a rather accessible point, probably because he doesn't have Rubinacci's vast overhead, slick advertising costs, or psychic projection powers. - B
True - Hober does outstanding work at any price and at his prices, he is a bargain.

Here are a few I bought last year. Entirely satisfied. Plan to order more.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I like those, too, like a hemstitched Givan's or SG.

There isn't a lot of variety of nice hem or spoke stitched hankies, though.

Compare that to the wealth of options for rolled edge Simonnot-Godard or the Riva Hobers, particularly when you get into colors and patterns in your cotton or linen squares.


- B

Fair enough. And those hankies are very attractive indeed. I try to stay clear of things that are that beautiful, but that's just me.

PS So hem stitching is orlo a giorno then -- thanks for the English lesson! I wonder if Hober could do it with their Riva fabrics. This really does seem like an almost empty micro-micro market niche, but of course its viability for Hober depends on a number of variables that are unknown to me. Even unknown unknowns, in fact.

I'm also beginning to think about those Simonnot Godard hankies with the cherubs you posted ... perhaps if they did them in white ... they remind me of a uniformed Carabinieri colonel I once saw wearing a tie with the corps' insignia very subtly woven in black on black ... no ... must resist dandy urges... argh!

Originally Posted by radicaldog

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I try to stay clear of things that are that beautiful, but that's just me.

... no ... must resist dandy urges... argh!

This might make a good pocket square for you:




- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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This might make a good pocket square for you:

- B

Indeed: I tend to think that there is only so much irony one can squeeze out of self-reference, yet somehow I did find myself briefly entertaining the thought of a temptation-themed pocket square.

Originally Posted by radicaldog

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Indeed: I tend to think that there is only so much irony one can squeeze out of self-reference, yet somehow I did find myself tempted by the thought of a temptation-themed pocket square.

FTFY

Originally Posted by LaoHu

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FTFY

Overkill!

Originally Posted by edmorel

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12 inches is an ideal size for me. Bigger than that and it does not really fit, smaller and it keeps falling in.

TMI.

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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I feel that the breast pocket of my Chan jackets are unnecessarily deep. My larger silk squares tend to slide into the pocket. To the extent they can accomodate, I will see if Chan can address this by making a shallower breast pocket. With that said, I find a 14"x14" linen square would work well, or in the case of silk, I need something larger, but then that adds to the bulk.

Patch pocket breast pockets, 12" -14" of any variety is perfectly fine.

Originally Posted by Mark from Plano

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I'm much more interested in getting a square properly sized. I have some squares that are a good size, but I really dislike an undersized square. I don't know what a good square size is off the top of my head, but maybe I'll go home and measure some of mine so then I'll know. The one Hober square I have is an amazing square, but the next ones I order I'm going to order slightly larger.

I think the handrolled/machinerolled debate is similar to the mechanical/quartz watch debate. Strikes me as an appreciation for the craftsmanship more than an issue of functionality.

You could stuff another smaller square in your breast pocket first in order to support a square which you think is too small.

Originally Posted by Sanguis Mortuum

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The one on the left is fantastic. What's the turn-around on these like now? I've always been put off from ordering by the talk of 6 month waits, but I also saw a post recently that he has almost cleared the back-log of orders?
Sanguis Mortuum, We make our pocket square orders usually within one day or sometimes 2 or 3 days. The mail takes roughly 3 weeks unless they are going express mail in which case it is closer to one week. We work 7 days a week but on Sundays we do not make pocket squares and the post office is closed so we do not mail orders. The 6 months that you heard about only refers to tie orders and that backlog is now a thing of the past. Voxsartoria, Thanks again for your kind words and especially the magic marker advice. Dopey, I like know that you are a steadfast supporter of pocket squares with borders so we will have to move foward on some new designs. The special challenge for us is that we would like to weave some borders which can be difficult. Also when you start to add borders you lose the ability to make bespoke pocket square orders in terms of different sizes. A few months ago I saw some very beautiful linens and cottons with borders but sadly they were already made into pocket squares. which ment that we would have to take apart them apart and remake them which is not a good idea.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria The functionality of pocket squares is pretty serious business. I can readily see why people would want to Occam out as many superfluous things about them as possible, and focus entirely on function. This is why there is a lot to be said for the simplicity of losing pocket squares altogether, or if not, pulling out the lining of your breast pocket and then being done with it. - B Actually, Ive seen some customers have their pockets lined with a colorful silk to pull out in precisely this manner.

Originally Posted by Mark from Plano

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I'm laughing because this topic actually came up today in my (final) fitting with MBC/DSF-MT.
For a second I read this as this topic came up in your morning meeting at the office.

Originally Posted by Sam Hober

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. . .
Dopey,

I like know that you are a steadfast supporter of pocket squares with borders so we will have to move foward on some new designs.

The special challenge for us is that we would like to weave some borders which can be difficult. Also when you start to add borders you lose the ability to make bespoke pocket square orders in terms of different sizes.

A few months ago I saw some very beautiful linens and cottons with borders but sadly they were already made into pocket squares. which ment that we would have to take apart them apart and remake them which is not a good idea.

I think you make what you make, and you do it very well. There is no reason you need to be all things to all people, especially if your focus is the ability to make bespoke squares to size and printed or woven borders is incompatible with that strength. Many people don't share my preferences and for them, you provide a fantastic option. And you make enough other things that I like to keep me happy, which is why you don't hear me complaining.

Originally Posted by dopey

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I think you make what you make, and you do it very well. There is no reason you need to be all things to all people, especially if your focus is the ability to make bespoke squares to size and printed or woven borders is incompatible with that strength. Many people don't share my preferences and for them, you provide a fantastic option. And you make enough other things that I like to keep me happy, which is why you don't hear me complaining.
Dopey, Actually, I have a long term project that we have been working on which may be just the answer. We have always been able to hand weave, hand dye and do simple fabric painting but doing our own printing and complex fabric painting is something that I have very much wanted to do for a long time. At first we will probably do something simple like solid borders and or contrast edges for pocket squares. As time goes on we would do both simple and more complex designs. To summarize we want to do luxury bespoke construction for neckwear and pocket squares and bespoke design work while keeping our prices in a good place. Side note: In the old days concise business plans were done on napkins at lunch now a short post on the internet is the new "napkin plan".

David-

I just picked this up:

http://www.samhober.com/store/carlo-...square-14.html

This is an impressive fabric, and I may have a problem with buying shirts in any other cloth.

Ed / Carl

I should have shared this with you this evening. Ed, thanks for the heads-up.

aiw.

I received a bunch of swell Riva samples a couple weeks ago (thank you, David.) These would make great squares.

Really, the edges on these Hobers are very handsome.

Most Kiton shirts, I believe, use Riva cloth...but of course, they cost the same or more as a bespoke shirt.


- B